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Neil66

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Everything posted by Neil66

  1. Neil66

    Live axles

    Quoting elie boone: Neil, your Yahoo mailaddress bounces back, send me a pm with another mail address please PM sent 😬 - maybe it's the file size?
  2. Neil66

    4 Point Harness

    Schroth from DT, for Caterham, spot on, pull the correct way ;) Edit - oops, re read your post and saw you wanted 3" shoulder straps... Schroth's are 4" sorry... Personally I prefer the larger strap to spread the load ;) Edited by - Neil66 on 12 Aug 2012 21:25:57
  3. Neil66

    Mech OPG

    Quoting Sandy: ...it takes a similar time for the reading to drop when the engine is killed... Yup, definitely a plugged or choked line - as you say check for kinks / nips first ;)
  4. Neil66

    Mech OPG

    Sunds like it could be a partially plugged line throttling the gauge response... Try breaking off the gauge end and starting the engine to flush through a couple of hundred millilitres of oil...?
  5. Quoting Z3MCJez: Quoting Grubbster: 175 on the front 205 on the rear, I expect 205 will go on a 6" rim OK. I bought mine from CC, no deals anywhere on CR500's (that I know of), nice tyres though. I find that very difficult to believe. Race R300s have 8" rear wheels. The 175 goes on a 6" - 30mm is a lot more. Jez My2p... 205's definitely go on a 6" rim no worries... Little wide so some squirming but works fine. My car has 205's all round by previous owner 6" fronts & 7" rears. Ok but not ideal and somewhat over tyred at the front... Just got a nice front set of 185/60's to sort it out though... 175's also will go on a 6" nae probs... I've had 175/50's on an 8-1/2" rim when I used to play with minis... Very tight and very rigid. When they let go they do so suddenly but makes for some very nice tight handling if your reactions are quick enough... Edited by - Neil66 on 19 Jul 2012 22:57:18
  6. Another +1 for this suggestion I believe...! Edited by - Neil66 on 11 Jul 2012 13:43:32
  7. Are you looking for Binx nuts for originality or just for locking purposes - if just for locking purposes & the studs Allen points to are okay off the shelf - how about these or these nuts? ETA 2nd link Edited by - Neil66 on 11 Jul 2012 12:41:51 Edited by - Neil66 on 11 Jul 2012 12:42:40
  8. Neil66

    ACTA mini

    Quoting Harry Flatters: Any other day I would have this like a shot +1 Now that's MY kinda Mini - like it lots - but should have kept the bumpers & glass seals
  9. Quoting Golf Juliet Tango: BTW: I clicked throughto "Tapatalk" and their home page fails to explain what it is or does. It's an app that translates a web forum into a mobile / touchscreen friendly interface - I guess it would be a big project though for the custom built forum that BC is... Still, making the site a bit more fat-finger-device friendly would be a good thing
  10. Quoting Golf Juliet Tango: Blatchat works pretty well on my (old) Android tablet. I don't get redundant space. There is a quirk when posting but I confident that this is a browser issue. Yeah it works well on my iPad too but it's not finger friendly... Often need to zoom to hit the next page etc... Would be ace with a mobile version 😬
  11. Quoting chazsnell: Could the Tapatalk API be built in? Just an idea... +2...
  12. Bump / BTTT my laptop hdd just sh*t itself so I'm relegated to the iPad for a while now... BC is not really a finger friendly UI...
  13. And if your Dutch is not too good try here 😬
  14. Quoting Mr Locust: I'll bet I can break harder than you whilst you are tasking your brain with all the heel and toe stuff. But can you. Aside from the 'tasking the brain' aspect, if you are already braking to the limit for both axles i.e. braking as late as is possible (assume near perfect brake balance for the conditions), a notchy downshift will be enough to cause a rear wheel to skid due to the more harsh, intermittent application of engine braking torque from the downshift. If you overlap braking and turn in are you compromised by uncertain rear grip on downshifting? +1 Smoothness is THE key when floating on the limit... dumping the clutch without matching revs aint smooth in the slightest... practice enough and it becomes a reflex action - you don't even need to think about it...
  15. Quoting myothercarsa2cv: How long have the balljoints been in there? It might be corrosion? Try a can of plus gas plus one for plus gas - totally great stuff
  16. Even cheaper... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Viscous-Fan-Hub-Spanner-36mm-/280791505023?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41607a587f
  17. Quoting Myles: I'd hope/expect that you'd be able to identify any obvious interference issues while turning the engine over by hand when doing the timing Yeah I would have thought so but this doesn't include stretch at 7000 rpm... Not sure how much that would be but if at zero rpm you have zero or very close to zero clearance then what would that reduce to at 7k... Edited by - Neil66 on 23 May 2012 12:11:31
  18. Interesting post Rob - do you know if this includes the bog-standard cams?? I have a 2.0 blacktop and I'm darned sure the cam timing is out.. Previous owner fitted a set of verniers & I'm not sure it's done right - seems low on power & exhaust really chuffs... I need to replace the cam pulley bolts so at the same time I'll pull off the cam cover & dial the cams using the standard ford tools. However, after that I'd hoped to get on a rolling road & optimise them... Do I risk a valve / piston clash in such an attempt? Maybe I should just order a 250 zetec from raceline & be done with it £££££ 😳 Edited again 'cause I can neither type nor spell... Edited by - Neil66 on 23 May 2012 12:08:56
  19. Quoting Paul Deslandes: Please Sir, can we have a technical Wiki on Blatchat? +1 *thumbup* There's so much useful info in this site that it really could do with organising into a more formal arrangement such as a wiki.. Just imagine the hours of fun distilling all the knowledge, experience, tips & tricks out there into wikis!!!! Formatting edit Edited by - Neil66 on 14 May 2012 13:20:46
  20. Neil66

    Helicoil advice

    Take it to a machine shop and have it done right - if you absolutely must do it yourself - use a timesert, not a helicol... 😬
  21. Quoting Johnty Lyons: I have to overhaul boat trailers all the time which are completely rusted up being in salt water. Good business for you but bad to the owners... there's no need to go deeper then the sidewall...!
  22. You could try one of the many free cad packages out there especially in linux but they could take a little learning... Edited to remove some waffle as I didn't read the whole message! If you have visio, just make your own symbols & save them to a template - I'm making a wiring diagram just now in AutoCAD & making all my own symbols - most car wiring diagrams don't really stick to proper symboling anyway (at least the old Haynes diagrams ;-) Edited by - Neil66 on 7 May 2012 22:28:56
  23. Neil66

    "Old" Moto Lita

    And just to close the thread;-) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/7006993971_54fcac89b0.jpg Edited by - Neil66 on 3 May 2012 22:56:07
  24. Quoting Johnty Lyons: I miss triple C... He still writes excellent stuff in Track Driver Thanks Johnty - good tip just got the iPad app ;-) It's hard to keep up with things when out of the UK scene for so long! Still miss triple c as a whole package not only Dave's articles though great they were (are) ;-) Looked fwd to it dropping through the letterbox every month...
  25. Neil66

    Brake Pads

    Definitely front... The pedal goes long & soft but does not pump up & the brakes still work but not as well. Added the rank honk of burning pads and I'm pretty much convinced the overcooking is 99% a pad problem. Changing the pads alone would probably have cured this according to what I've been told, but as I said I wanted to go better feel overall.. Moving to alloy hubs & calipers & larger discswill help with the heat dissipation & I'm quite certain that even for my spirited road driving vents are not needed... Time will tell & the upgrade path is long & varied!
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