MikeMolloy

Dunno how far you consider "local", but I'd recommend Nigel Keats at Cougar Engineering near Redditch (01527 821675). About 45 miles from you? He's an excellent fabricator, engine builder and race prep man.

There is a 470 Ohm resistor built into the 5AS immobiliser. Use a normal LED.

Edit: Doh! Wrong size... Edited by - Fred Gassit on 27 Nov 2013 11:54:41

Is this actually for a bicycle or for the Caterham? If car, then this is a bit cheaper. Edited by - Fred Gassit on 17 Oct 2013 17:12:20

Do NOT attempt the above process in your "spangly new race suit!!! During my first attempt the bag sprang a leak and the foam soaked through my overalls, trousers and underpants, effectively glueing me into the car. Once you are fully bonded, then the reaction becomes heavily exothermic... 😳

Quoting Eugene: I just love the 'feeling' of aero without a bash hat You mean you like feeling like this? 😬 http://static.comicvine.com/uploads/original/13/135592/3246297-0024857941-pinhe.jpg

Beep? The 5as doesn't have a sounder... Try removing the battery from the fob, and then shorting the battery clip terminals with a paper clip or something. Then pop the battery back in and see if it works any better. The CCT LED is your friend. A constant 1 Hz flash means the unit is immobilised and won't start. Does the fob have Lucas 3TXA engraved on the back?

How about if it isn't a club event, and you are there on your own?

Question that has been bothering me: Consider that you drive to an event. What happens if you then have an unfortunate shunt that renders the car immobile? (I guess with Se7en events there is likely to be a good Samaritan with a trailer who could help out, but assuming this isn't the case...) Do the organisers just drag the wreckage to the entrance and dump it at the road side? I know my RAC cover does not provide for any vehicle recovery following an accident. Anybody thought out a viable contingency plan? Edited by - fred gassit on 24 Jul 2013 09:43:45

Torque is a measurable quantity on a dyno. Power is calculated from that. Torque is the force that accelerates the mass of the car, so it's the thing I use for comparison.

Oh, and would genuinely love to see a dyno curve for your R1 engine (or in fact any R1 BEC if you can find one...) IMO the R1 is a brilliant choice for a c.300kg single seater in the sub 1100cc hillclimb class. They go like stink.

I have a power curve at the wheels for a Caterham Blackbird (not my car, but the same fuel injected lump). Honda claimed 164bhp, but that's at the crank, with "ram air" yadda yadda. The dyno shows 132 bhp peak at the wheels. I took that curve and fed it into excel to create a torque-at-the-wheels vs engine rpm graph. Then factor in the gear ratios, final drive reduction and diff ratio, wheel diameter, and you get torque-at-the-wheels vs road speed for each gear. This basically allows you to see waht the optimum change up rpm for each gear is i.e where the torque in the lower gear drops below that available in the higher gear. Not unsurprisingly it reveals you should change up on the limiter in every gear! Then I searched for a nearest equivalent CEC dyno plot. The closest I could find was 1.8K-Series with 140 bhp at the wheels. Did the same calcs and overlaid the curves for 6th gear (both cars geared for around 130mph top end). It is obvious that the CEC torque spread is a lot wider than the BEC. That's what gives the perception that the CEC "has more torque". The peak isn't higher but the spread (of road speed) is wider. However the BEC has less weight so a drag race would be pretty even. Add a few corners and "add lightness" might well win! 😬

But that't what the "road speed" axis is for. It allows you to equate the differences in gearing and engine rpm. I dunno if you are just being obtuse or you really don't understand. (You seem like a smart bloke!) No more diverting the S800 thread though. PM me if you want to discuss further.

It's all about Q-factor,isn't it. The torque-at-the-wheels curves allow you to make a genuine apples-for-apples comparison between the two types of engine. The larger capacity engine has a the same peak torque at the wheels, but it is spread over a much greater road speed range. That's the BEC trade-off. You get lighter weight (10 or 15%?) but you have to keep the engine buzzing in a narrower region to extract the same performance. Kinda like an old fashioned 2 stroke bike.

As a long term BEC owner, I have had the "bike engines have no torque" argument a lot of times. I always cite the statement that low(er) torque at high(er) rpm means you can take advantage of gearing. However... (Back on the cubes thing...) If you take a dyno curve for something like a R300 (175bhp), factor in the gearing, and then plot a "road speed vs. torque at the wheels" graph, and then compare the with the same plot for your R1, you will see a much greater "area under the curve" for the bigger cc engine. Edited by - Fred Gassit on 27 Jun 2013 19:29:17

Quoting charlie_pank: My heart is beating to a different rhythm at the moment, you'll just have to wait. Ha-ha. Well, I say you're a weedy pigeon, and you can call me `Susan' if it isn't so. 😬

Quoting charlie_pank: Quoting Fred Gassit: (And it's a bit weedy! ) I think you might be confusing a gearing issue with a power issue R1 (2006): 78.6 lb ft Hayabusa (2009): 102.3 lb ft Ain't no substitute for cubes, Bubba! We are still waiting for some quantitative evidence that your R1 is as fast as you keep claiming... Get a move on man! 😬

Quoting charlie_pank: Quoting Fred Gassit: Quoting charlie_pank: R1: 995cc, 180hp That would be a *Yamaha* R1, wouldn't it? Is there something wrong with that? Yes, it's not a Honda... (And it's a bit weedy! )

The "Super 7" guys over in Canada use a chain drive adaptor for their LHD Hayabusa Se7en. You can just see it on this pic: http://proxy.baremetal.com/super7cars.com/images/006_Engine_RS.JPG I think it basically moves the engine over to clear the steering column, but I guess something similar could help you with getting the prop alignment right and spinning the correct way, plus maybe incorporating reverse? One off engineering though! (=$$$ 😳)

Quoting charlie_pank: R1: 995cc, 180hp That would be a *Yamaha* R1, wouldn't it?

Nova box is straight-through as standard, with a chain drive to an idler shaft for reverse. Wouldn't recommend running that all the time! How about putting the engine in the boot with a chain drive to the rear axle a la Z-Cars? Is there any class capacity limit you need to comply with? The Blackbird is actually 1137cc, which frequently puts it in with the big boy Hayabusa brigade. The latest CBR1000RR engine is 999cc and 178bhp so quite a handy lump! (Previous Blades are 893, 918, 929 or 954 cc depending on year.)

Sweet. Thanks! Edit: Ummm, out of curiosity what is the actual asking price? Aren't you obliged to post that in any "for sale" threads? Edited by - Fred Gassit on 18 Jun 2013 10:47:49

Quoting petefoster: Better still Fred, I'll sell it to you and it comes with a free car 😬 😬 😬 Cool! I'll offer 50 quid...

Quoting petefoster: ...including the ingenious gear lever controlled clutch allowing for two pedal operation on track. That sounds very interesting! Any chance of an in-depth description with pics?

Thanks for the offer but N Wales is a bit far. Looking for something a bit more local (Birmingham area).