simonpa

Sounds like a backfire. Does it happen more when the engine is slowing down, after revving it?

Hi HeMan, I'm in Fleet and have a wind-back tool as well as a big socket.. My S3 is currently in bits, so I can show you what needs to be done. I also have a vice big enough to hold the hubs in place, to swap the discs over, if needed. I have just changed all the discs/pads on mine. Feel free to PM me to discuss/meet up. Cheers - Simon

As always, Jonathan is a great mine of information :)

It's unlikely that you will be able to identify anything about the diff by lifting the boot floor. I have seen a couple that have Quaife ATB stamped in the top of them - you should be able to make this out with a torch and mirror, from under the car. What did you want to know about the diff? It will be a 7" ford Sierra type diff. If you lift the back of the car up and leave it in gear, then turn a wheel, you should be able to tell if it has an LSD fitted - if the opposite wheel goes the other way, it is probably an open diff. If the opposite wheel goes the same way, or doesn't turn (without a lot of force), then it is probably fitted with an LSD. If it has an LSD, there is a 95% chance it will be standard Quaife ATB diff, as that was the standard Caterham offering back then.. Cheers - Simon

Looking for a K-series exhaust with the 4 separate primaries that join outside the body. with or without cat. W.H.Y? Cheers - Simon

Looking for a single Tillett, please. Doesn't have to be perfect, as long as it will clean up. I'm in Fleet and work near Reading, if there anyone local? Many thanks! Cheers - Simon

You only need to remove 1 driveshaft and look inside with a torch. It only takes a few minutes - certainly less than you've already spent discussing it :) ​undo 2 bolts on the caliper and tie it up to the spring - no need to detach hose or cable undo 2 rear bolts holding rear of ear to dedion tube undo 2 bolts/nuts holding front of ear to dedion pull out complete driveshaft/hub/disc assembly - carefullySimples! Another test you can do without dissembly is: sit rear of car on axle stands so wheels are off the ground handbrake off , gearbox in 1st, start the engine - the wheels will both turn forwards using a pair of thick gloves - try and prevent 1 wheel from turningIf there is an LSD, you shouldn't be able to stop the wheel manually. Simon

That's very pretty - and great value IMO!

Hmm - you are looking at some ooold stuff. However, a xflow on twin 40s does sound fantastic! I see the ebay car has completed - did you look at it? Again, it's pretty old and lower spec than your wants by a long way. I happen to be in the middle of a refurb of a Y2000 1.6 K-series, if you are interested? It's amazingly clean, especially the chassis and underside, which has been waxoyled since new. 68k miles, but with new shocks, bearings and brakes, it will ride/handle like new. Engine is very strong and has had 285H cams and verniers fitted by DVA - power is 150ish. Powerspeed 4:2:1 exhaust sounds great and would help release another 15-20 horses with throttle bodies. Emerald programmable ECU and modified EU3 loom means further upgrades would be straightforward. I'm just about to fit new plastics all round, but if you were interested in carbon or different interior/exterior specs, then this could be arranged. Current spec. would cost under £12k, but I need a week or so to finish up.. PM me if you wanted to chat. Cheers - Simon

I also had a call back from them today. They say they have plenty of 8" & 6" Anthracite wheels in stock. I was quoted £110 plus VAT for the 8" rears. I don't really need any, but could look into a bulk buy, if enough people are interested?

According to a recent FB thread, K&N have lots in stock. Not sure of colours, though.

Just bought a set of new plastics, but the old wings had no stone guards. Anyone got anything reasonable after upgrading to carbon? Cheers - Simon

How about this, Ian? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caterham-GRP-low-back-race-seat-Old-style-Suit-Caterham-other-kit-cars-/262295344886?hash=item3d120556f6:g:rc4AAOSwQYZWxLKw

I have one - a little overfuelling damage visible in the top, but works plenty good enough to get me through the MOT. Looking for £150 plus P&P, if needed. Alternatively, I am happy to loan, if you are nearby :) Cheers - Simon

I had an EU2 Elise with similar symptoms. I swapped the coil for a new one and normal service resumed. It's a very common failure. I'd try that first - it's much more likely to be a coil then the crank (flywheel) sensor.

Hi all, I bid on a pair of speakers on eBay and the seller is now saying he will not post them. Would anyone be able to pickup and post them to me, please? Cheers - Simon

Pretty sure I have an unused one, still in the bag... Where in Hants are you, Smithy?

Sounds like what I did with my early DVA back in 2000. I think then, I used 25mm spacers/backplate/50mm trumpets/PX600. Using an early 1.4K head, 740 cams and 42mm Jenveys, we managed 206bhp on a very road-friendly map :)

I don't think there is much difference between imp/metric, apart from a couple of bosses. If there is, Arch will mod anything for you :)

You could probably get a new chassis from Arch, for not much more than old/broken ones go for on eBay. The V5 probably triples the value, though.. What are you wanting it for? Cheers - Simon

What trumpets are you using? If more than 50mm, then a PX600 filter isn't ideal, as the trumpets are up against it.. I have an unused Pipercross 'dished' fibreglass backplate, that will allow longer trumpets. It's easier to cut than a flat ally plate, too. I also have a used, but OK PX600 filter to go with it. Finally, I have a Pipercross 600 airbox with remote filter, that would fit on the backplate. This is unused. Cheers - Simon

There is a whole set on ebay. However, the R300/400k are smaller than the R500k, I think. I have a SLR cat and that is loads smaller diameter pipework than the R500k

I'm pretty sure that even with the immobiliser disconnected, the fuel pump should initialise and the engine will run for a couple of seconds before the ECU tells the pump to stop. The easiest first steps would be to try another ECU and see if the pump starts. It would be a good idea to try replacing the fuel pump relay and fuse, just in case. You can also try connecting the pump to a new live feed to check it will operate. Next - check the ECU fuse(s) and finally, if smoke was seen and not from the ECU or relay, but from somewhere general, you may need to unwrap some of the loom to see if any wires have melted together. Cheers - Simon

EU2 or EU3? An Emerald ECU is plug compatible with EU2. It's an easy conversion for EU3; Emerald can supply a new plug, connectors and wiring diagram with pinouts. It's also very easy to program and there are maps online (or from Emerald) for most K-seires configurations.

Is you car EU2 or EU3? Unless they have been unlocked (very unlikely), all the Rover K-series ECUs are matched with a dedicated immobiliser and it's matching plipper. Buying a Rover ECU on eBay without matching immobiliser and plipper will just be a waste of money. If you have a local Caterham (or Rover 200/400) owner with an EU2 engine, you can try swapping in their ECU and immobiliser and see if it works. It should start and run (even if a bit rough. Alternatively, thee may be a local with an Emerald ECU that you could try? I have a matched SLR ECU/immobiliser/plippers that I could send to you to try - I'm not 100% sure it would work, as I bought it from another 7er on here, but haven't tested it... Cheers - Simon