skeetsy

Blimey, that's a good spec and being an SV I'd have thought it would fetch considerably more than £17K..... Someone's going to get a good car by the sound of it All the best Richard

Many thanks Jon, BM sent.... All the best Richard

Hi A bit of a long shot, but I'm after a trackday tyre rack like this: http://www.margel.net/trackrack/Main_image.jpg but to suit a Caged trackday roll bar with the double diagonal, the ones for the old style single diagonal FIA bar do not fit 😔 Does anyone have one they no longer want? All the best Richard

Quoting Glasgow: Quoting Capt Sensible: Plenty of people have had problems with a Radtec and suggest you do a search before deciding what radiator to fit had a quick look at the archive, can't find a post about problems with radtec... Any link please? Thanks A Intrigued by the statements I did a quick check in the archives and found this old thread Quoting Shaun E: Most of the class 5 sprinters (200bhp+ engines) use the standard Caterham radator. Get the Ford one with ali tanks rather than plastic. You might need a blanking plug as it has an extra connection on it. I swapped to that when my Radtec started leaking and it works fine even after 3 back to back sessions at Castle Combe on a hot day! I have the same radiator as your failed item Ahmed, mine is currently ok (touching lots of wood etc!) All the best Richard

Quoting prangerman: How did you isolate the problem and identify the wiring as the issue? Peter (automotive electrical numpty ) Edited by - prangerman on 19 Jun 2013 15:30:26 I had the issue of a broken wire at the plug which connects to the TPS and the problems I had were hunting revs at idle and a general tendency to stall when coming off the throttle (i.e. when approaching a junction) I have a copy of the build manual so I just used a multimeter to check the continuity between the corresponding connectors on the big plug which attaches onto the ecu and the various small plugs which attach to the various sensors. All the best Richard

Another option is to stick the new tyres on the front and hoon the life out of the old CR500's on the rear, then get a new pair of TOYO's for the rear to match the front set 😬 All the best Richard

Hi, This is nothing to do with me but someone on here may be interested £80 for an Aeroscreen with mirrors bargain? All the best Richard

Quoting Grubbster: I clean everything with IPA first. What a waste of good beer All the best Richard

It's better than the VW based one in this thread! 😬 All the best Richard

Hi Saw you in Wimborne at about 3:30pm as we were strolling around the folk festival All the best Richard

Hi I waved at you from the dark blue Audi A3 as you were heading towards Haywards Heath in the sun You were 2 up. All the best Richard

Hi, I don't know if the set up on a 21 is the same as on my 7, but there is only one small pipe from the head to the header tank and one large pipe from the bottom of the header tank linked to the lower radiator connection via a tee. I don't get any flow through the header tank either and as far as I know I don't have any air locks. did you have flow before the drain and re-fill? All the best Richard

Possibly, You can by them brand new from Ebay for that here I believe that's Oxted's Ebay shop. All the best Richard

Or you could give Carl at Seven Speed a call Side Stripes for under £40.00 All the best Richard

That was me and my daughter I just saw you in the tin top as we were going past and did lift my hand, but perhaps a little late for you to see. We were on our way back from a lovely day at Beaulieu All the best Richard

Well I'm very happy to confirm that she's running fine. A great day out All the best Richard

For the last year or so my 1.8 K Series EU3 has been running like a female dog. It was alright when it was cold, but once it was up to temperature the revs would hunt up and down and if you didn't have your foot on the accelerator when pulling up to a junction then 95% of the time it would stall. Having researched various threads on BC I had tried various things, like swapping out the water temperature sensor, disconnecting the lambda sensor and tried the ECU reset numerous times, but nothing seemed to make much difference. So last weekend I decided to bite the bullet and start trying to trace the loom through to make sure I had continuity everywhere, one thread suggested that the standard loom is not all that great... And bingo, I found that there was no connectivity between the ECU and the throttle pot on the live supply (so all my resets would have done bugger all!) and a bit more investigation found that the wire had snapped right at the point it disappeared into the plug 😔 £1.20 at the local scrappy and a few minutes with the soldering iron and she seems to be cured, but I'll find out for sure on the drive to Beaulieu tomorrow All the best Richard

Quoting robmar: but hey if if you fancy a bit of a project.... That is insane! I can't believe anyone would even consider selling it, let alone buying it 😳 All the best Richard

Hi Gary, What type of manifold are you selling? daz00004 may be interested..... All the best Richard

How about this? All the best Richard

Hi Charlie, If the expansion into the header occurs when the engine is cold then I would agree that HGF is a likely cause... ☹️ Personally I wouldn't think that a previous airlock in the system would cause the issue in itself.... All the best Richard

Quoting charlie_pank: What is pushing the coolant into the expansion tank? It has to be a gas somewhere in the system that was compressed until the cap was loosened (as liquid is not compressable). Could be air, could be exhaust gas... C TBH I think if you get any engine with regular water based coolant up to temperature and then remove the cap from the header tank the coolant will expand to fill the header, and possibly overflow. Remember the system is under pressure, and whilst water is incompressible it will increase it's volume as the temperature increases, but this doesn't happen because of the pressurisation. When the pressure is released the fluid will expand and it's temperature will also increase. If the system is very hot then there is the possibility of the coolant flashing off to steam when the pressure is released. All the best Richard

Hi, If Cliff wants these then I may be able to collect on my way back from Ipswich sometime during the week of the 10th of June. All the best Richard

Hi Paul, I have a 2006 1.8K series with the heater removed at the moment due to a similar leak from the heater (mine is also in the flimsy plastic case with the 7 embossed on the front. If it's failed in the same way as mine then you will find that the plastic outlet pipe connector onto the header of the matrix has warped with the heat and has allowed coolant past the o ring seals (mine only leaked when the engine was up to temperature) I bought a replacement outlet pipe connector from Mini spares here although they appear to be outt of stock at present. I've got a short piece of pipe connecting the two pipes on the heater control valve at the moment and everything is fine so you could wait until they have new stock in. To get the heater apart you only really need to undo the hoses and then deal with the pop rivets and it all lifts out, leaving the fan deck still in the car. I hope this helps. All the best. Richard

I do believe John Alston has eloquently identified a solution to your problem. if you take the heater assembly apart (as I have done just recently due to a heater matrix leak) you will find a couple of drain holes at the base of the heater - one on each side of the tunnel conveniently located to drip on either the driver's left leg or the passenger's right leg. If you're wearing white socks they turn pink when you have a coolant leak from the matrix.... All the best Richard