Willie.

Is the misfire always there, even when cold? Is the coil close to the exhaust or a source of heat? I've a friend who was constantly getting a misfire, no matter what he did, once the car had warmed up. Like you he replaced the entire ignition system. He then tried putting the coil in the cockpit (Singleseater) in the airflow, and the misfire was gone immediately. When they heat up, coils don't work so good. Willie

Big Dan, Thanks for the link...but really after a K-Series (Possibly Duratec if the right one comes up). Willie

Wanted SV 1800 K Series (all specs), 6 speed box and Black Pack all other options considered. Money is waiting for suitable car. Thanks, Willie Edited by - Opposite Lock on 11 Mar 2010 19:05:16

First question to ask here is if the rear wheels were spinning? If not, then that's the problem. If they were, then it gets a bit trickier. Willie

Nigel, If you want to know for sure, there's a very easy way. Let me drive your car for a weekend and I'll be able to give you a full quarter page report on my findings. My professional service and outcome would put your mind at ease. Feel free to blatmail me to discuss when you would like it collected. Willie

I have one, passenger side, black gelcoat. Brand new, never used, but has been sitting in the study for a year...so a bit dusty. Know you're probably wanting a pair, but if its of interest, your's for £70 + postage. Willie

Good stuff Tim. You're a clean buckejit...but go mad with the Busa if you do go for it. Willie

Thats fighting torque I'd gladly take you on, but I'm sure yours will be built and sold before I'm ready... Willie

Found it. Have a look here. Hope it helps, Willie

Don't do it. Don't spoil a decent seven with a feeble moped engine. Sure you're having to go big cc on the current Busa to get enough go. On a fat boy SV you'd need a low ratio box. RST V6. I know you want it. You know you want it. We all know you want it. Tell Russell you want it. 😬 Willie p.s. Adam Hay's is a Busa Turbo I think...I'll see if I can dig out the link to his online photos

Jonathan, Thanks a million, hadn't spotted that at all...will give them a buzz. That advert must only be on eBay as I've been checking regulary. I contacted the other guy with the set at £200. With these two I could be on a winner. Yeeeeha 😬 Thanks, Willie

Peter, The £100 was me calculating and adding in customs/shipping...but I hadn't considered emmissions. Very, very good point . The changes, if any, could be in the injectors or the mapping, but its not worth the risk. I'll keep trying to find two sets in the UK. Tried a few bike breakers today, but they had nothing. There appears to be at least two different sets of TBs, one with 46mm butterflies, and one with smaller. We're after the 46mm ones, but I'm paranoid of finding small revisions that results in both sets flowing differnetly. Willie

Not fabricating...machining was the plan. Unfortunately its looking too expensive to get them machined by the time you do them right (O-rings, reduced diameter barrels to minimise inertia and so on). We were in talks with a local CNC man, but it looks to have all fallen through. In the interests of good low down control and ease of install, we're now looking at bike TBs. I have a set of Busa bodies here, but they require too much machining to work. The ZX12 bodies look ideal, just requiring some modifcation and a short manifold for the change in section. They happen to be as rare as hen's teeth though. I'd have thought every ZX12 made would've been lying over a ditch by now 😬 Willie

Thanks for the tips guys. Tried Holeshot - only has one set. Maybe I should risk it and get from two separate places. Jonathan, you're not far off it. I'm involved in all kinds of silly projects, this one is a bit secretive, but likely of interest to some people here...so when its finished I'll spill the beans. Til then...keep guessing Willie

Guys, Does anyone know where I could get two sets of ZX12R Throttle Bodies? There is one set on eBay at a colossal £200, and a further set in the States for about £100 all in. Any good Kwak breakers, or anyone able to help? Ideally I'd like to get both together, to get a good deal, and to try and get identical units. Thanks, Willie Edited by - Opposite Lock on 25 Jan 2010 13:02:11

Steve, Thanks. Exactly what I was after. Not what I wanted to hear...but needed to know. Thanks. Willie

Can any of you guys confirm the following: 1) Does the old aluminium flange rivetted to the back panel with 6 rivets, to which the filler neck is screwed, come off (i.e. you need to drill the rivets out)? 2) If yes...do the 6 holes in the new filler cap line up with the old rivet holes? Thanks, Willie

Such a long winded way to say "I've just fitted my callipers and they look spiffing" Can't give you a technical answer to your question...but your brackets do look lovely. If they don't do the job, I'll have them 😬 Willie p.s. If you're really worried about your strength concerns, I'd be more interested in leverage/max force applied and the thickness of your brackets. There are a great number of cast alloy callipers out there, so I'd find out what they're made from and if they're constructed in any way to compensate.

8% or 22%? Narrow or widetrack, and was it from a flared or cycle wing car? All the best, Willie

Dave, Lower mounting? If I remember correctly, there is a small sleeve in the lower damper mounting that reduces it from 1/2" to 5/16" or something tiny. You maybe just need to knock this out and use it in your new damper. Willie

Sold? When does the RST V8 arrive?

Thanks again lads. There was nothing wrong with our MIG, some users were able to create nice welds (Well, as nice as a MIG can be) with it. Other users just made a hash of it. I hate MIG with a passion, and as its me that gets the majority of the welding jobs now, I want a TIG. We can do most stuff with gas or stick, but currently have no means of skillful aluminium welding (Gas ali welding is too hard on my heart). Will keep digging. Hopefully we'll get something and then I get the hang of it. Willie

Kevin, Thanks for the input. Was speaking with a friend and he uses Lincoln, had a look at them online, and they look like a nice machine. Having not used one, I don't know what the feature do or what's essential and what's just nice to have, so reading what I can and trying to work it out. So far I've come up with the following: - AC/DC - Option for watercooled torch - Option for foot pedal - Wide range (5-230) - Good control at low range (But how do you know if this is true?) - High frequency start All the other gubbins, like adjustable post flow and fading out/anti-crater settings...is that stuff you actually would ever adjust? I've a feeling its the sort of thing you would set to the middle and not touch for years, then when you're welding one particular job you'll decide you want to turn one thing down a fraction and then it'll be left for another few years. From digging about I guess you really need to go 3-phase for a daddy of a machine, but can you still get a single phase inverter machine that you would class as "proper"? Willie

Bricol, Thanks for that. Really its me that wants the TIG, for my Dad/Uncle, MIG/Stick is all they'll ever need. The Uncle does all the stick welding, but for any delicate work, I get it. If it was a trailer, it would likely be done with the stick for speed, but we'd still need the TIG to be able to weld heavy stuff for some applications (Like when arc seems a bit too clumsy, but gas would involve too much heat spreading). The main things the TIG would really be used for would be welding sills, making tanks, nifty brackets and the like, in mild and aluminium. I just want to be able to make beautiful coined welds in ali 😬 Thanks for the link, I'll have a good read through that forum. In your opinion, for non industrial use, but for welding the likes of the above, would you reccommend a foot pedal and/or water cooled torch? Willie

Should add, this needs to be single phase. Willie