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Spare wheel carrier removal?


Nick Bassett

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Washing my car yesterday, got me thinking that my 8+ years of ownership I've never had a puncture and I am therefore lugging around a big chunk of weight that must be blighting the performance a little. However I'm not completely comfortable wit the thought of never having a spare wheel at my disposal - long trips etc, so wondered if anyone has a any tips on a conversion that removes the spare wheel removal but allows refitment when necessary?

My car is a 94 Supersport.

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Thanks JK - sounds like I'm not alone then. I did a quick search, but the search tool brought up nothing related! Just love this 'new' forum... *banghead*

It's seems there are a few home-made solutions out there - some detailed pics would be really useful if anyone is happy to share?

Shame Caterham themselves haven't developed something...

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my car came with Yokohama AO 48 track day tyres and no spare wheel carrier. Also the rears are a wider section to the front. I had intended to fit a carrier and spare for touring however the spare would not be the correct size for both ends. After arriving home one day with a front puncture which I hadnt noticed, as I had been driving steadily, I became aware that these track day tyres have very strong side walls and this flat only looked to have a low pressure rather than virtually zero. I have therefore decided to treat these tyres as run flats which will get me home. I do also carry an inflator and repair fluid.

Roger.

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Nick , I turned mine into a sort of bumper   I cut the tube leaving a stub , I had an insert made that was an interference fit to link the two tubes. Drilled a hole into each bit of the tube and tapped them and secured with bolt , ground off the head filled the gaps with filler and painted it.  I like the look and it also means you can still use the luggage carrier that fits the full wheel carrier. I used the hole from the wheel bolt to pass the wiring through for the number plate light.  

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Check to see if your carrier is welded or bolted on.

You can clearly see welds or a bolt if you look carefully.

Most cars with no spare wheel appear to have the boss/hole so you can put the bolt on carrier on. You have to take out the boot floor and move the petrol tank to get the bolts in so it is a bit time consuming. Obviously removing a bolt on is a reversal. The number plate light also needs reengineering.

*driving*

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That's like the minimum equipment needed for touring: a 'phone and a credit card. This approach also comes up in the HPV world. And IIRC with the McLaren F1 except that the 'phone to the factory and support helicopter was built in.

Jonathan

PS: A bit disappointed that no-one's come with the same great play on words that's in one of threads to which I linked...

 

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here are some pics. Points worthy of note...

1) Used an enamel badge to cover the spare wheel fixing stuck with double sided trim tape.

2) Standard caterham light bracket and used the original lamp unit from the hoop. I had to slacken off the fuel tank fixings to pull the wire out of the hoop. PERHAPS DO THIS FIRST BEFORE GETTING THE HACK SAW OUT!!

3) Notched the number plate so it fits flush with the bottom of the back panel (hiding a bit of corrosion under the paint) held on with velcro. Made a jig with some wood to notch the plate - mainly to locate the hole saw as I cut a semi circle.

4) In case you're wondering, the lights are lorry LED lamps with econoseal plugs fitted to mate with the original loom.

 

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

IMG_0207.JPG.459554904f5f1ca9d38947094c0130c3.JPGInspired by this thread I cut off my wheel carrier, painted the 50mm stubs with Hammerite satin & plugged the ends with 20mm hood bar end plugs from a local boat shop. 

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Bought a tiny led light from CBS for fitting in the ~10mm hole for the now redundant wheel retainer. Shaped a scrap of 5mm plastic (acrylic) to mount the light on with a 30mm M4 machine screw fitted with Araldite to fix it through the hole. The wiring passes through an angled hole to let it lie beside the mounting screw without being trapped. In the boot is another small piece of acrylic as a washer, with an angled hole to let the wiring out. I used a piece of connector strip for the wiring so I didn't need to fit any terminals. Used a black indelible marker on the visible edge of the acrylic and 3mm foam tape to keep the water out. 
Looks neat and is easily reversible. 

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Something different, Ive cut down a wheel carrier re-welded the fittings and fitted a plug and socket for the wires so I can refit the full size carrier when I want to carry the spare wheel. It gives a bit of protection to the back panel  

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