simonpa

Were are you, Morten? Happy to look over your rear end (ooerr) if you are nearish, or a local member will probably offer too :) It's not always obvious if a dedion has been changed, but it's pretty normally obvious if it is failing. I've also a spare/good dedion if you get stuck... Cheers - Simon

Upper for comfort, lower for handling. I've had several Watts-link'ed cars and they were always setup in the lower position. The Watts-link is for improved handling, so it is senseless to put it in the upper position - I think it will probably upset the geometry if anything, due to the way it works. If you want best comfort - let me know - I'll buy you a pair of brand new radius arms and swap them for your Watts-link kit :)

Upper for comfort, lower for handling. I've had several Watts-link'ed cars and they were always setup in the lower position. The Watts-link is for improved handling, so it is senseless to put it in the upper position - I think it will probably upset the geometry if anything, due to the way it works. If you want best comfort - let me know - I'll buy you a pair of brand new radius arms and swap them for your Watts-link kit :)

Silicon spray is your friend - no need to warm them up - they just push over the shoulder :)

New ones come with the bushes in. They are pretty thin, but can be changed. I have a full set of bushes for the rear end - message/mail me if you are interested! Cheers - Simon

I've a couple of tower bits. Send me your email and I can send pics of what I have.. Cheers - Simon

Thanks - I'll have a look at a couple and see if they are big enough! Cheers - Simon

Hi all, our eldest (22) returns from exercise next month and has asked me to find him a car for him in the meantime. His requirements are: reliable big enough to have the dog (Husky) in the back not too thirsty £2k-ish, but I may add a bit for a nice car.His initial thoughts were A4 or 3-series estate, but after speaking to him again, an Octavia estate or even a later Golf or Leon may have a big enough boot. Petrol preferred, particularly a smaller turbo'd unit, but may consider a diesel. Cheers - Simon

I've got one of the large knurled caps, plus some of the conning tower innards (central tubes, including the strainer. I've also a new 'blue plate' for the underside. Cheers - Simon

Updated to add a Canon EF-M adapter, so you can use your existing Canon dSLR EOS EF and EF-S lenses with this.

Updated to show original kit now remaining, with reduced price!

I've only used this twice since buying it 20 months ago (and the first time was just testing), so it's made it onto the current de-clutter list. As such, it's as new and comes boxed. It really is fantastically sharp and bright but I tend to use my 24-105L when I don't need a long lens. £195 plus P&P I'm in Fleet and work near Reading if you'd like to try before you buy :) Cheers - Simon

Bought this last year and used it less than 6 times as I really can't get on with not having a viewfinder. I only bought it as SWMBO complains when I lug the SLR kit out for trips! So I'm saving up for an X100 for when she really won't let me take the 5D2! The EOS-M is effectively a 650D without a mirror and takes great pics. This is the full kit, as new and comprises: EOS-M body in black o 18-55 zoom with IS (Image Stabilisation) Speedlite 90 EX flash (tiny, but works sooo much better than built-in flashes) charger & Canon battery spare 2000Mah battery (third-party, but lasts longer than the original) original box with manual, etc. I also have a genuine Canon EF-M convertor, so you can use your dSLT EF and EF-S lenses - I'll throw this in for an extra £25 - it's as-new. I'd like £195 plus P&P I'm in Fleet and work near Reading if you'd like to try before you buy :) Cheers - Simon

ooh - just googled 'anodising removal) and the stuff in here looks worth a try: http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/articles/polishing/ I haven't tried caustic soda (oven cleaner/drain unblocker), may try that on mine.

If it is the standard ali knob, shaped like a hot air balloon, then it is anodised and won't polish off. You would probably need to blast or sand/emery paper it off. I tried paint remover on an old one I have and it didn't touch it.

Think Automotive used to be cheaper than most for genuine Stack senders.

Lol - you just use grease to stick them to your finger/thumb tips and then the the valve stem - just place finger/thumb together on the stem below where the grooves are and sweep up/together into place - takes seconds...

The price does look 'optimistic' - probably just seeing if they get lucky. The description appears deliberately vague, especially wrt the chassis, particularly when the company blurb in the ad says they want anything Lotus, including 'basket cases'. Make me think there is much more to do than is economical.

I gave my last spare away, but all the MB's I have seen have been painted steel, not plastic.

Doh - blimmin' kids!

This is normally either: o the plastic drive in the gearbox tail - a doddle to replace with the box out o the little 'spike' on the angle drive - again a doddle to check/replace with the box out o the cable - easy to see if this works - use a drill to clamp on and turn the inner and see if the gauge works - make sure the inner cable is pushed in, so it engages with the speedometer BM me direct if you need any clarification.

Are you definitely after a R500 cat? I haven't heard of a 1.6k with full-size R500 headers fitted. I have one of the R500 cat sections, but it is emtpy (cat collapsed/removed). If you need it to look like there is a cat present, this might do you - looks just like this: R500 cat pipe. Alternately, you could get a cat fitted into it. Alternatively, if you have the smalled SLR/VHPD headers, I have a useable VHPD cat, like this one: SLR/VHPD cat. Cheers - Simon

They look more than fine - I can't see any wear through the anodising to the metal below. When they wear they normally: o wear away the anodised colouring over a wide area o leave a noticeable 'lip' between where the tooth is rounded and where the belt doesn't touch the tooth (as the wheel is slightly wider than the belt).

You can take teh top/front of the cambelt cover off by undoing 4 or 5 x 8mm bolts (not the 10mm one lower down - the cover has a slot at that point and can be pulled off). rounding of the camwheel teeth is pretty obvius, but if not, then post a decently-lit pic up for BC comment!