MikeMolloy

Sorry to mess up your sale thread, but could you possibly measure the PCD of the mounting holes for this part? Thanks!

Calling fellow Birdmen! I am considering removing the Nova reverse box in an attempt to reduce the transmission harshness for normal road driving. The idea is to fit a Bailey Morris 2 piece TRT prop, and some sort of electric reverse. I looked at the stuff advertised by KitCarDirect - a starter motor and a sprocket that sandwiches between the diff nose and the prop UJ. Looks to me like there isn't room to mount this in the Caterham chassis. Can anyone who has a 'bird with electric reverse let me know how/where it is fitted and what parts are used? Pictures would be very welcome. Thanks!

Sorry to contaminate your sale thread, but what does a "VX Challenge" roll bar look like? Is it the triangular type most latterly seen on the Supersprint limited edition? Thanks.

Mmm, it's 25 years since I worked on the 5AS, but the MEMS code is 2 bytes, transmitted at 125 HZ. All codes are valid apart from 0x0000, 0xFFFF and 0xF0F0.

Passive is Bit 2 of EEOPTSA. Can you bit twiddle that with Testbook (or whatever your software is)?

Is there a plonk button on this forum somewhere? So you can "plonk" someone and make all their posts invisible to you? If not, can we have one please? Thanks.

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A rare opportunity to acquire one of only 5 (according to "The Magnificent Seven") factory built cars. Originally built for the NEC Motor Show in October 2000, I bought it in 2003 and have owned it for the last 15 years. Unfortunately, retirement and the need for "downsizing" means it needs to go to a new home. Spec as follows: 2000MY Imperial S3 chassis, fitted with a fuel injected Honda CBR1100XX motorcycle engine. Power approx. 160bhp at 9500rpm, but revs to 11000! Nova Racing dry sump, with uprated Pace DS pump and large Pace oil tank. 6 speed sequential gearbox plus Nova Racing reverse box. ZF LSD with rare 3.14 ratio (so it doesn't sit on the limiter all the way down the Hangar Straight), rebuilt by Road & Race Transmissions. Caterham/AP 4-pot brakes, vented discs and Pagid RS14 pads on the front. 13" Barnby mags (refurbished/crack tested by MB Engineering) with CR500s. Also KN Minators with AO21Rs as road tyres/wets. FIA bar (or Roadsport cage)/JPE aeroscreen/Tilletts/6 pt harness/Momo/Stack/Raceco Ttianium can/etc. Please note this is a track weapon, not a polisher's car, so the metallic black paintwork has plenty of battle scars. Mechanically it is in excellent shape. Buyer also gets first dibs on a BJ Minno trailer. Sold!

It's been a while, but if I recall correctly the CCT LED is the key to understanding the immobiliser status. With the ignition off and the vehicle immobilised, the LED should flash at 1 Hz. Press the unlock on the key fob and the LED should go off. Turn ignition ON and the LED should stay off. If it comes on and stays on constantly the system is still immobilised. Unfortunately "crank disable" is not implemented on the Caterham, so even if the system is immobilised the starter will still turn and the engine might fire for a couple of seconds, but the code will not have been sent to the MEMS so the engine will then die. Once again, if the LED is off, the immobiliser is unlocked and should have sent the correct signal to the MEMS. If this is the case I'd look for other potential issues.

Driveshaft is out and in the bench vice. I cleaned off all the gunk with brake cleaner, but under close inspection with a big magnifying glass you can still see the black goop seeping through the joint. Until I can find a proper solution (i.e. if it is possible to get a replacement can, and find a rebuild specialist) I have filled the lip of the can with JB weld. Admit I am ashamed at bodging it, but guess we'll see how long that lasts! Thanks for all the advice chaps.

Thanks for the info guys! Must admit I'm having trouble with the latest incarnation of the Blatchat search engine... Ian - sounds like you have good experience taking the CV cans apart. If you have photos of the innards I'd be very interested to see them! Will PM you with my email address. Richard - The can section is quite long before the boot clamp, and there was absolutely no evidence of the grease in that area. It was all stuffed in the De Dion ear - see photo. I think I might try sealing the can-to-hub interface with some sort of adhesive and see if that keeps it under control. Now, how do I achieve 200 lb ft????

I have recently set about recommissioning my car after entirely too many years sat on jacks in the garage gathering dust. A new fuel pump got it running, and the MOT man (a fellow Caterham owner) was lenient regarding the new emissions rules (bike engine = no cat, which should be a fail according the the rules as I read them...) However, I went for a decent blat yesterday and when I got home noted the inside of the nearside rear wheel rim was coated in black goop. A bit of effort with my brutal Machine Mart mains powered impact wrench had the hub nut off and the disc removed. The wheel bearing looked OK, but the grease is light brown colour, so not the culprit. The CV boot is completely intact, so it looks like the CV grease is getting hot and seeping out of the joint where the can is peened over the splined shaft. Once upon a time you used to be able to buy a repair kit (Ford P/N 1058427) which looked like this: http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z282/adrianthorp/photobucket-5701-1369128225774_zps0619cd79.jpg Apparently this part is now obsolete and unobtainable! As far as I am aware the shaft and CV joints (or "Tripoid joints if you prefer) are all fine, so I don't want to fork out 300 quid for a new shaft from Caterham (currently listed as "not in stock" anyway. Can anyone help please? Are there any local specialists (Midlands) you can recommend to replace whatever seals are needed to stop the grease slick? Thanks!

Am thinking about trying Acousta-fil in my large can Raceco in a last ditch attempt to get inside TD noise limits. Anybody done a silencer re-pack, gone from E-glass to Acousta-Fil and measured the difference? (Pref. with a proper dB meter, not just a phone app!) Thanks!

Alan - thanks very much for posting the pic. The wings look pretty good to me! (Certainly better than my stonechipped-to-death OE fibreglsss versions...) I note the kitcardirect site lists a couple of different options. Did you get the ones labelled "k Series", which I assume have the exhaust cut out on the LHS? It doesn't say in the description (although it does mention this feature in the blurb on the GRP version!)

When I originally got my car it was fitted with a Rover locking filler cap and a fuel neck that had been bodged on with self tappers. It went in the bin in favour of a simple Mocal fuel neck inside the boot. Recently I have been looking at the blanking plate I made to fill the hole in the rear panel and wondering if a nice "aero" filler cap would fit. Unfortunately the Rover neck was fitted by drilling 6 holes on a 93mm PCD (with a 70mm centre hole) and I can't find any commercial aero fillers that match this pattern. Can the POBC help please?

That's very interesting! I was also looking at the "kitcardirect" offering, as 400 quid is a lot more reasonable than the £1068 that Caterham are asking for the OE parts. Alan - can you confirm these are proper pre-preg parts? Do they actually weigh in at the claimed 700g? Thanks!

A standard lead acid battery (like the Banner) doesn't like deep discharge cycles. Once you have really flattened it no amount of trick "conditioning" chargers will ever recover it fully. The Absorbed Glass Mat type (Odyssey, Powervamp) do work well with a Battery Master Switch. If they are totally disconnected they hold their charge for ages (months!) But then of course your alarm is non functional.

A battery that's just been charged should be about 12.7V? 11V is way too low. If you switch the headlights on (engine not running) and the voltage plummets than the battery is definitely dead. An alarm will likely have a quiescent current drain sufficient to flatten a battery in a couple of weeks if not used and not charged. That won't do the battery any good either. Sounds like you need a trickle charger while the car is in storage.

Hi Nick. I note the reversing box is still listed (and "in stock!") on the Nova website: http://www.novaracing.co.uk/ProductHondaReversingGearbox.html £750+VAT though!

Subject close to my heart at the moment... One thing to consider - MSA demand minimum 1 litre catch tank for competition. Questions: How to plumb the tank, how to vent it and what to fill it with?

When you fit throttle bodies to a Caterham, how is the engine breathing normally re-plumbed? Any good links to tech articles on the subject? I am getting very confused with PCV valves and the like...