Willie.

Edited by - Opposite Lock on 6 Mar 2013 20:19:25

Not me I'm afraid Ian, I'm a terrible passenger and only was in with a mate because he'd sat with me to the Stelvio & back. It wasn't Mark or Gareth Lyons, JJ's son's?

Ian; I don't think we were introduced, but I may have been speaking to you briefly at Hilton Templepatrick one of the days. I was passengering with a mate as my own car was in bits. Are you coming over for the tour in May? Lavena, just took a photo for you, so have a look at the album here Thanks for the compliments...if you'd been looking over my shoulder you mightn't have been so impressed

We're operational. Just for anyone else considering it, bit of a write up as I'm that relieved to get it done. I'm terrified of all things electrical, so this was no mean feat for me. I bought the MSCM12 and MRF12 MiniCON connectors by Neutrik (here) as reccommended by Ian. This is a male plug and female socket. First thing I noticed was that the connectors are so tiny, that soldering does need to be neat otherwise pins wouldn't go in, or would touch and short. Also, as the coiled wire from the steering wheel is a keyboard cable, the individual wires are tiny. Once soldered to the solid pin, they flex just after the joint and are very easy to break, especially if you've to shove them around to get all the pins pushed into the black pin block. I used 1.5mm dia heatshrink to insulate and support the wires. This is bang on the correct size. Any bigger and you couldn't fit the connector sleeve which slides over the lot on the plug. The socket's incoming wires were big boys, so I did the same with the socket up to the wire's own plastic sleeve, as any increase on outside diameter would've meant I couldn't put the pins in beside each other. Heatshrink or electrical tap at the end to tidy the job. Previous owner had fitted the previous socket to the old speedo reset cable bracket, and this worked again. So I've now got a snazzy new 12pin feed to my steering wheel and getting all kinds of stupid ideas. I want to relocate the buttons anyway, so may have a go at doing something fancy using another steering wheel and coiled wire/plug so I can still use the car and work on an alternative setup. Some photos here

Thanks Graham, that's the ticket and gives me encouragement to get at mine. I've a straight tubed roadsport cage fitted with a curvey metric one to replace. I'll turn down some M10s and knock up a couple of spacers in advance. Thanks for coming back with the outcome Enjoy your new style.

Hi Tony, no problem, thats fair. If it doesnt suit Sandman, I'll take it as its a newer cage I have, so sounds ideal. All the best , Willie P.s is the wheel contoured or same profile all round?

I'll take the tonneau please, assuming its for roadsportcage? Willie

Thanks very much Ian Reassuring to hear. I'm hoping to get it tomorrow all being well, so planning to get stuck in over the weekend. Sounds like it works exactly the way I'd like, so an extra benefit.

Hi Graham, Do the spigots line up? I thought the Metric spigot was a smaller diameter and offset to the inside, so not in the centre of the chassis socket? I also thought this had the result that a bolt could not be inserted into the metric spigot, as the hole is off centre. I've a metric cage to replace my imperial cage, but I assumed I'd need to make a spacer with an offset bore to take the slack out of the metric spigot in imperial socket. Keen to hear otherwise as it'll make this job alot easier.

Yeh, going to. Have a different cage to fit (Double D Hooped Roadsport Cage), so I'll be fitting the brake light to it. Does anyone have photos of body coloured roadsport cages?

Thanks for the offer JJ. I've the connector bits ordered, but may be after replacement switches at some stage (If I can't get the solder off these ones clean), so may make use of your account then - thanks

Order is in. Slightly more earnest than planned. On the way home from work, the right hand indicator stopped working (Connector fault). No big deal, I've no doors so can hand signal easily to get me home. Waiting on the main road to turn right, lights on, hand out, foot on brake so brake lights on, but no right indicator...and someone coming from behind just clean didn't see me. I could tell from the approach speed they hadn't seen me, so got ready, they started aiming for the kerb so I nailed it up the road and they managed to get straightened up ok. Fair put the jitters up me as, ok, they should've seen a stopped car, but they could be excused as I'd no indicator going. Decided to get it ordered tonight and not drive again until working 100%. It seems Farnell, RS and all those type of big wigs, you can't pay by Maestro card...and I've never had a credit card. That put me in a bit of a pickle, but I managed to find the Neutrik connectors on a smaller site that does PayPal, and I fancy the look of the MiniCon that Ian linked to. They do the push/pull connection, seem pretty robust from what I can tell and what swung me mostly was I could find lots of info on them to tell me how they go together and so on. Big help for a numpty like me. I'll see how I get on in a day or two and report back with a few photos too hopefully.

Oh, and meant to say, what I'd really like, is a connector that "locks" or attaches in a similar fashion to airline (As in air compressor type) connectors. You know the type with a knurled outside "skin" on the socket that you pull back to release the inside male? Something like that I reckon would be ideal, just push in and then pull to remove. Can't really tell how some of the ones online work, but some look a bit awkward for frequent use.

Thanks for the info. I struggle to understand catalogues like RS, as I'm not familiar with all the technical terms, so have no idea what I'm really looking at. Been struggling to work out what's what, and how it connects (Don't want something that's awkward to attach/detach). Good to have a few names to look up, as no point in me re-wiring it with another plug that'll be every bit as bad. Currently I need to jiggle it a bit as sometimes it fails to connect a pin or two. Some of those look neat, so I'll have a dig through them all later and see if I can find one that looks the job. I want a socket one to fit through an existing hole in a plate, ideally with a nut to lock it in place. Then a plug on the wire from the wheel. I can take no credit for the install as it was the previous owner who did it all. It's a cool setup with 4 push buttons on the wheel (LH/RH indicator, main and horn) controlled by a Siemens Logo unit. With lights off, main is flash, lights on it's dip/main. Indicators push on/push off, or auto off after 30seconds. Currently all 4 buttons are to the bottom portion of the wheel, and I struggle to reach them without moving my hands as I've small fingers. At night it's tricky to find main beam in a hurry, and I tend to fire on the indicator. I intend to re-make it to have the indicators above the centre "arms" of the wheel, with the main and horn below. That means it should be much easier to reach the buttons and with only 1 in each quadrant, it should be easiest to find the correct one. Hoping to re-locate them and fit the new plug at the same time, hence I've been looking it up and getting no where. Now I've a few names to chase, I'll see if I can work out what I need and get it ordered. Having only ever had toggles on the standard Caterham setup, I do like the push buttons, but they do need to be in the right place to be an advantage over the toggles, as if you need to take your hand off the wheel, it defeats the purpose. I had considered adding another button for my Autocom/Kenwood push to talk, but I think it best to leave it to the 4 buttons to make it quicker to find everything at night. If you're an electronics wizz, I'd suggest using dimly illuminated push buttons to make it easier at night. You get used to where they are to a certain extent, but if you've the wheel turned any, it can be tricky to find them. Willie p.s. This is based on my experience which has so far been about 600miles use.

Hi, I have recently bought a 7 which the previous owner had done some trick electrical work to. Part of this is buttons on the (quick release) steering wheel. In order to permit the wheel to be removed, there is an 8pin connector under the dash which you unscrew a locking nut, and pull out. It's a pretty cool setup. It's the 8pin version of this here Unfortunately, it's quite light and flimsy and struggles to maintain contact, so I would like to replace it with something more robust and of higher quality. I know the square root of nothing when it comes to electrial stuff, so hoping someone can help. Its only to run tiny telephone/keyboard wires, so I don't need a massive heavy duty item, but I do need something that can take a fair bit of plugging/unplugging and maintain contact. I've been looking at the "Military Spec" circular connectors on RS Online, and think this may do the job: here Would anyone who knows about these kind of things be able to suggest if this would be ok, or if there is anywhere I could find something more suitable? Thanks for any info - I'm out of my depth with this one! Willie

Edited, YHM Willie Edited by - Willie. on 10 Jan 2013 20:32:44

Am I the only one shallow enough to not want roll cage padding because it makes the car look like a dogs dinner? I'd like to see the tintops some of you boys drive... Do you replace side windows with foam and wrap all passenger's heads in bubble wrap? I've just sold my current "tintop", a 1979 MG Midget, no roll cage, roll bar, air bags or anything. There was a big bolt head for the hinge of the hood frame right at my head, that I often bashed just in normal driving. Reading this thread it's a wonder some folks don't sleep in nomex pijamas, as if we're sticking to statistics, theory and risk assessments, then: "In the UK annually there are approximatley 500 fire-related deaths. The majority of these occur within the home between 12am and 6am when people are asleep. There are about 59,0001 house fires a year in the UK" I appreciate it's different for everyone, and especially so for racers, but I believe the original poster was looking for "real world" answers, so I'm just balancing the argument up Willie p.s. Statistics on fire came from http://www.firstalert.eu; how on earth did they manage to round up to "about 59,0001" p.p.s. Ye'r all a bunch of ninnys 😬

Those last two pics had me stumped for a bit... Assume that's just for the wind up? Neat 😬

Hopefully mid to late January. Can't wait for the run home. After Emerald we will be heading for Stranraer for the boat; won't have alot of time, but if there are any decent roads en-route anyone could suggest, I wouln't mind taking one or two in.

Thanks for the pics and info. I'm hoping to take 90mm trumpets with me and the spacers will be about 45mm, so with the backplate added in, it's probably going to be about 137mm from face of TB. I'll also have the 50mm trumpets from the airbox there to try if necessary. Is Dave usually happy to fit the adjustables for to find the right length/mapping, and then remove? Or would he only really allow them to be used if the intention is to purchase? Budget is being blown by the car purchase, and trying not to rack up another small fortune before even getting home! Your setup with the backplate looks nice. I'd be tempted to do that, as I do like the idea of having plenty of air around the trumpets. Internal height of the 604D is 125mm, so I think with the 90mm trumpet giving 35mm to inside face of filter, it should be ok. I actually really like the look of a filter sitting out through the bonnet. The only reason I'm trying to avoid it is because I don't want to have to start into filing at a bonnet in a panic at Dave's. I can make a deeper backplate and do that when I get home if necessary. Thanks for comment on V6. I'm gutted that I ran out of money & time, but life moves on and I just wasn't able to complete it. We're house buying, and it's going to require alot of money & time to fix up. I decided it was better to abandon, sell up and try and get myself back in a working 7...and I can do another project when time & funds allow. It wouldn't be everyone's taste, but I'd sure love a 3ltr V6 monster Caterham. Hanging the tail in 5th with the V6 soundtrack would be serious fun.

Thanks, assumed they weren't available in the smaller ID, so good to know they are. Will be fairly tight for time, but might give them a try if time permits or curve isn't looking good (Not that I'd know a good one). I think from reading in the archives that you run a big C604D Pipercross filter? May I ask what length of trumpets you're running and where you have your backplate mounted?

Thanks Mankee, that drawing is exactly what I'm after. I've also just had a mate drop in with me and told me that I still have a big billet of ali sitting in his workshop, so looks like I'm in business. Not sure what fuel rail it is, but fairly certain I'll need spacers to clear it, and I'd like the additional length on the inlet also. On Emerald's site the adjustables are only available in 45mm. I'm guessing, but I suspect with the 42mm TBs, any reduction in ID is better avoided. Thanks all for the help.

Dave, that's exactly what I want to do, although I was just going to run with 42mm Trumpets too (i.e. no tapered spacer to go to 45). Reason for the spacer is just to let the backplate clear the fuel rail etc. By any chance do you still have the dimensions for making your 30mm spacers? This is for a car I'm buying in England, and I want to swap the air box for a filter before getting it mapped at Emerald on the way home. I'm hoping to get the spacers made over Christmas and take a filter with me and fit it when I lift the car.

Hi Rob, appreciate that, but I've found that the Jenvey parallel spacers, bored whatever ID to suit, at 25mm deep are £27+ Vat each. I'd need 8 to get my required depth, so that works out horrendously expensive. Hi Regin , I didn't want to impose on your genorosity too much, but if you're happy to measure the 45s, that would help massively. I should be able to get my hands on a suitable billet of ali, so just need the dimensions to mill them out accurately. My mate's 45 trumpets, 45-42 taper spacer and 42 spacer all fit the same retaining bolts, so I agree, the 45mm ID and 42mm ID will use the same spacer, just different bore. Time to fire up the Bridgeport.

Answered my own question; available from Jenvey here Not cheap though... Does anyone have the dimensions for the face of a DTH 42mm Jenvey TB? i.e. the relationship of the 3 holes to make spacers? Jenvey used to have drawings on their site, but I can't see them anymore.