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Calling 2.0L Duratec owners


timbo

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I'm now building a 2.0L duratec (focus origins)

 

Wanting 220-230 bhp on following spec:

std bottom end, uprated BE, Mains bolts

Crank keyed

Std pistons pocketed

std head

 

As anyone got such a engine spec running an emerald. Why I ask is that it is difficult for me to cross the water to get mapping done. Hence I need the following info from those with such a beast:

cams choice

induction (I will be using jenvy DTH 90mm trumpets)

injectors choice

Fuel base line pressure

uprated or std fuel pump used?

exhaust choice?

 

Basically I would like, if possible, to mirror build components that someone has used to the 220-230 spec and is willing to supply an emerald map to me for a 'nearest fit' engine build.

 

Thanks guys *smile*

 

BUSA POWWWER

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You don't need to change the mains bolts or key the crank. The standard head bolts are best retained aswell. There's a good reason for this especially for high power engines. Can't help with the emerald map but Rob Walker has a similar spec I think.

 

Mick

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Also interested as I am thinking of upgrading to similar spec. A close map would be useful to get the car running.

 

Mic, one of the advantages of keying the crank is it makes removing and replacing the front cover much easier as you don't have to worry about the position of the pulley.

 

Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R

I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here

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Injectors, Cosworth ones here or here at half the priceare good, suitable for up to 270 bhp or so, you can get them from Cosworth or Burton, come with suitable fuel rail.

Raceline Cams are good, likewise their wet-sump is a great soloution. As Mic says, you don't have to key the crank, I believe Cosworth don't on the CSR260, you will save a pile of money and an engine strip by not doing that. Standard fuel pump is fine for 230bhp. I use the Raceline Exhaust, but noise is no issue, otherwise invest in a RaceCo one.

 

Dubai Duratec SV *cool*

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Flow rates for the cosworth blue injectors are way too high for this engine spec.

 

Dobuy - have to strip the bottom end anyway to get the pistons pocketed (presume this is required to meet bhp target for valve clearance), so may as well get the crank keyed at the same time.

 

Right ... where's me ole mucker Rob Walker?

 

BUSA POWWWER

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Lets not get carried away trying to build an engine to someones elses spec to avoid mapping

Weve been there too many times it dosnt work

Every engine is different.

 

Why dont the two of you go ahead build to bacically similar specs with whatever head and cam spec you want then I'll stick both of them in Truck and we'll get Dave to map them both same day . A perfect excuse for the three of us to get away next year for a weekend.

 

jj

N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻

Membership No.3927.

 

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Totally agree JJ, but if you can get a map that is close then at least you can make sure everything is working before you take it to the rolling road.

 

My intention would always be to take it back to Emerald to be properly mapped.

 

Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R

I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here

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have to strip the bottom end anyway to get the pistons pocketed (presume this is required to meet bhp target for valve clearance), so may as well get the crank keyed at the same time

Well not really, you can leave the crank undisturbed and just unbolt the con-rods. But I take your point, however, setting up the timing once in a while is not difficult, even without a key way.

 

 

Dubai Duratec SV *cool*

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Cough!

 

The k in certain circumstances has been known to give some bother in the head gasket department.......thats not to say its a bad engine, it just needs to be looked after properly.

 

The zetec in my experience is tough as old nails, iron block etc

 

The duratec in my car has so far proved reliable despite being given a certain amount of abuse.

13,750 miles and still going strong.

 

Most Caterhams have k's because that was what came in them from Caterham for a good few years. Caterham are now fitting duratecs and sigmas from Ford.

 

Oh and the 2.3 is a truck engine.............

 

Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R

I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here

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Theres fec all wrong with a K BUT thats not relevant on here

as regards to Duratechs MR Bell yours is more like a xflow youll not need chassis protection for a while 😬

As regard to the 2.3 vrs 2.0 debate Tim has just sold a 2.3 so he's ben there done that that's why he's bought a 2.0 for his new car.

 

I've run a K for 10yrs they are great and looked after will go on for along time.

Would I put one in a new car NO I'd fit a 2.0 Dtec *cool*

 

jj

N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻

Membership No.3927.

 

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JJ

 

My engine has not leaked oil since beginning of the season.......just haven't cleaned the chassis yet.

You know me....I drive it in the summer and clean it in the winter.

 

The gearbox has developed a leak though......hopefully just the speedo drive seal again.

 

Simon Bell - Caterham 7 Duratec R

I`ve seen the future.....and it`s powered by duratec Check out the website here

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TimBo,

 

Sorry for being annoying, but why did you sell the 2.3 to fit a 2.0? Was it too tall to fit in the standard chassis?

 

I'm looking into different engines for my new car at the moment too, so I've alot of unanswered questions. *rolleyes*

 

Have you thought of the other Japanese engines aswell?

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I suggest you spend some time searching this forum first! Unless you want a huge amount of trail blazing grief, I suggest you stick with a "standard" option of either K or Duratec. For a new build I can't see why you wouldn't want a Duratec - simply choose the spec between 200 and 300bhp. As for 2.0 vs 2.3, depends whether you want gutless screaming or torquey midrange for similar power *wink*.

 

There's at least one Honda K20A around, but the engine is very tall. I don't know why you'd want the Toyota.

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I understand from a chap in the pub the ford pinto engine is the engine transplant favorite at the moment.

 

I've read in CCC a lot of owners with old duratechs are trading up now, not least because the exhaust is on the same side and the pinto fits in easily with a smallish bonnet bulge and some angle iron.

 

The Pinto is also nice and heavy so well planted on track.

 

Their ability to keep revs below 6800 mean they can pass those stricter track day noise tests more easily than the rather tiresomely revvy duratechs.

 

Any duratech boys have who traded up let me know and I will pay 10% above scrap by weight for you old lump provided you deliver and install please. 😬

 

Will

 

 

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