skeetsy
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Everything posted by skeetsy
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These chaps might be useful if nobody has a spare matrix kicking about. I think the heater you are after is from an original series 2 landrover. All the best Richard
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Hi, Can I put a dibs on the primaries and collector (items 13 & 14 from your list) for Daz00004 please? He's been looking for a while so I'll contact him and get him to drop you a blatmail. All the best Richard
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Hi, If Finmac doesn't want the Momo then I'll take it please Can you let me know what the postage would be? All the best Richard
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Hi Mark, YHM All the best Richard
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Hi Richard , Many thanks for the exhaust I couldn't resist offering it up to my long branch manifold and having a listen to it before I cut it up 😬 and oh my word! when you fit a 4" crossflow silencer to a 1.8K Series noisy doesn't even begin to cover it I'll have to take it for a quick spin when it stops raining just to get the full effect All the best Richard
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SBFS boot cover (low), 6x13s, rear wings, hood, heat shield etc
skeetsy replied to Superwhite R283's topic in For Sale
Hi Andy, I can act as courier if you like All the best Richard -
I've just repaired a leaking heater matrix in my 2006 K series Roadsport, it's not difficult to do. I bought a new one of these As the old plastic one had deformed with the heat and the actual matrix was fine. there are a pair of O Ring seals behind the take off plate. I hope this is helpful. All the best Richard
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O/T electric window regulator cables and nipples
skeetsy replied to Paul Deslandes's topic in TechTalk
From my apprentice days (a long time ago now) I was told that if you wanted to solder steel to steel (or indeed to anything) then you needed to use an appropriate flux, a hard solder (commonly known as silver solder) and a flame. the reason being that you cannot get the steel hot enough with an iron for the chemical reaction to take place between the solder and the metal (it's this that forms the bond) and if you tried to use a soft solder (like standard multi core electrical solder) then if the steel was hot enough the solder would boil away, or if the solder was the right temperature it wouldn't stick to the steel because the steel was too cold. All the best Richard Edited by - skeetsy on 16 Aug 2013 23:55:08 -
Nothing to do with me but this may suit someone in the club All the best Richard
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Hi Steve, I'm no expert but 195g is a lot of weight to add to a wheel. Generally the accepted normal practice seems to be to stop and rotate the tyre through 180° if you get such a significant out of balance. This thread reads a lot like your earlier post so maybe it's a Toyota thing.... I've never seen weights distributed like the ones in your photos. All the best Richard
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The nose is still available! All the best Richard
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Hi Simon, YHM re the nose. All the best Richard
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Nothing to do with me, but since it won't fit my car I thought I'd share it with the community here All the best Richard
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Quoting simonpa: Apparently available in Ireland as well http://cars.donedeal.co.uk/vintagecars-for-sale/caterham-superlite-r/5249687 That is very suspicious! And it's quite a bit more expensive in Ireland too.... All the best Richard
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Hi all, Nothing to do with me but I saw this and thought it was pretty cheap..... I wonder why? Assuming it's all in order then I guess it would be a bit of a bargain for someone All the best Richard
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And as it happens a set has just turned up on Ebay! Are these the same as the ones you have for sale? All the best Richard
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Quoting andygoodliffe: as a single throttle is well over a hundred That rather depends on where you buy one. I just purchased a 52mm throttle body from the local scrappy for a friend and I paid £19.70p for it (granted I had to take it off the car myself) but a bit of a bargain I suppose In terms of your throttle bodies I assume they are the original VHPD throttle bodies and the last set I was watching on Ebay went for around £250 as I recall. All the best Richard
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Superlite Wheels have pretty much wound up their business. I tried (without success) to get a set of centre caps from them 2 years ago.... All the best Richard
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Excellent! Many thanks Richard, I'll take it please. I'l be up to Ipswich in the next few weeks so will make arrangements to pick it then. All the best Richard
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YHM All the best Richard
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I'll have this please I'll send you a blatmail later on. All the best Richard
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Updated to add if anyone has an old silencer with the side exit tail pipe lying around that isn't damaged and they want rid, then I would be interested for the right price.... All the best Richard
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That's my back-up option, but if possible I'd like to use a standard tail pipe as it will just look "right" if you know what I mean.... Incidentally my car is a K Series so any passenger side exhaust will do All the best Richard
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Ok so this is a bit of a long shot, but I'm after the exit pipe from a standard exhaust silencer, so if anyone has an exhaust that has been damaged (with the exit pipe still serviceable) then I'd be very grateful for it. My plan is to modify an R1 carbon wrapped can to suit my 7, but the first thing I need is an appropriate exit pipe and hanger bracket, hence this post Edited to add, it's the side exit exhaust that I'm after. All the best Richard Edited by - skeetsy on 21 Jul 2013 23:32:10
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Hi folks, Nothing to do with me but there is the above currently available on E-bay here Looks like it could be a good buy for anyone wanting to dip their toe into the world of aero blatting All the best Richard
