simonpa

Hi - kitcarbitz is a completely different company to kitcardirect. Kitcardirect do we-lay carbon (I think on top of fibreglass). Difficult curves are left carbonless - ie, rear wing edges - so f/g with a cosmetic carbon layer on top, then lacquer (as far as I can make out). Kitcarbitz just do the basics (wings/nose) in standard gelcoat fibreglass. I'm not associated with either, though will be ordering a set of plastics from kitcarbits next month, when they are back from their hols.

Looking for a pair of straight, cheap 700c wheels for my Son's Raleigh, please. His front is a The front has a skewer fiiting (if that matters) and I think the rear set is an 8-speed Shimano freewheel. Thanks!

I'll take these, if they are still available, please :) I can collect. Simon

Thanks Paul - reckon I will just stay with black!

Why do you suspect they are oval - loss of pressure/oil? If you are stripping the engine and the piston skirts aren't significantly marked, then it may be simpler/cheaper to replace the rings and/or liners?

I have had some results with rubbing compound from Halfords, followed by T-cut.

Wot Grant sez..

how much loss? what engine? Could be head gasket or water pump (both common on K-series and not always obvious. Any mayonnaise in the oil filler cap or on dipstick? Loss from the header tank should leave streaks on the tank. You could wrap some paper towel or toilet roll around it, to check - it will probably dry off, but will discolour, showing any leakage..

Will do - thanks!

I've seen a couple of all-ali Caterhams online - one with an ali nose here: http://www.mycaterham.com/mediac/400_0/media/DIR_149816/009.jpg http://www.mycaterham.com/mediac/400_0/media/DIR_18705/DIR_199516/004.jpg Didn't look as bling as the chrome Veyron, but would be quite a bit of work to keep shiny. If money was less of an object, I'd just put carbon nose/wings on it...

Hmm - sounds like wrapping may be a bit too difficult for me - might try the Pros. Dipping sounded a good option, but SCC don't do the hydro any more. He said he could probably get a good result in the chrome spray, but it's pretty expensive..

Hmm a couple of options there. Grafityp doesn't appear to a shiny ali-style vinyl, only brushed and the 5m minimum order makes it quite expensive just for the nose. However, the SCC hydro or spray coating looks doable - might even get wings done as well, if the prices are reasonable.. That may look a bit too bling though. Thanks for the tips!

My car has a polished ali body. I like the look of an ali nose, but they are a ridiculous price.. Can anyone recommend a colour/supplier of film/wrap that would be a reasonable match to polished bodywork?

Hi all, I'm refurbishing a y2000 S3. All the wings are damaged in some way that makes them not worth repainting. Additionally, the nosecone is painted in 2 different colours. I'm looking for a set of plastics in the same colour, if anyone has some? Preferably black - f/g or carbon considered. TIA - Simon.

I have 1 unused and 2 barely used ACB10s. Collection only - £20 for the unused and £10 each for the used ones, please. Cheers - Simon

Looks too cheap!

The O rings should be the same size as any Rover K injectors.

If you are using the car on the road and haven't tried a paddle kit before, you probably don't want to go that route! They can be very jerky - and harsh on the driveline.

To get the rear 15mm higher than the front: o you measure the front height from the floor to where the sideskin wraps under the chassis at the rear of the bottom wishbone o you measure the rear height from the floor to the chassis in front of the rear wheel, where the A-frame bolt goes through the chassis This should really all be done with a driver in the seat, or equivalent weight. Re: the spring fitting, the collar on the bottom which screws up/down should have an inner ring on it with an extended section to stop the spring moving sideways - you can see the sort of thing here: http://caterhamparts.co.uk/img/p/1822-1821-thickbox.jpg Maybe your units have the adjuster ring on upside down? Either way, they are not safe to fit in that configuration. Feel free to email pics of them and I can reply with examples of the fittings - I have a set of shocks on the garage shelf.. simonpa 'at' gmail.com

sounds like the first M3D ignition-only system. Will be easiest to contact Karl at Emerald for this.

You only check the oil with the engine running if you have an Apollo. Agree re: the Pela - used one for years - saves so much hassle.

It's not a VVC (cam cover is different). They used the gold MOTORSPORT insert on R500 and possibly SLR/VHPD. Rover throttle bodies were used on SLR (R500 used roller barrels). Sooo.. Could be pukka SLR or more likely to be a breathed on 1.8K If the chassis was bought as an engine-less kit, then probably not a 'standard' VHPD engine. However... There is a VERY good chance that the ECU would have been mapped by Emerald - in which case, they normally put a list of comments on the map to indicate the engine spec and output. It's not too difficult to look at the map on the Emerald. I (or many people runing and Emerald) could check it out for you. Cheers - Simon

That is even more of a result! You have 2 sets of Rover VHPD throttle bodies, plus an Emerald ECU, which makes it very likely that it is SLR spec. or similar. If you need help checking out the engine/'box or rest of the drivetrain, feel free to get in touch. Off-topic, if you decide to sell on one of the sets of bodies, I am looking for a set for my car...

That's potentially quite a result! Is there a number on the pedal box housing?

Hmm - what are you hoping to use it for? Does it have a registration number associated with it?