Dobuy

Hi Mike, which caliper did you use?

Time is approaching to change the rear pads on my standard Sierra cailpers. I have been using Mintex 1155 to come with the high heat generated at the rear axle and of course out here in Dubai. A quick check indicates that pads are now £110 for the 1155 and about half that for 1144's. My current brake set up is the AP 4-pots on the front and the uprated master cylinder. Are there any reasonably priced bolt on options that would improve my rear brakes? I don't need the handbrake so can use anything really. Don't want to spend big money on AP's, just looking for a cheap and simple replacement for the sierra calipers. Dubai Duratec SV

Nice scales, very tempting. As to the laser, there is no way event he cheapest laser will have any degradation over the distance of a wheelbase. Maybe over a Cathedral, I get the feeling its just the commercial laser companies trying to justify their prices.

Innovate LC1 kit comes with a suitable boss for welding

Just had a mate of mine have his tube fail at the A-frame mount out here in Dubai. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but what is the difference between the narrow and wide buttress. His is a '94 K-Series, need to make sure we order the correct tube. Not sure if the A-Frame is OK, as he says the wheel has movedquite a lot and has a load of toe-in. Any advice would be much appreciated. Dubai Duratec SV

Interesting readin this thread, I think I will have to tweak my settings a bit to see if I can get rid of my low revs full throttle black hole. What software version are you all using, I am on K3 V1.0 rev 0.81 and wonder if there is anything newer available. Dubai Duratec SV

I did the EWP on my Duratec, really happ with it. Fitted it on bottom hose. Pictures available here Dubai Duratec SV

Self -assembled 2.3 Duratec with Raceline 280' cams, SBD pistons & rods, Raceline flowed head. Titan Dry Sump, approx 260bhp. Same box & diff config as Rob BGH Sporting close 5 speed 2.66 1st 0.86 5th 3.92 ZF Plate type diff Dubai Duratec SV

Yeah you need to measure the average AFR, as measuring just one could give you an incorrect picture of the whole engine. Most seem to place them after the 4-1 or 4-2-1 part of the manifold

Here you go, Type 9 manual

Some details here on wikipedia here

DHE is Duratec HE which is the generic term for the range of motors used by Ford

You will be able to recover the data for free using one of the tools in the previous link, just try a few of the free ones until you find one that works. Once you have got your data off safely, you can simply go to XP Disk Management as described earlier, then delete the partition, re-install it and the hard drive will then work perfectly. THere is nothing wrong with the hardware, the boot sector code just got corrupted, that's all.

Yes RAW is a photo file type, but it is also a Hard Disc "state" See here p.s. the software above is not free but the trial version will tell you if you can recover your partition Pooh, I won't say it isn't the usb, but I would bet it is a corrupt MBR. This is a common problem that happens when for among other reasons when a PC crashes and a USB device is plugged in.

OK, had this before, don't worry your files are still there. I fixed it by installing the disc in my PC and running FIXMBR However this may be difficult for you. First thing you have to do is find out what kind of File Allocation Table (FAT) your drive is using, i.e. FAT32 or NTFS. Do this by right clicking on My Comuter select Manage, then go to Disk Management. Once you kow what FAT you are using you can get all kinds of freeware tools that will undelete, copy your files or fix your hard disc. Try here for free tools This one looks like a good option

perfect been looking for something Caterham orientated to do on my mini-break to the UK Dubai Duratec SV

I would be really surprised if Pete Mckewan from Raceline did not know as he designed it.

Thanks for the accurate explanation AMMO, hadn't heard it explained like that before. Cheers, Neil Dubai Duratec SV

The ticking could just be one of the buckets being a bit out of tolerance. I would be surprised if your tensioner has gone at your state of tune Simon. I believe the problem is at higher revs above say 7400rpm and predominantly on the 2.3 I knew I had some pictures, so have posted the raceline modified tensioner here. That should explain it. Opposite Lock... Unlike a other engines, you can fix the only minor flaw on the engine in about 30 minutes and for about £30 No cheese here and if you don't understand that comment you need to do more reading Dubai Duratec SV

Simon, from my understanding the problem is in the tensioner, at very high revs, if you come off the throttle you can get a bit of backlash in the chain, which can cause the ratchet in the tensioner mechanism to loose a tooth or two. Its not a catastrophe, Peter from Raceline has developed a simple modification to the standard tensioner, that stops this happening. It can be retrofitted with engine in place, just a matter of taking of the front crank pulley and camchain cover. Dubai Duratec SV

I have had both a 226bhp Raceline 2.0 and my home assembled 260bhp spec 2.3 so I think I can be objective. Firstly the 2.3 can and does fit into the narrow chassis, as Mic who has built several with great success can attest. As to agricultural, the 2.3 is hardly that, yes it is marginally less sweet tan the 2.0 as a revver, but it is a fair bit torquier. It probably weighs about 5-7kgs more due to a heavier crank and the extra 12mm of block height. The 2.0 is great, in 226bhp spec it was under stressed, easy to live with and more than torquey enough to spin up my slicks in 3rd at the race circuit here. I actually think my 2.3 has too much horsepower, I never thought I would ever say that, but it is a monster on the track (and I come from a superbike background). Maybe I just don't drive it enough. So given all that if I had a chance to do it all again, I would probably build a 2.0 to 250bhp spec like the one AMMO just did, as I think this would be a really decent combination of horsepower and torque. But then BYKer Will has tempted me towards the Pinto Dubai Duratec SV

Well not really, you can leave the crank undisturbed and just unbolt the con-rods. But I take your point, however, setting up the timing once in a while is not difficult, even without a key way. Dubai Duratec SV

Injectors, Cosworth ones here or here at half the priceare good, suitable for up to 270 bhp or so, you can get them from Cosworth or Burton, come with suitable fuel rail. Raceline Cams are good, likewise their wet-sump is a great soloution. As Mic says, you don't have to key the crank, I believe Cosworth don't on the CSR260, you will save a pile of money and an engine strip by not doing that. Standard fuel pump is fine for 230bhp. I use the Raceline Exhaust, but noise is no issue, otherwise invest in a RaceCo one. Dubai Duratec SV

I would agree with that and also Simon's advice about the 2.0 being a better starting option, with upgrades only really needed when going for big power Dubai Duratec SV

Seems to be a trip to DVA is in order, has to be the most cost efficient way of upgrading a nice car, unless of course you want a lifestyle change, in which case fit a Duratec 😬 Dubai Duratec SV