grumpy the 7th

I'm off to Europe for a month in the car and along with all the spare bits I've a new alternator belt. Has anybody done it? I'll describe how I *think* it could be done at the road side. Looking at it with the two oil pipes through the belt it looks a bit like a Chinese puzzle. But I guess I can remove the Apollo top breather and it's top oil feed and pull this from the 'wrong' side of the metal radiator pipe to the Apollo. Then slacken the Apollo jubilee clip and lift the Apollo and slide the new belt over the lot and refix everything in reverse before adjusting the tension on the belt? I wouldn't want to find I've missed a procedure whereby more pipe work has to come off as I'm not carrying 7.5 litres of spare oil (unless I remove her kit bag from the boot) Have I assumed anything that's not achievable Cheers

Just incase you didn't see the last replies, The stay is a bayonet type fixing, so you could try twisting the flat wings on the outer part of it to see if the body latches into the housing. Also as SM25T says adjust from the throttle body adjuster.

The stay is a bayonet type fixing, so you could try twisting the flat flanges on the outer part of it to see if it latches in to the housing. Also adjust from the throttle body adjuster.

DON'T go 2 psi more in 1 go but when you get to 22 psi, let us know what you think. You could even try another 1 for good luck. (I've not done so yet)

I blame the EU safety rule makers & the Brit government for not knowing sh!t from sugar when it come to common sense. Grrrr! for the lack of AO212's because they're too noisy at 73dB (just look at your wheely bins they're limited to 90 dB) It'll be the same with the auto speed limiters coming with the 2022 edition of 'How to be an arse when in power' Rant over............................... Back to the question. I've now reluctantly gone the Rainmaster 3 route and YES they do roll when turning in and leaning into corners. Your backside moves sideways even before you turn the wheel. I used to run my 21's at around 15psi and found them more than firm enough to trust on corners. I've been increasing the pressures on the rainmaster 3's by 1psi after a few blats over the past few months. I've now got to 22psi where I think the car has almost the same feel as before. HoHum

If the sump plug is M14 (19mm socket) what size copper washer do you need?

I had similar issues. I simply got a metal bar, drilled it with 2 holes the same size as the stud diameter at 4.25" apart and bolted it to the hub. The metal bar rested on the floor, the bar did begin to bend but I managed to crack the big nut (on the hub, not me)

Do any of you suffer from wetness under the floor mats? I took mine out many many years ago after finding the floor was always wet under them. (most likely as a result of ingress of rain through the heater vents when parked up) On one trip to Skye I found a good few inches of water in each footwell after a night of heavy rain. I subsequently drilled a couple of 1/8th inch holes in each floor so that what comes in now goes out. I also have a bit of vinyl which I place under the bonnet and over the heater box (and air filter which once got so wet that the engine wouldn't run with any revs) I've had bare ali ever since and find the only bit of dampness now is behind the seat rail where the seat bases touch the floor. (must get my "Caterham bladder" sorted)

When you do the relay mod DO USE a SPDT (single pole double throw) 60 amp 12 volt one. AND replace the thick red wire to the solenoid with either a thicker one or at least a new cable (mine had gone black and brittle) Ooer Fatal error to say this BUT I changed a couple of 30 amp ones before fitting a 60 amp relay a good many years ago. On inspection when opening up the relays the contacts were showing signs of spiking and pitting (and there's NOTHING like 30 amps passing through the relay contacts)

Hi, Saki,thanks for the input. That's a bit big to carry in the 7 for nearly 4 weeks round Spain, France, Italy & back but I've looked at the noco GB40, Tracklite T8 and a few others. Should also mention I've got the Powervamp PC680 drycell. Thanks again Jonathan, The Smartbox 6s looks like it'd do a job but it only has a 12v jump start output, no standard 12v o/p for other ancillaries . I've also found the Beatit range doh...................

Researching this is a minefield Far too many products out there and non consistently coming out in the top three. Reading many reviews. I tend to look for good reviews then look at the 1* and try to decipher the wheat from the chaff. (genuine problems or just silly gripes) Might be simpler to keep the jump leads for touring holidays and look for a passing motorist· But! I'll keep looking

Thanks Jonathan, that'll keep me going for a day or two 7 minutes to reply, Wow! you must really in full time employment whats your job description? "diligent blatchat reader and commentator"

Has anybody got experience of these things? They seem far too small and lightweight to cope with starting a car with a flat battery. It's suggested they can be kept in the glove box (yes some are that small) for whenever you might need it. Do they work or are they snake oil? How long do they hold their charge for? Whats the cranking output? How many starts of your car does do before it needs recharging? Presumably it'd run a mobile phone / sat nav for ever?? If they're capable of holding a charge for a month or so and then still capable of starting your car they'd be a good extra to pack when touring in far off lands. I do have an Aukey 20000mAh (2 Amp) power pack but I don't think this would start a car

Hi, Midas. Once you know I'll know also ....................................... How do you find them ???????????????? I've had Yoko' AR21s for the last 15 years and ran them at 15 psi (ish) Since they were deemed tooooo noisy by the powers that (think) they be. (they're actually quieter than your household wheelie bin ) I went the Rainmaster 3 route (mostly road use and often wet here in the peak district) They're definitely not good at 15 psi !!!!! The walls seem faaarrr too soft and the car seems to lurch on cornering. ( the car appears to keep it's line but the body roll gives a different impression) I've ended up with 21 psi which still seems soft (having said that the tyres are meant to be soft - SO! I'm still trying to get accustomed to the movement) I knew exactly (mostly ) what was going on underneath my bottom with the 21's. But now I'm not sure what my bottom is telling me . Perhaps a bit more spirited driving will get me used to what they're doing?

Nick, There's a few bits missing, it's not looking complete. Hope it gets sorted. ps. check your silencer where the inlet is welded, it looks like there's a slight crack in the front plate. (I had the same but didn't notice so I've got more repair weld than you'll need) rog

Cheers, ste_dot rog

Slight hijack............ can you remove the alternator without taking the exhaust primaries off to get it out of the engine bay??

Drill a few 1/8" holes in the floor. I did that after a very wet week on the Isle of Skye. the foot wells would have an inch of rain in them most mornings. The rain gets in via the heater inlet, I now put a bit of old hood vinyl (about 1' 6" x 1') under the bonnet and over the heater inlet (and cover the throttle air intake) as that can become very wet and soggy causing the same effect as leaving the choke out..... Also ditch the rubber mats as they're always wet under them even in a summer without rain. Oh and lift the seats and dry under them every morning. Or buy a snorkel. Yes! my car does go out in the rain but gets a drying before setting off. Oh........... soooo much looking forward to sunny Spain late this year :-)

Is your throttle air intake wet, dirty, blocked? I've had a thoroughly wet foam filter that caused the same symptoms. Just like having the choke fully out on an old car.

If you remove the go faster stripes you'll loose power. I'll get me coat *tumbleweed*

Quoting The_ASH "Another thing I've heard suggested that can sap K power is incorrect oil level if overfilled it doesn't clear the foam quick enough and thrashes around in the crank case absorbing power and creating heat" Get rid of the foam!!!!!!!! - and do the 2 holes in the gasket mod. plenty of posts under "foam or baffle etc"

Did you forget a green with grey wings (pictured 2 posts up in YoSDeNS post)

Hi Redlight, Thanks for your replies, Just wish the AO21's (had various sets over the last 15 years) were not condemned by the bureaucrats!!!!!!!!!!! Looking around at Donnington there were only about 6 cars with the Rainexpert 3's and 2 with the Nanking NS2R's. Still LOADs of cars with AO21's (just wish I'd bought a couple of sets before the dissapeared, Many had the R888's which I feel might not be for me as "Upt Norf" in the Dales we get plenty of the cold and wet stuff. The Uniroyals seemed to 'loose' a bit on the Donnington slalom on a car I know which was driven by a very competent driver. But never saw a Nanking tyred car on the tarmac so cant compare. Just wish I'd got more rubber left on the 21's

Baslow to Owler Bar road, Thursday about 2:30 pm you were on a good overtake on my side of the road but didn't flash as you might have thought I was flashing you for another reason

T'was me Sir! On my way back to Derbyshire from Chepstow after doing the famous Fish & Chip run. Thought we'd take the long route home through the Welsh green and pleasant land. Looks like you were far away from home?