Willie.

Hi, Yip, that sounds perfect. I'll blatmail you my address so you can work out the P&P cost. Thanks very much. If anyone else has more, I'm still interested in another 1 or 2. Willie

Long shot, but anyone got one, two or three that they're not using and wouldn't mind parting with? Maybe someone that's done a one off tour or sold their car? I'm going touring in August and trying to get 3 (Ideally) before heading away. Thanks Willie

Further to my post above, I've emailed Jonathan and understand that the current order (Which he has received and is getting organised to send) has already all been taken...and a reserve list on too. It's a long shot, but as I'm at the bottom of the list, if anyone has changed their mind or is in no panic and it suits them to wait to the next batch (Assuming there will be another batch), could you please let Jonathan or myself know? I'll stick a post in wanted aswell. I wouldn't have time pre-tour to wait for the next batch, so I could end up having to go for the eBay Tool Tube versions which cost 3 times the price ☹️ That's the penalty for not being organised enough I suppose.

I'd be interested in 3...but I'd need them early August (Going touring). I'll BM Jonathan to see what the chances are.

Ok...confession time. Just double checked my own radio was still on channel 7...and it wasn't. I'd obviously knocked it onto channel 6 by mistake. So it's working now, the 3207 was programmed ok...it was just me being a nit. Thanks for the help Mike & Ian.

Thanks very much Mike. The freq you've typed shows an oddball character on my screen, I assume you mean 446.08125? Frustratingly, that's what this is set at...but it's just not working. I assumed I must've had the frequency wrong. It has a scan function, and I can get it to scan and receive the radio in my car, but I just can't program it so that I can get it to transmit to mine. Lost now.

Thanks Ian, this one is a bit of a funny set up, it's a 3207, so lots of bonkers functions and no way of manually doing it (By the holding in button thing). Has to be programmed through the PC. I reckon I need to know the frequency of channel 7. I'm fairly sure sub channel 7 is 85.4hz, but I don't know what the main frequency is. Anything I've tried isn't working (446.08125, 462.7125 and 448.08125)

Hi folks, Trying to set a fellow Seveners radio to the same channel as the rest of us. It's a newer model and isn't as simple as the old TK3101 set up. Can anyone tell me the actual frequency of 7-7? Or if anyone has a TK3101 manual, I'd like a look at it as I think it has a table in it. I can only find the US version and I think it's different. Thanks, Willie

Scott, Go for it; better than watching TV. Personally I'd try to keep the filter close to the TB end and use "rammed" air to fill the oversized pipework to it. At low car speed there's probably going to be little advantage (Possibly disadvantage), but as speed increases you'd get a benefit...assuming you're not restricting the flow as MOCA2CV says. I would, however, say there's nothing wrong with the convoluted hose (Except looks) as I imagine that inside, each ripple will cause some turbulance and effectively reduce the diameter to be somewhat less that the true ID. Use big enough hose and you should be ok. You should investigate the early Supersport inlet manifold, these put the TB at the front of the engine, so much easier to work something from this position. I have never experimented, but I also imagine that the bonnet louvers would be in an area of low pressure at any car speed, so would have a detremental affect on the inlet air...although that's just my hunch and I could be wrong (I was wrong once before 😬).

Mark; found the ideal car. Doesn't need much work though here

Have you seen the CSR or SV chassis on ebay? Can't mind which it is, but it was only £100 when I saw it. Black, damaged.

Thanks very much Roger. I have a multimeter, just not a great deal of knowledge on how to use it. I'll get the 15R & 18R and do as you say. I'll report back on the results. Showing the extent of my ignorance now, but is it current that requires you to put the multimeter in series with the light?

Hi Roger, thanks very much for the reply and extremely helpful explanation. I've no idea about electronics but keen to get a handle on it, so that really helps. Just measured, so the 9v battery is showing 8.8v and the car battery is 12.8v. There was a significant difference between these two, so the brighter I could run it the better. Have looked at your calculation and reckon taking alternator output as 14.7v and light at a "safe" 10v, again assuming your 0.3a, 4.7v/0.3a = 15.6r Increasing the light to the full 11.2v (With 14.7 alt output) gives 11.6r, so I reckon I should be ok to try the 15R one. On the power side; 4.7v x 0.3a = 1.41w and 3.5v x 0.3a = 1.05a, so again the 3watt should be fine. Given that this is the first time I've even thought about this stuff; does that make sense to you? Don't worry, if I blow it up with the 15R I've only myself to blame, but just checking I did the sums correctly.

Have had one of those 52 LED lamps sitting for ages, and only today ordered the loom from Caterham to get it fitted. What's the purpose of the resistor; is it to drop the voltage to stop the LEDs popping? I tried mine on the car battery (Not running) and it was lovely and bright, compared to the 9V battery, which was quite dull in comparison.

Just checked, it was Michael McNally and £35+vat

Mine's the same, LH ear piece isn't working. Contacted Sensorcom and they quoted something like £35+vat for standard repair charge. Might have been more, maybe even £40. Mine is still not working - thought that was a bit steep. Just ordered the bits to make some ear defender types now we're aeroscreened, so will investigate further then. I'll report back if I find out what the fault is.

Microlight users cope - I don't know what I'm missing... Wings I would've thought 😬 The headstrap was the other advantage; my passenger had no problems, but I near lost my cap a few times when I forgot and looked up.

Ian, using a pair of the standard buds. When I got the headsets I decided to try them first, and got on well. Do the custom buds make much difference to sound quality and deading of exterior noise?

Ian, just to update a slightly old thread, but as you didn't get a reply I thought I'd chime in. I've just done about 500miles over the last two days, aeroscreened with my Sensorcom in-ear boyos. I had used them previously on a windscreened car and they were perfect. Yesterday & today I found that I struggled to hear transmissions from other cars via radio; wereas my passenger (Ear defender type) could understand them much easier. I also have been home for quite a few hours now and my hearing is still not back to normal. Have decided to build a set of ear defender types and leave the Sensorcoms for windscreen use (If I ever go back).

Looking for 2 Autocom Headsets; ideally helmet fitting kits to DIY fit into Peltor ear defenders. May also be interested in ear defender types if cheap enough.

Any discount on your other item for sale? Too short for you? 😬

It's in a refreshed engine with honed bores and new rings, trying to get them well bedded in. Thanks very much for the feedback, I'll pass that on (Although he's probably already read it!). I think the best bet is that he lets me run it in... 😬

Any experience of Millers Competition Running In Oil? Mate is just about to fire up his K Series and is wondering what the consensus is on how many road miles to run it for? Thanks, Willie

Here for link to pics of Stu's set up.

That's not so bad, just thought you'd maybe meant the front ARB. Just my twisted mind playing tricks on me 😬