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As well as normal rivnuts, I've just ordered some rubber ones to see how well these work. Will let you know how I get on once I get a weekend free!

Too early for Brands (I looked hoping to see it too!).

My first track day was the club Brands Hatch GP a few years ago. I spent the first few sessions spending more time looking in my mirrors and using the indicator than looking forward and changing gear! However, once my confidence grew I started to match the pace of some of the cars so could concentrate on the driving and it was brilliant. The Indy circuit is short meaning it gives you lots of laps to gain your confidence and as it's all 7's (hopefully), everyone is very courteous and patient. I would not bother with tuition on your first TD - there's enough to be thinking about anyway. Just turn up, get on track, build up speed slowly and enjoy yourself. We were all TD novices once.

Yes please!!! Booked.

Brands Hatch GP in July.... Fantastic. Will be fun trying to keep up with Peter and his new beast (more likely trying to keep out of his way!). Andy, are you looking at Brands Indy at all? For the last few years, there's been an Indy evening session.

John How did you get on in the end doing this? I picked up some Millwood ones yesterday to go over my bare carbon wings and would rather not do any drilling if at all possible.

Hi all I'm after a carbon aeroscreen to fit a CSR / SV, preferably with mirrors (also carbon). If anyone has anything suitable, please let me know. Thanks. Simon

Toyo T1R's come in 14's but not sure if 195 is the correct width. Great tyres though, quite a lot of the 15 inch wheel Caterhams have these now. I had them on my Roadsport and really liked them.

Hi Hanns Per Thanks for the reply. If you could send some pictures that would be great. Simon

Following on from my previous thread about my gauges acting strangely by constantly fluctuating, I've come to the conclusion that it may be simpler to remove the scuttle to gain access. I'm also intending on fitting an aero this summer so I can modify the heated screen wires and fit the captive nut brackets at the same time. A couple of questions. 1. The CSR scuttle looks to be exactly the same as the SV scuttle and, therefore, I assume is removed in the same way (I will be drilling the rivets as there is tons of stuff mounted on the bulkhead). I have the modular dash if that makes any difference. 2. I intend to use rivnuts rather than rivets when replacing the scuttle and notice that there are many types. I believe that I need aluminium M4 countersunk - is this correct? I've also seen rubber rivnuts, has anyone used these before? Cheers Simon

Bit of an update. Had planned to do a test using the potentiometer on Saturday but, as the weather was so good, decided to have a run out instead! Temperature gauge starter off quite erratic then settled down a bit although the needle would fluctuate with revs (more revs = higher temperature shown). What then happened was very odd. The oil pressure gauge needle moved to the far right and stayed there. The oli temperature was normal, then engine felt and sounded fine and even after stopping and restarting, the needle would just move to the far right and stay there. I'm assuming here that there isn't an oil pressure problem. This has got to be earth related so I'm going to look to replace the main earth cables and take it from there.

Nigel, I thought of the test you suggest but want to be able to try the gauge at different settings for long periods of time, hence the potentiometer. If the gauge turns out to be fine then it must be electrical and my suspicion would be the earth as my speedo used to do the same thing prior to a well documented mod.

Hi Bob, I'm near Tunbridge Wells so not too far away but not that close. Thanks for the offer. I'll try the potentiometer route first as I think this could be quite a cheap and quick test but may take you up on the offer if it proves inconclusive. BTW, my last 7 was a 99 vintage 1.8k - it was a great car!

The sender I have is a VDO 323-095 which has a range of 10 - 180 ohm's and upto 120c. Not sure about the gauge's range though...

Hi Jonathan, thanks for the reply. I'll need to check on both (and nowhere near the car at present) but the sender is one from an aviation company that Aeroscreens posted on the old forum (I'll do a search in a bit) which goes to 120c (the Caterham one goes to 150c). The gauge is the standard Caterham one (so I assume it's the same as all the others). Is there some kind of formula I can use?

The water temperature gauge on my CSR is inaccurate at best and tends to spend most of it's time bouncing from zero to over 100 before eventually stopping at zero. I've replaced the temperature sender (twice), had the earth connector replaced (the one to the water rail) and so my attentions have now turned to the gauge itself. Not wanting to spend the £80 for a new one without being sure what the problem is, I got to thinking whether it would be possible to wire the gauge to the battery via a potentiometer so that I could test the gauge through a range of voltages and see if it behaves as expected (i.e. steady) or whether I get the behaviour I'm seeing when it's in the car. Is this a silly idea? If not, what sort of potentiometer should I be looking for? Is there another, easier way of testing the gauge?

:-(

I will take the aero if Garth doesn't.

Hi Jonathan Can I add one more tube to my order (bringing it up to 3) and 2 black and 2 red bags please. Thanks, Simon

Ok, here's a pic of my 7 in the Airchamber. It's a tight squeeze!

Well it's up, in the garage (sorry Ian...) and the car is in. It was a bit of a fiddle but not too bad - I will post pics. However, it's a tight squeeze... According to their website, the 'Sportscar' size is suitable for an SV. I'm not sure it's suitable for a CSR though as its a very tight fit! On reflection, I should have gone for the next size up. When I rolled the car out this morning, the brake disks were sticking and the steering wheel had signs of mould so clearly it would have been much worse had I left it as was. I'll check in a few weeks and see whether things are any worse. Finally, it states in the manual that hot exhausts will damage the plastic so I will follow Ian's suggestion to include some protection down the side as you do need to drive the car in (pulling it in leaves you trapped - don't ask how I found out...). Pleased so far though.

Elie, damp is an understatement. I have puddles in the garage for most of the winter as rain comes in through the roof and walls! It was badly built 30 years ago and there's no point in repairing it hence the new garage. The Airchamber provides a dust and damp free environment and will probably cost less than the remedial work I would need to do to the car after the winter if not used. I'm also planning on selling it after I've used it so should recoup most of the costs. However... Lesson learned. Don't get it delivered to work. It's much bigger and heavier than it looked and now I've got to get home on the train!

Good plan Ian, I will do that as well. £50...

Cool, thanks. Ordered one from the company website which also agrees that Sports Car size fits a Caterham SV. My only concern was a hot exhaust being that close to the walls. Pretty sure the garage is big enough - will find out soon! Check out the For Sale section if it isn't...

I have a owners manual from around that era. It's a bit dog eared but happy to send to someone for a small donation to NTL if anyone is interested.