Willie.

Arnie, You should be able to knock the steel "mandrel" / pull pin out of the rivet, just need to be careful that you don't damage the GRP by excessive blattering. If you can get someone to hold a block of wood or something against you, it'll give you a much better chance of getting them out without wrecking the show. As far as the grinding is concerned, you'll need to be very careful. Its the mushroom that stops it pulling through, so the more you grind off...the weaker it will be. I'm wondering if you could get a thick countersunk washer, and a put it on the "dirty" side of the pop rivet, so it mushrooms into the countersunk area...then you can bash it mostly flush and skim over. Gets you the same result, only a bit more grab, if you know what I mean. Interesting problem. Willie

The trick with steel rivets in a normal hand gun is to not let the legs go too far apart, as then you can't get the strength to squeeze them together again. Just squeeze in small bits and you'll be fine. Willie p.s. I made brackets to mount my Tillets from the chassis, rather than the floor. Easy enough made.

Arnie, Was thinking about this, and although I initally thought solid rivets would be the ideal job, if its GRP and ali, its likely going to be out in the middle of a panel some place that is awkward to get at both sides to thump the rivet over, and it could be tricky to do without damaging the GRP. Definitely worth looking into, in my opinion. Bearing in mind you have 4000 to do, I'm guessing cost is going to be a bit of a factor...aswell as speed. An alternative might be to use something to give the dome on the outside (Maybe a hollow "solid" rivet, like this here) and then pop rivet into it from the inside. If you could get something like a domed nut, without the nut bit, it would be ideal. I've never used the hollow rivets, so not sure how they look or rivet up when used as a normal solid rivet (i.e. thump the end with a hammer). The other thing you should consider, but again I've never used them, is a kind of screw/nut arrangement which some rivet manufacturers do, see here for example. The difficulty you're going to have is depth, as unless your GRP is very thick, I doubt you could get any more than a few threads width within the thickness of your two panels. If you could do something like run a 1/4" thick bit of flat aluminium bar, say 1/2" wide, along the line of the "rivets", you could stagger them and actually tap the bar and screw in from either side. Major work, but an option if you're stuck. If you have a local model engineers soceity or anything, speak to them about solid rivetting. They'd be able to show you all the options and maybe even lend you what you need. All the best, Willie

Just re-skinned so no lower bonnet catch holes, but the one you're talking about is 118mm from the top chassis tube. That's to the centre of it, and it's a 6mm dia hole. Willie

The 4cylinder or the V6? A 2.5 4cylinder...that's a monster. Willie

here

Undo the lock nut and use a pipe spanner to unscrew the remains of the plastic knob. Find a suitable knob/plastic thing then drill and tap M5 and replace. Saves you £15 on a new cable. Willie

Hi, Tried ringing. Assume someone is on with you. If you haven't got it sorted: Check the cable is fitted ok, the bush thing that fits into the pedal box end is pushed in home and the nipples are located correctly at both the pedal and engine ends. Then check the adjustment end at the engine. There are two nuts on a threaded bit. Undo the nuts to let the throttle spindle relax on its spring. You will find one of the nuts is holding the throttle open. Relax the nut until the throttle spindle rests on the idle screw and is not held open by the cable. Then lock it up with the nut on the other side. Willie

Failing Darren's mate, if your mate could be talked into wrapping in a binbag and tying together for me to have collected...I'd take them. Willie

What do French motorcyclists wear? Willie

Have you considered the crinkle for the seats? If done right, it could look well. Maybe with a leather insert on the seat for a bit of contrast. Willie

Hi Richard, Tried emailing you for pictures, not sure you got it. Interested in a few photies. Thanks, Willie

Yes please. YHM Willie

Half Hood received. Lovely job. Many thanks Mark Willie

Glad it's sorted. Keep on truckin' Willie

Follow the smoke...it won't take long 😬 Willie

Is this a K Series? If so, has the solenoid trigger wire (small wire) at the starter melted to No4 exhaust? Check the wires going to the starter are not bared and touching anything else. Willie Edited by - Opposite Lock on 19 Apr 2010 18:42:10

18psi sounds about right for the front of a Xflow in my opinion. Willie

I'm not 100%, but I think the rear callipers are Ford Granada, the 90s version. Possibly the ugly fish-faced one (Scorpio). Let us know if you find out for sure. Willie

Assuming your car is early/mid 90s, it should have the removable engine bay diagonals. Take them both out. Are you taking the engine and box out, or just the engine? If only engine, support the gearbox under the bellhousing, or near the front anyway. Get someone to steady the engine when its swinging, and push your foot on the clutch pedal to shove the engine apart from the gearbox. There are two dowels (one either side) on the bell housing that can be a right pig to shift if its an old car. Its an easy enough job though. Put some bubblewrap or something around the chassis rails and work out before hand, which way you're going to take the engine once lifted...don't smack the headlamps. Willie

Definetly sounds like dampers. Try AVO or Protech for adjustables. Tyres shouldn't make that big a difference, unless they're almost flat. Check the pressures just to be certain. If they're very soft, you can get bad damper like behavoir. Springs can tire, but you can check them to see. Springs are rated in lbs/inch. So a certain weight (In lbs) compresses the spring an inch. So, to check a 150lb spring is still a 150lb spring, you would measure the open length of it, then set 150lb on it and see if it compresses an inch. If it compresses more than an inch...its tired, so take the measurement and work out what the new rate is. Obviously you don't need to put the full 150lbs on it, you could use 75lb and expect it to move 1/2". Dampers can be confusing to get your head around, I'm still trying and know nothing. As a basic priniciple though, for your dampers, they should be set to work at the fitted spring rate. That means that as the spring takes the bump then tries to boing out, the damper should provide just the right amount of restriction/damping to calm the sping and let the car settle back to normal. When you see boy racer cars that have been "slammed" on low super stiff springs, you often see them bouncing over things. That's because with the new springs, the old damper is no longer able to control the spring and the spring takes over and does its thing. Similarly, if your dampers are goosed, your springs are still springing, but your dampers aren't damping enough...so you get the bouncey feeling. Ideally, you shouldn't have the damper controlling the spring, or the spring controlling the damper...they should both be working nicely together. It sounds like yours may have fallen out with each other. Hope you get it sorted, Willie

For two Willians, steel buckle, reverse lap, handed, black 3" shoulder with 2" lap the RRP is just under £360. Pricey, especially compared to Caterham's own at £270, but depending on what your use is, its maybe worth it. For me, where I have alot of different people getting in and out, the adjusters at the ends of the belts are important. Willie

Sorry, I replied to your email before reading your reply on here. If it's the one I sent you the link to, and is in good condition with no major marks or the holes drilled by Stevie Wonder, I'll take it. Pity you hadn't listed it last week as I drove up through Taffyland. The A5 at midnight is brilliant. There must only be about 3 people in Wales, and they were all in the pub. Thanks, Willie

Thanks for the advice gentlemen, you persuaded me to go for the Willans, from Linds at Sevenspeed (Formerly Seventweeks). Willie

Mark, YHM. Thanks Willie