Willie.

Just did a quick google, sorry...should have before asking. Standard Spitfire/Caterham Solid Disc = 229mm Standard GT6 Solid Disc = 246mm Edited to add: Hi-Spec Sell: 232mm Solid Disc 260mm Solid Disc 280mm Solid Disc - Not listed as their kit The first two of the HiSpec sizes are in their conversion kits for the Caterham, but the 280mm disc is not listed. Apparantly this does, and has been fitted (RST V8 car), perhaps its just too effective on smaller installs, I don't know. Willie Edited by - Opposite Lock on 19 Jul 2009 00:47:57

Graham, Thanks for that. I had heard they fitted, but wasn't sure. Do you remember what diameter they are? I have a pair of Hi-Spec callipers, but they're for Cortina hubs (Got them for my Locost), but think I'll machine an adaptor and use them with bigger discs. Hi-Spec do some real tastey big discs, but keen to keep to affordable, standard, parts if I can. Willie

Says who? You, my friend, need to invest in an angle grinder. 😬 I'm thinking more for the front really, and I'd be willing to make a bracket to move the callipers. I think vented discs are unnecessary on the front of a 7, and Hi-Spec's big discs are a bit pricey for my liking...so looking for alternative suggestions. Willie

Are there any "standard" fitment discs which are a larger diameter but still fit? Keen to get a larger diameter disc, but not keen to pay £100+, wondering if larger dia discs from another car fit? Are GT6 discs any bigger? Willie

Thanks Darren ( ) Was hoping to use a "START" one with a red backlight as the ignition light. Maybe just do it with a blue one...sure it'll match the RT Dash2 better 😬 Willie

Slight hijack here... Can you change the light colour of these switches? Meaning, instead of having a blue light, can you have a red light instead? Willie

Are you positive its the Clutch Release Bearing (CRB)? They don't usually just fail instantaneously like that. What were the symptoms? Maybe someone can confirm 100%, but I think the CRB is a standard Ford Sierra part. The CRB & release lever certainly look the same as my old Sierra's. Not sure if this helps, but some pics & details here Willie

Martin, Think your logic is flawed. The configuration is not stored in the map. You need to configure each ECU. It only transfer's map specific details, like fuelling/ignition maps. You need to go into the configuration tool bar and setup the details for the car. My money is on the crank sensor trigger pattern being set incorrectly. If you don't know what this is, shine a torch through the wee hole in the bellhousing (Driver's side) and count the teeth/missing teeth on the back of the flywheel. It's likely a 36-2 (36 with 2 missing) or 36-1. I think a brand new K3 defaults to something like a Ford trigger pattern, which is likely different to what its reading. The other thing is to ensure you've got enough voltage. If its dropping below about 7volts while cranking the ECU could be starting to have trouble working. Connect jump leads or charge the battery to get it up to strength again. If you have an ECU that works, mirror the config in the new ECU. Hope that might help. Willie

Swap the cycle wings from side to side so you don't see the holes, then put the repeaters on the sideskins. Or, you could make a temporary bracket to hang them over the side skin for IVA/MOT purposes and remove them the rest of the time... Willie

Wear sunglasses...it'll be fine. Willie

Have the rear bush bolts (Trailing arms and A-Frame) been torqued when the car was on its wheels with normal payload? Could be that they've been torqued when on stands, or maybe with dampers off and the slow return is due to the rubber bushes having to twist excessively. Willie

Local LR dealer can get me the correct part number, but informs me that the part is now "white" which makes me suspicious that although he may be getting to the part via the number I gave...it could be a different part that supercedes the one I want. Just wondered if the ones on eBay are the same as the grey light spring ones, or if they are something totally different...as the part numbers are not the same. Willie

Hello, I'm after one of these grey 82deg landrover remote thermostats. Local dealership can get me one, but says "Oh, but they're white now". Obviously I want the right, 82deg light spring one. Does anyone know if this one here is the same? The correct part number is PEL500110, according to here On ebay the parts numbers are: PEL100990 PEM100990 Does anyone know if they're all the same, or does anyone have a source of the correct one? Willie

Hi, Does anyone have a new PRT/PRRT, pressure relief remote thermostat as fitted to Elises/Caterhams? I'm after the "normal" grey 82deg one, with light spring and part no. PEL500110 Anyone have one they're not using and willing to sell on? Willie

You should be fit to see a drip if you get under it. Could also be the speedo drive takeoff. Willie

I took the spare wheel off and kept the carrier, for a couple of reasons. Mainly because I was lazy and didn't want to start chopping it, and also because my tent fits the carrier absolutely perfectly. When I go camping, that's where the tent lives. Standard practice is to braze in small stubs to the remaining tube and make the carrier removeable rather than gone. As far as protection is concerned, I think it would give a bit, but not a massive amount. Its only really held by one bolt, so the only advantage it has is to spread a thump across it's surface area...but personally I reckon the frontal area of a Mondeo is big enough. I would add some strength because it touches against 3 tubes, but I certainly won't be loosing any sleep over it when I chop my carrier off in a few weeks. Willie

Nope, but are these for your 7, and road use? If so, let me know how you get on. Wonder how these are for all round road use, compared to 888s. Pressure will depend on the car, engine/weight etc, so might be worth giving some more details. For what its worth, I'd start at 17 all round and see how it feels. Willie

Contact Bill Shurvington (07788432735), as he supplies them and is fantastic to deal with. Really knowledgable guy and was the cheapest when I was shopping around for mine. Willie

Lads, Currently making a rear exit exhaust system, but the car will eventually have wide rear wings. Can anyone tell me if the angle of the bottom of the wings is the same as the narrow/standard ones? Or is it less of an angle as I suspect? If someone has wide rear wings (The Redline ones, preferably) and could even measure the angle, I would be most grateful. Thanks for any help, Willie

No alternative for new, that I know off. Joachim from Wetermann Motorsport might have a few good ones though. Alternatively, if you're after a 5spd, I'd thoroughly reccommend Steve Perks at SPC. He'll build a smashing semi-helical box with ratios that will likely suit the Duratec much better, and it won't be ridiculously expensive either. Willie

S Type or Pre S Type? I seem to remember both my Pre S Types weighed in at just under 9kg, together. Willie

Regroo, YHM. Well you should. Willie

I'm no electrics guru, but my first check would be a short. Any of the positives to starter touching an earth, or any wires near the exhaust that have melted/touched? Willie

Why not have a brief, one line description of the users car(s) underneath location. Something like: 94 DeDion 1.8k SS 6spd Willie

Now now boys and girls, play nice 😬 Thanks for the prices lads, nice to get an idea of how much it costs in reality. Willie