Ralph45 Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Well I've just had the front shocks out and when it came to refitting I quickly checked the torque for the upper and lower mountings from a saved screen shot,it states 20 nm.All good,a little copper slip 20 nm and all together again,right?Well not according to another saved torque screen shot I've now just found from further back in time stating 20 nm and thread lock! !!Both are from CC.So should I strip the shocks out again and try to clean the copper slip from the thread in the lower wishbone and use some Loctite or leave well alone and just keep an eye on it?opinions or personal experiences?its a wide track 1999 using Bilstein shocks if that makes any difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 On stands with a jack under the disc remove the bolt and clean it. In / out a few times cleaning inbetween.Then fit a long tube on some brake cleaner, insert into hole and squirt into the threaded boss and give it a good flush out.Trick is to loctite the thread and coppa slip the shank to stop it seizing in the ally bush.Thats how I'd do it !Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 I agree with Ian's technique. As there is no spring washer and the torque is only 20Nm, I wouldn't want to drive without thread lock.Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 You can just get a Schnorr washer in here - spring washers do sod all in any application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Having seen more than one case of a rusted in bolt (which caused the eventual scrapping of the wishbone) I coppaslip both thread and shank of bolt. I don't use loctite. This over nearly 30 years with no problems. Watch this space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 8, 2020 Member Share Posted January 8, 2020 What's the thing like a salt shaker or dustbin that they don't want you to use?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dixa1225 Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 That is a bin . The kits come with that bolt in the chassis , telling you do not throw away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Reads to me like unscrew it but don't discard it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 8, 2020 Member Share Posted January 8, 2020 Thank you.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 As ECR, 17 years without a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 I have pondered ECR's observation / experience and wondered if lots of smooth race tracks (and French roads) would have anything to do with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ECR Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 My lower wishbones come in for serious grief to the extent that I have recently replaced them due to cracks so I don't really think that smooth roads/circuits contribute Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon.Rogers Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Do not use thread lock unless you want new wishbone everytime you need to remove the damper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Coming over them at every oil change like any other suspension fastner. (This means every trackday). Never had any come loose! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 8, 2020 Member Share Posted January 8, 2020 For those who aren't using a chemical threadlocker please could you say what you are using:Copper grease on the thread? Any washers of any sort? 20 or 25 Nm?Same on the top bolt?ThanksJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CtrMint Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 When I built mine last year, I followed the pictorial representation, those torque specs and copper slip. Seems to be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Very little copper slip and 20Nm - imperial car. Fairly certain it's copper slip on the top bolt as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 I have just removed my front damper after 42000 miles and building the car in 2011. I used exactly the method recommended Wrightpayne.I just used a small 3/8 drive ratchet, the loctite (243) was stiff to undo at first, and then the bolt easily unscrewed and came out undamaged.Grease on the bolt where it passes through the damper is vital. But remember, loctite not only locks the thread but seals it against water/salt ingress. Loctite gives peace of mind and makes it easier to disassemble by preventing thread corrosion.Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Second DJ comment. Thread lock is an anti-corrosion agent too. Just a couple of spots though. Plenty of Copaslip on shank of bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 Looks like both approaches work! Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph45 Posted January 8, 2020 Author Share Posted January 8, 2020 Well thank you all for your views and personal preferences.I have decided to leave as is and just check the bolts on a regular basis.If at any point I find that they are loosening then I shall clean up the threads and wishbones thoroughly and apply a little thread lock.Thanks again Ralph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted January 10, 2020 Leadership Team Share Posted January 10, 2020 I was beginning to think I've been doing it wrong for the last 20 years but at least this shows there's different thoughts about skinning the proverbial cat ... excuse the pun! I'm in the copperslip-only camp and never had a problem with them coming lose.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 10, 2020 Share Posted January 10, 2020 I've just looked up the notes I made during my 2008 build. I coated the spacer with copper grease (as per the Assembly Guide) and applied Loctite 243 sparingly to the tip of the bolt thread (not mentioned in my Guide, either for or against). Torqued to 20Nm.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph45 Posted January 10, 2020 Author Share Posted January 10, 2020 Johnathan thank you for putting the image up but it now throws another fly in the ointment.All the build manuals or torque settings I can find state 20 nm.But if look closely in the exploded diagram it gives 25 nm as the setting to be used?I'm not really concerned,however I am now even more interested to know what to set the bolts at,and what do other fellow seven folk set them at ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 10, 2020 Member Share Posted January 10, 2020 Yes, it changed, and I haven't found a reason. It's 20 Nm in the most recent traditional style manual that I have.And I still don't know what washers are being used by those who put copper grease on the thread...Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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