grumpy the 7th

Mav Is it free & easy? It's only got one return spring - does that make a difference?? I'm interested rog 01909486999 rog C7 TNT (it's dynamite)

K series throttle body with butterfly that doesn't stick & is free & easy and doesn't leak air. Mine sticks closed & doesn't shut properly. Only want the bit that goes between the air filter & the plenum. please give details, price etc or donation to LTL rog C7 TNT (it's dynamite)

Hi you three - nifty, fordy & angus&tessa After finding out a new iacv was loadsa money i poked & hoped & tried again -Yes the bloody piston did shoot out!!! & I found the spring at the bottom of a dark, oily & spidery dingy pit! - "sod it - That's broken it now" I thought!!! I put it back together as best I could & tried again with my thumb over the plunger this time. Turning the ignition on & off caused the plunger to retract with the ignition on & come out with the ignition off. (keeping thumb over the end) it just vibrated (steady girls) and the held there. So I thought I'd put it back & hope I'd not bu@@ered it! Following your three's advice I looked for something 'electrical' & air 'pipey' to the ECU. This is where I get technical (NOT) I found a single unprotected blue(ish) wire coming out of the loom which I thought was shorting on the back edge of the block. This proved to be ok (no cut insulation) BUT I followed this to a sensor in the water rail. (to the tune of the foot bone's connected to the ankle bone song) {radiator top hose, connected to the metal water pipe on exhaust side, tee off to wussey heater, tee off to sensor with two pink & black wires, tee off to sensor with one 'BLUEish wire, then pipe connected to block} The sensor with the single blueish wire has a loose nylon inner where the spade terminal connector comes out of. THIS TURNS THROUGH 120 DEGREES (I don't think this should happen !!!!!!) Anyways' - I start the engine & 'twiddle' the spade connector through it's 120 degs - GUESS WOT?? - the engine revs & de-revs according to how much I twiddle WOT IS THIS SENSOR ???????? - (WATER TEMP)????? - water temp gauge never flickers, it always stays (once hot) as near as damn it @ 78-80 degs. Once I know what it is - I'll get a new one & see what happens next. I'm not able to read this @ work - but feel free to email me @ 'roger.heeley@bt.com' - so I might be able to source one & try it before the snow comes thanks for the help rog C7 TNT (it's dynamite)

testing

Hi 1.6ss Kseries oct/2000 I've got the same problem I had some months ago - but probably worse now.. I was experiencing excessive tickover revs when lifting off & i was advised various solutions (one seemed to cure it - The airfilter was overtightened on the plastic plenum). I still occasionally got excessive revs & a quick blip of the throttle returned the revs back to 1k rpm. After an exhuberant blat over the weekend the idle revs increased to over 3k !!!! & blipping the throttle had no response (infact the engine sounded as if it was choking) eventually it 'sorted itsef out - but going home through the town centre on a saturday afternoon ... it kept cutting out (something it's never done) From my previous questions I was advised to check the IACV and check it was free to slide in & out.. I removed it & found it was very sfiff & needsd some force to 'ease' it out. (I have now found out that the K series iacv is an electric 'stepper' motor type rather than a spring solenoid type!!!!!!) I put it back & started it up - IT REVED AT 3 to 4 K REVS!!!!! - I took it out & 'eased' the 'plunger' thing further out so it mated with the flange in the plenum & then rescrewed it up. THIS TIME IT REVED @ 1K SO I took it for another blat & for the first 20 25 miles everything was 'onky dory' (lift off & revs dropped immediately to 1K every time) on the last run home I lifted & the bloddy thing started reving @ 2k revs SO is it heat related ???? (temp gauge always reads just below 80C) CAN I test the IACV & HOW ???? I've asked on the se7ens & nese7ens list and basically two thoughts 1) change IACV & hope it cures it (costly if it doesn't) 2) Change MEMS for an Emerald !!!!! to do away with the iacv (author also reconned I'd get another 10 bhp & smoother responses)??? 2a) wots involved? 2b) wot else needs changing? 2c) would I forever be 'reprogramming' the emerald? 2d) would it cure this problem? 2e) would it create another problem? 2f) how much would it cost? 2g) might it be something else? rog (still smiling) *wink* rog C7 TNT (it's dynamite)

No !!!!!!!! - I do it during my screen break ..................... rog rog C7 TNT (it's dynamite)

Any chance of building a different link to blatchat without the words 'chat', 'talk' or 'gossip' etc as everything like this is firewalled at work!! rog C7 TNT (it's dynamite)

Thanks to all who replied last time $64000 question...... after measuring with the 'string method' (plumb line & measure to edge of rim) I've got three set of measurements after rolling the car back & forth three times - all about there or therabouts!! - Near side = average of 7.5mm wider at the bottom Off side = average of 9mm wider at the bottom. (bearing in mind that it's this side with the 'play' I suppose it's bound to be a bit wider as the top falls inwards)????? SO!!! if I replace the off side & get it to something like 7.5mm (+/- a turn)?? WILL THAT DO ???????? - don't know what the angle is but it's about 355 mm diameter just inside the rim lip..... WILL I HAVE TO 'FIGHT' THE UPPER & LOWER WISHBONES APART + ROLL BAR (or will it go with normal persuasion & a bit of grunt + a shilling in the swear box????) I used to tackle anything - but now I like to ask before I break it!!!!!!!! me again rog C7 TNT (it's dynamite) - North of Watford & South of Leeds

New car - new challenges! How do you get to the upper front wishbone ball joint? its inaccessible 'cos of the mud guard bracket. What size is the nut?? (15/16" or 21 mm)?? presume a ring spanner? as sockets are too big to get in. Do I have to take the wheel / disc &/or bearing off to get to it???? - 'cos there's still not much room between the inner side & the bodywork..... Is the wishbone / rst of the suspension under any tension?? will I have to fight the top arm into submission to get it back into position?? or is it straight forward??? Then - how do I get the castor angle about right at home -(also assuming I have to assemble, then check, then dis-assemble etc. etc until it's about the right angle??? (& what should it be & how do you measure it)??? - Assuming you have to get everything off to get to it - Does the place with the tracking / castor measuring equipment have to get everything off again to adjust it accurately ??????? Will it need re tracking??? Any / All ideas welcomed...... rog C7 TNT (it's dynamite) - North of Watford & South of Leeds

Just an 'ad lib' from this ........CALLING CHRIS W (reckon you got a photo of almost anything that moved last sunday @ Belvoir) have you got "C7 TNT" (dynamite) anywhere ??????? (roger.heeley@bt.com) Good idea about the light buzzer - what's the cct???? I've wired up an indicator buzzer that works a treat (2x diodes & a buzzer <£2.00) + 2 wraps of sticky tape over the buzzer to 'soften'the noise!!!! rog rog C7 TNT - North of Watford & South of Leeds

stupid I know as I'm new to this game................ BUT i had exessive idle speed & curedths by reducing the tension on the air filter (I'd knocked off the air filter when 'fiddling' so TIGHTENED IT SO IT WOULDN'T COME LOOSE AGAIN - down side was it reved like f*** but the filter didn't move. I've now loosened it & don't touch the air filter & all seems OK? rog rog C7 TNT

Paul I've only had my caterham 2 months & am learning all the time - but I always toe & heel in my 'proper car! (in reallity! ball of foot on brake & twist my foot so the side of my foot can blip the throttle). In the cat I've had to move the brake to the left so I could press the throttle without fouling the brake. The downside of this is I couldn't reach the throttle when twisting my foot. SO! I found that a bit of plumbers waste pipe (think it's 1.5" but could be 2")???? just fits over the ring at the end of the throttle. I cut a piece about 1.3/4" drilled a 3/4" dia hole through the side (1/2" from one end & then cut a slot to the hole & pushed the pipe over the throtle ring so that the slot went around the throtle lever & the hole fitted round the lever, with the longer end towards the left. That now means that I've widened the throtle ring to about 1.3/4" I can now blip the left hand side of the throtle as I press the brake. Simple! now all I have to do is learn how to drive it hard enough to get the benefit! rog rog C7 TNT

You all must have got bored with same questions last year re my size 9's !!!!!!!!!& toe & heeling ??????? - bend the brake pedal away from the fast pedal so that your foot just goes between the rhs & the brake (then put some waste pipe {just fits) over the go pedal to extend it left) ALSO - try PUMA trainers - they're 1.5 cm narrower (the look on the girls face in JJB when SWWBO Anne said "could you drive in them dear") rog

Thanks to every one who replied to my previous ramblings! (size 9 feet {try Puma trainers!}, ali or paint, 1.6 or 1.8 etc, etc) - I've done the deed & got a 1.6 SS with loads of extras *biggrin* *biggrin* 6 speed, wide track, big front brakes, roll bars, Apollo, Momo, FIA bar (did have 4 Mags but now 5 new 14" alloys & new tyres). Oh & cycle wings - [just love to see the wheels go round & round & up & down] I'm expecting to collect it from Caterham Midlands very soooooooooooon! when I go for a 'fitting' (I've already sorted a route home and the nearest I get to the M1 is when I cross it!). Already primed a neighbour to get his ear plugs (he's got an absolutely pristine, shiney, polished 1989 German 911 thingy! & an Italian red Ducatti thingy) - Does any body know where I can hire 'incontinent pants' 😳 I've got to learn to drive it! *eek* Also hope it's not raining as I don't know how to get in with the hood up...........Or get out??????? Thanks to all 7ers at the Royal Oak - Ulley, Sheffield. especially Nick (who suggests I put in a standing order at the beany hat shop] rog rog

I'm still looking...... (Steve B.... I'm still contemplating polished ali) 🤔 🤔 🤔 rog rog

Hi Did K young get back to you??? if not please send details rog rog

I'm about to become a first time buyer . 😬. . .. what's on offer?? - AND can anyone tell me if the prices quoted at Caterham's factories are negotiable or as per 'car supermarket prices' ie price you see is the price you pay?? please copy any replies to my work address @ 'roger.heeley@bt.com' cheers rog rog

Steve why is it aluminium? I've heard they need constant 'mothers' elbow grease ???? - - - - what does anyone else think??? but sounds just what I'm after , but don't know about the colour ???? - could you possibly email some piccies to my work address 🤔 'roger.heeley@bt.com' cheers rog rog

Steve why is it aluminium? I've heard they need constant 'mothers' elbow grease ???? - - - - what does anyone else think??? but sounds just what I'm after , but don't know about the colour ???? - could you possibly email some piccies to my work address 🤔 'roger.heeley@bt.com' cheers rog rog

What's the difference in the roadsport & supersport? I'm trying to get insurance & one company informed me to make sure I got a roadsport & not the supersport (or is it the other way round)??? as it makes a difference to the premium. I am looking for a 1.8 - 140 bhp & assumed that all cars of this capacity & bhp would be the same premium! (excluding the superLIGHT)! Other companies don't seem to worry about the bhp of the car, others do. Some include track days & others don't and different anual mileages are quoted by them all.......... *confused* *confused* rog heeley PS. thanks Nick Henstock for the short blat in your's any info & replies can be sent to me @ work 'roger.heeley@bt.com' rog

Ian cheers for replying to my info question. where are you?? you can get me @ work on 01142687587 & email @ roger.heeley@bt.com or @ home 01909486999 (I don't go on email & home very often!) regards rog heeley rog