MikeMolloy

Sorry John, I can't see the advert. Are you the vendor?

I'd like to service the wheel bearings on my Minno trailer. Anybody got good tips or better still a pictorial "how-to" guide? Bit frightened of wicked springs on brake shoes! Ta!

Lucky guess! 😬

Ah! Quite correct - N is Brown, not Blue... Makes sense as a load for the alternator though. But if it is taking the full whack 13.5V, it will be dissipating 2.7W. Depending on the physical size of the component, (and if it isn't mounted on a heat sink) it could still get to 150 degrees surface temperature! That's a bit warm if there is any chance you could come into contact with it... 😳 If it was me I'd buy a big mutha 25W aluminium case resistor (like this here) and bolt it to a convenient bit of chassis metalwork.

Mmmm. Bit of furtling in the circuit diagrams reveals there is a 68 Ohm 4 Watt resistor between GREEN (Fused Ignition +12V) and Blue/Yellow (connection between Tacho and Grey Engine Plug Pin 11). Not exactly sure what this does but with a 4W rating it is designed to get hot.

I have no quantitative evidence for this, but when I did the Academy we were told by Caterham to consider using super unleaded (boggo 1.6 K-Series engines) as it would lower the engine temperature on track. Anybody got their coolant and oil temps accurately instrumented and can confirm?

You don't have a battery isolator switch? Ah, well ignore all the above then... So, what does the mystery "resistor" actually do then? Can you tell what it is wired to? Or maybe just the wire colours could tell you where to look on the wiring diagram? If it's not the FIA switch then I have no idea of the function. The only other "big boy" resistor I have come across was for the dim-dip feature on a MX5 with pop-up headlights.

Bump!

The power resistor should be connected to one of the "W" terminals on the FIA switch. These contacts are CLOSED when the switch is OPEN. The idea is that when you open the main switch you isolate the battery from the rest of the vehicle electrical system. If you do this while the alternator is spinning it has nothing to control the voltage and you get what is called a "load dump event". This big voltage spike can damage ECUs and the like, so the power resistor to ground is added as a load to soak up the energy from the alternator. IT SHOULD NOT GET HOT IN NORMAL OPERATION! 😳 Check your wiring!

Another for T1Rs. I have run my RB5 on them for several years now (215/40/17 size). Usually get them from Camskill for 75 quid a pop, but I think they have fallen out with Toyo at the moment! Mytyres still do them at 75.95 delivered.

Sorry, wasn't meaning to imply "SBD are better than Raceco" or anything, just thought it was interesting that, as per your previous prediction, they had to rev the 2 litre to 9K5 to get their headline 300+ figure. Reading the linked articles seems to indicate it is not without its challenges though... E.g. valve springs: "...had to develop special valve springs in order to cope with over 13mm of valve lift, regularly rev above 9500rpm." "...had a custom spring made at great expense, being made from the highest spec material, made in a dual rate which is also put through many treatments to extend the life of the spring." And camchains: "if you've got an extremely lairy set of cams spnning at massive speeds, then they have the effect of trying to push the chain off the pulley's teeth - not what you want when dealing with extremes and minute adjustments in race conditions. SBD has already made a manual cam chain tensioner as the hydraulic ones were causing problems, but it's not stopping there; "We're developing a roller chain for the next level of cams," says Steve, which hopefully won't try and hop off the pulleys at extreme revs."

Quoting AMMO: A Duratec that turns 9,500 rpm What do you think of the SBD 2 litre Duratec here? Claim is 307bhp and 200 lb ft, >9500rpm (with peak power about 8800), 13.2mm inlet cam lift.

Prefer plain bonnet with no induction cut-out. Warks area.

Long shot, but anyone got a ST765 going spare? The part is now obsolete and was $$$ when it was available!

I have long been annoyed by the air temp reading on the STACK dash being OOR as no sensor fitted, but could never justify the eye watering cost just to scratch the itch. STACK now list the ST765 air temperature sensor as "obsolete". ☹️ Anybody happen to know if there exists a compatible equivalent? Or does anyone have a surplus ST765 they'd like to sell?

The Ford Kent is an internal combustion engine from Ford of Europe. Originally developed in 1959 for the Ford Anglia, it is an in-line four-cylinder overhead-valve–type engine with a cast-iron cylinder head and block. A redesign gave it a cross-flow type cylinder head, hence the Kent's alternative name Ford Crossflow. The CVH (Compound Valve angle Hemispherical combustion chamber) engine was introduced by Ford in 1980 in the third generation European Ford Escort. It also has a cross-flow cylinder head. Changing the ad wording from CVH to Crossflow just serves to confuse matters!

Why the change from "Ford CVH" to "Ford crossflow"?

Right, I have a wiring diagram of the MFRU in my hand (although I can't find the original on the web!) It contains the Fuel Pump Relay (which is energised by Ignition ON and a signal from the Engine ECU), the ECU Relay, a "Spare Relay" and the Starter Solenoid Relay. The circuit for the starter is Ignition -> Start button -> Relay Coil. So, as someone correctly posted above if you have the ignition on pushing the start button should crank the engine regardless of immobiliser status. If it doesn't crank then you have a flat battery or a MFRU problem. Deffo check the photos on Angus' website and make sure it is plugged in!

Quoting Dave B: Have disabled the immobiliser in emerald but still no cranking and no fuel pump. Now have battery on charge just in case it is not powering the emerald. I am still convinced it is immob as that is the only thing that changed from me dropping off the car, to trying to collect it. Dave B How do you know what else the grease monkeys have been meddling with in the meantime??? 😳 If this is the standard K Series immobiliser then all it does is send a code to the Engine Management Unit. It does have a crank disable output but this is not connected for the Caterham application. If you have told the Emerald to ignore the immobiliser code, then IT IS NOT THE IMMOBILISER. Suggest you start tracing the fuel pump feed.

Where can I get some "leatherette" coated ally sheet like Caterham use for their dash and interior panels? Ta.

Nice one! Thanks.

Wanted: Pair of Eibach front springs in 170 lb/in rating. Caterham part number: 75517

Oilyhands.