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micksmetafors

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Everything posted by micksmetafors

  1. micksmetafors
    Bazza, Are you up and running now? Steve
  2. micksmetafors
    Friend who wants to fit some of these to his MGA. Anybody got some they want to dispose of? Pair complete preferred. Steve
  3. micksmetafors
    If not try Millwoods for the bonding stuff they use. Ask for John or Bob. i've used it on my c/w's for track days and noproblem at all.
  4. micksmetafors
    Try jump starting it from a good battery or other car. Mine turned out to be a duff battery when similar symptoms presented themselves. if it idles straight away then it's almost certainly the battery.
  5. micksmetafors
    CC advised to use PTFE tape on the threads of my Apollo. Never had any leakage problems and it seals even if both plug and tank are wet. You only drain the Apollo tank to re seal it. Best of luck
  6. micksmetafors
    My VVC had exactly this problem. Needed throttle to run after initial firing. I was told by CC that the ECU doesn't see enough volts from the battery and shuts itself down. A new battery was the only solution. If you jump start it it will run normally with the old battery even after disconnecting the jump leads. Sadly looks like you'll need to spend £50.
  7. micksmetafors
    Surely it should be 56tyres
  8. micksmetafors
    Nifty, It's yours, if you email me @ sandc.millard@tesco.net we can arrange delivery etc. Steve
  9. micksmetafors
    Arrived too late to stop me dry sumping. £130 delivered. Saving of £53.
  10. micksmetafors
    To check if the plastic drive gear is OK put the quill pin (square section formed from wire into the sqaure socket in the end of the plastic gear.If it turns in it then you'll need the gear changing. if not, it's probabaly the angle drive that needs attention. They're not the greatest strength item but at least it's not too tricky to change over.
  11. micksmetafors
    Just had to change my angle drive unit. There wasn't enough metal left in it to engage the squared off quill pin. Good luck
  12. micksmetafors
    Paul, You've probably got need of offset dowels or vernier pullies to get the cam timing accurate. When I did my DVA conversion on the VVC engine the engine wouldalmost die at idle but adjusting the cams to what Oily hands said sorted the problem instantly. Not sure what the cam timing is at TDC for these but I'm sure Dave Andrews can let you know and sell you the bits. Good luck, Steve
  13. micksmetafors
    Seconded VVC is flexible and not very thirsty. I put DVA's K06a kit on with offset dowels and it goes very well. Be interesting to see how it compares with other engine tyoes and tunes on the tracks. On the road it'svery good.
  14. micksmetafors
    I heard that CC now only use the standard pump with no mods forthe R500 now. can't remember whoat CC told me when I was enquiring about a 240 bhpVX conversion. They said the std.pump was good for that flow/bhp rating. Conversion do-able for about £250/300 + vat I think.
  15. micksmetafors
    Cheesmans in Woking make them for CC but they won't sell direct. Try Powerspeed for a 4-2-1. i bought a complete sysytem for less than the CC set up and it certainly improves things. Tel 01233 662225
  16. micksmetafors
    Davesport, Sorry fraid not but it's a doddle to fit. Simply divide the top hose and shorten by about 40mm. Rejoin and refill, it seems to bleed easier than with the block mounted stat that Rover provide. The dillting can either be in the outer part of the stat (not the housing) or the valve part which opens. A 1/16" hole is plenty big enough to get the flow going.
  17. micksmetafors
    Just fitted one from Elise Parts and put it in the top hose. (about £60incl VAT)Removed standard stat and drilled 1/16" hole in new stat to ensure flow thru to make the stat work. Blanked off the heater take off in the new stat housing with a nylon plug and it seems to work a treat. Warms to 80deg in 3 miles and stays at stat temp at about 100mph (88deg). Be interesting to see how it performs on track but the 100mph test for 5 minutes is usually pretty thorough.
  18. micksmetafors
    Yes but go to a proper tyre shop. They can repair it to British standard and it must be removed from the rim to check for any internalor runfalt damage
  19. micksmetafors
    I need one 6x13 Minator for a spare but would buy 2 if necessary. If you're interested let me know
  20. micksmetafors
    If one half of the engine is hot and the other coldthere is probably an air lock. Add water mix via the heater hoses until the water flows out of the top rad plug hole then there is hardly any air to bleed out. Normally the fan switch works much more efficiently after bleeding and the heater is more efficient
  21. micksmetafors
    They are male type torx bolts. Halfords do a set of the sockets, bit awkward to get ontowith the Valeo clutch cover. other makes might be easier. Hope it helps you
  22. micksmetafors
    Wanted, One Caterham 6 x 13 Minator for De Dion - Silver preferred. Condition not too important - for spare winter wheelset. Possible to collect
  23. micksmetafors
    Luke, could well be. I've got a person on first refusal for the 6 speeder. How much would you want for the 5 speed and what are the ratios.
  24. micksmetafors
    I'm planning to change from 6 speed to 5 S/c/c/r. Any suggestions as to value of 6 speeder. It's done 15k and works well but I have a torquey VVC engine and don't need the closeness. Timing to change is Autumn this year.
  25. micksmetafors
    I have similar situation on a 6 speeder which had a new drive ratio put in. Apparently the genuine Ford oil seal for the speedo drive isn't available and the substitute isn't as effective. Seems like permanent dribbling might be the situation.
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