Willie.

Nope. You boys are making me paranoid now. Must check the carpet under the car for a big wet spot 😬

Agreed, and I was surprised too as everyone says 4.5 - 5ltrs. But it definetly took more like 6-7 for mine and didnt throw any into catch tank. I suppose filter could account for maybe half a litre at max. I'd pipes etc off. Still, for OP, thats what I'd be double checking first as low level would do exactly those symptoms. Do you have a leak so level could've dropped?

Talking about a Caterham dry sump and bell housing tank. I had my sump off and changed filter too. Took about 7 litres to get it to the right level, including filling the filter. May have been between 6 and 7, I emptied a full 4ltr and the majority of another.

5ltrs won't be enough from empty. I'd suggest you just don't have enough in it, as Stu says. I just filled mine from empty, and including a new filter I reckon it must've taken about 7ltrs. Double check your oil level.

If you've seen cheap rally tyres, like those Dunlops, some are remoulds and are heavy.

Looks real nice Any pics of the cage with the reversing light LEDs? That sounds like a pretty neat idea, and looks to work well.

Ahem*...you mean N.Irish plate, there's a border y'know NI plates are super desirable and increase prices by up to 500% 😬 She's a bargain at twice the price

*arrowup*Me too slow 😬

Vinnie, You know alot of the SLR wheels are welded together, often under a bead of silicone, so you might need to get them set up on a lathe to part off the outer rim. StuForshaw will be along soon no doubt, but something tells me that MB outers fit, or can be made fit. That could be complete twaddle though. To be honest, they don't look at all bad. They don't look like the later rolled edge version; have you considered getting the dents welded and tidied up?

Sorry for the delay replying, trying to sort out piles of things this week, so struggling to get any Blatchat browsing time. It's no bother scaling it up in reality. The way I do it is take the longest "good" dimension (Between points that are pretty secure/fixed) I can get from the sump or block, and scale the plan to be the same. That gives you a fixed line to work the rest from if you need to move any centres. I printed out a copy and draped it over the sump and it looks to be bang on. I'll put it on tracing paper for a more thorough check before beginning to fabricate, but I think I've revilla's generosity and effort to thank for saving me a fair bit of time with the callipers. Plan is to check with the tracing paper, then design in CAD a pattern which I can get laser cut, fold up and weld to make the sump. It's for a dry sump, so some complication to it, but it'll give me something to play with for a while 😬

Sorry you didn't get the Blatmail, it appeared to send ok, but obviously didn't. I've just successfully got the image downloaded. It's brilliant! You've gone to lot of trouble to do that, so thank you very much. It's absolutely perfect for me. I'll get it into AutoCAD and draw over it. If you would like a copy of the AutoCAD Drawing (Or as PDF) just let me know. Thanks very much for the help...I'll let you know how I get on with the sump! THANK YOU Willie

Are Caterham not producing any more dry sump kits for the K Series? Does that mean they will be stopping production of the Caterham dry sump pan?

Great suggestion - Revilla, I'd be very grateful if you would be willing to scan it in, I'd really appreciate that. Thanks for the help. I'll blatmail you my email address. Willie p.s. Not sure what happened to my username up there

Hi folks, Does anyone have a drawing showing the hole centres of the bottom of a K Series sump flange? I want to fabricate a sump and just thought I'd ask before measuring up. Hoping to try drawing it up and getting it laser cut. Long shot, I know, but someone may have done it before. Willie

Mav, I am happy to have a dry sump Sorta forgot people have apollos or Pace tanks in that location. Still, you'd probably be able to fit them at the other side of the expansion tank then, would you not? Hehe, at least it worked for me 😬

Re: Fitting Apologies that I was a week later than I said...just back from Euro tour and had more to get caught up on that I realised. Started a new thread so as not to fill this one if anyone comments. Tool Tube Fitting Thread

In the BulkBuy section, I said I would show a few pics of how I mounted my tool tubes. I didn't want to post a heavy post on there and take it off topic, so posting here. I'll post a link on the Bulk Buy thread to keep things tidy. I made a bottom bracket to attach the two together and snap over the bottom chassis cross member, the big 1" round tube which runs sideways across the chassis, in front of the engine. It is retained with a single jubilee clip (The bracket located and holds it, jubilee clip is just incase a big bump would throw it up and off). I then made a top bracket to hook over the top diagonal chassis rail near the expansion tank. The only reason it is pointy where it hooks over is simply because it was a bit of scrap I had lying. http://my.lotussevenclub.com/Portals/14/UltraPhotoGallery/1206/240/large/DSC_0661.jpg http://my.lotussevenclub.com/Portals/14/UltraPhotoGallery/1206/240/large/DSC_0662.jpg http://my.lotussevenclub.com/Portals/14/UltraPhotoGallery/1206/240/large/DSC_0667.jpg http://my.lotussevenclub.com/Portals/14/UltraPhotoGallery/1206/240/large/DSC_0668.jpg http://my.lotussevenclub.com/Portals/14/UltraPhotoGallery/1206/240/large/DSC_0669.jpg These two were filled with tools, spares and oil, and sat here no problem for 4000miles on our Euro trip. I had a third mounted as a lashup with cable ties, lying on top of the chassis to the left of the expansion tank (Towards throttle bodies). I was too ashamed to take pictures off it). Benefits of having them mounted down low in front of engine is obviously keeping weight low, keeps the vertical for getting stuff out and keeps oil in radiator airflow, so at approx engine temp for hot top ups. Disadvantage is that you need to take the nosecone off for access. Willie

Try lifting your foot sooner, you're keeping your toe in it and spinning up the wheels. Nearer the end you're lighter on the throttle. Try lifting as soon as it goes, spinning the wheels is like lifting the handbrake. Just my 2p...but I couldn't drive nails into butter

Could the clutch be contanimated / faulty rather than worn? Problem with pressure plate or make crankshaft oil seal leaking and it's got onto friction plate?

Was heading from Luxembourg to Reims and spotted two sevens in the space of an hour. First was red and flared wings (I think), the second I missed but wife saw; it was black.

I mounted mine (K Series), 2 vertically infront of engine offset to passenger side. Alloy bracket to hold them and jubilee clip to bottom chassis cross tube. So behind steering rack, nice and low and in rad airflow...so spare oil sits at very near engine temp (ideal for hot topping up). Third is just cable tied on at an angle from drivers side headlamp bracket towards header tank. I have pics I can upload at the weekend if anyone is thinking of similar.

Help for hub repair / garage in Carcassonne, France Please click above link to thread on chitchat. Thank you

Hi Lee, no reply received if you've tried contacting me. Will BM you again. Thanks

If it's just a rattle, remove the secondaries and give each of the primaries a slight squeeze at the very end. If you make them slightly elliptical then they'll be tighter in the secondaries. Only a tiny bit will be needed, don't over do it.

Hi Lee, Yes please. Blatmail sent. Willie