simonpa
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Everything posted by simonpa
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Lol - indeed! Smiffy - in the meantime, if you use a bit of stiff wire, you can probably check where the boss is located by poking around through your existing hole. You can see the rear one in this pic - the front is just out of the image, but should be the same configuration: http://www.therollcagepeople.com/picts/DSCN0530.JPG
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Smiffy - where in Hants are you? Drilling enough rivets from the inside skin is not a big deal and you can then locate and drill a hole from the inside of the car. If you can get to Fleet, we should be able to sort it quite quickly :) Cheers - Simon
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Andrew, you can get knocking when the bolts through the Watts-link rose joints (or the olives themselves) wear. I had a car that had been built with standard bolts instead of shouldered ones, there was a mm or so movement on each olive, as teh threads on the bolts had collapsed. You could see the wheel move backwards and forwards when pushing it. It was noticeably noisy, but not a massive clonk. I've had big clonks before and always managed to find them - shame you are nowhere near Fleet! Cheers - Simon PS - I have a set of new rose-joint ends in the spares box, if you decide to change them.
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ISTR the U/J is from a Triumph Herald - loads on ebay, etc.
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I have an EU3 female-socket (the ECU-side) - new - if that is what you are after?
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Interesting - just tried R&R, he gets them from Quaife. However, he mentioned that when Quaife source them, they are all loose, wo they press the inner lining to crush it and take up the slack. I'm not sure how this works in practice, but will disassemble mine to see how it could. BTW - I found the following from MOCA2CV, explaining how to disassemble: http://www.myothercarsa2cv.co.uk/howto/glbearing.htm Thanks John! Cheers - Simon
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I have one of these with a worn/loose bearing: http://caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/90-90-thickbox.jpg The bearing is worn/loose, but I understand it is straightforward to replace. Has anyone done this and do you know where to get the part? Cheers - Simon
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Might just be me, but I've never had to balance slicks..
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Looking for either to see if it will fit my current TR6-based project.. Cheers - Simon
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If yours is a Caged unit, does it lean forward?
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If your cage is the older Arch-style one with the upright roll-over bar, then you will want one like Stuart's - presumably this one: http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/search.php?orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=59045S If you have the later Caged bar/cage, with the bolt holes through the diagonals, you want one like the picture, which is the one I have - this one, I think: http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=3075 HTH - Simon
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I have a used head restraint set, like the one shown, plus the 2 bolts for attachment to the bar.
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Pretty sure I have one of those, still in the bag! BM me to remind me and I will look tonight. Cheers - Simon
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How do you know it has ATF in there? I've seen posts about putting ATF with lower viscosity to help with cold running and maybe save a few pence on fuel costs - don't think it is recommended though, especially in a diff, which generally needs more shock resistance. There are normally addidtives in ATF, which probably wouldn't help a LSD. I'd change it to recommended fluids, probably with an intermediate mini-flush to clear it out... Where is the 'box weeping? Changing the speedo seal is easy - the prop seal, less so. I've seen oil additives that say they swell seals to stop leaks, but they certainly wouldn't be a good idea on a gearbox.
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It's also quite possible to take the standard lid off (with engine/box in place), using a 1/4"-drive ratchet and 10mm socket. You can see the level plug from the inside and can also suck out/fill the 'box this way :)
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Are you still lokoing for an SV '7' grille? I found one in the cupboard today..
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I think I still have the one you sent me - but it looks to be about half that height? Simon
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Hi - I have an alloy Rover low-profile sump (not CC). Where are you?
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If you haven't already sent it off, I have a standard K-series Prop from an S3 that had only done about 3k when everything came out for a bike conversion. Cheers - Simon
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Looking for a pair of these, plus linkages/manifold for a big-valve 1600 xflow. Possibly interested in a cam upgrade as well (not sure what is in there yet. Cheers - Simon
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Reg is H228-something - I haven't collected it yet. It's a '72 S4, which I think uses the later M-series chassis (but not confirmed yet). Wikipedia says 23 were made in total.. I expect I will be putting up more wanted ads soon, I think the xflow comes with a downdraught Weber, but it will have to have twin 40s (if they will fit), for the noise!
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Great stuff - talk soon!
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Anyone got one left over from a 6-speed upgrade? I've agreed to buy a TVR Vixen S4 'project' (1600 xflow) with 4-speed Cortina 'box and would prefer a 5-speed for everyday use. I see people have done them before, but not sure how straightforward it will be in real life.. TIA - Simon
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My MiL has asked about converting her garage door to electric - whereabouts are you, please? Cheers - Simon
