pandjack

Somewhat inundated with PM's since my last post so please forgive me if I haven't responded to all, but now sold & thanks for your interest.

Plenty of interest in the wheels & freebies only (+ a couple of time wasters professing to be interested in the lot) - but, seriously - 300 quid? - still up for grabs

Lots of PM takers on these guys so in true L7O spirit will be taking dibsville in order - so please bear with me!

Gregs79 I've sent you a couple of PM's but they keep getting bounced back for some reason You were first to reply with interest so therefore have first dibs - give me a call at work. Regards Paul

YHM

YHM/pics

Compomotive CXR-2 wheels (6"x13" front/8"x13" rear) - £200 the set. Avon ZZR tyres (185/55 ZR13 front, 215/55 ZR13 rear). Hill-climbed a dozen or so times but still plenty of life left in them - £200 the set. Wheels & tyres together £300. Avon CR500 tyres (175/55 R13 front, 205/55 R13 rear). Fronts have 5mm-ish tread, rears 4mm-ish tread but have hardened somewhat so probably only really good for 'non-spirited' road use (or alternatively non-competitive 'highly spirited' track use!!) - free to collect.

Anyone looking to offload a pair (or even a nearside only if a good match)?

SORTED - AT LAST!!!! Tom was on the right track as it was indeed a lack of excitation current path. Still not sure why , but rather than stripping back the loom into which the thin brown/yellow cable from the alternator (now known to be the exciter cable) disappears, I've wired a separate excitation circuit from this terminal via a warning lamp to a new live feed. With the ignition switched on the lamp lights as the circuit's completed then goes out when the engine is fired up as the alternator kicks in (ie the system most 'ordinary' road cars work on). I now have a steady 14.4/14.5v battery charge & no more mis-fires

Tim : Thanks - I'll work my way through these checks. Paul : Factory fitted isolator from new but will check connections; 2 wires to alternator - thick one from starter solenoid already checked/OK, & thin one disappears off into engine loom - no terminals without connections. The thing is, I haven't made any changes & the car was previously running perfectly. The only thing you've now got me thinking about is I removed the isolator key a couple of times recently when parked (for security) which I'd never done previously - I wonder....?? Tom : Thanks -will check this also.

Thanks for the quick reply Tim - I concur, the only things left are cables & connections but I've checked/cleaned all the obvious ones when replacing the alternator. I've not checked resistances etc yet & although I have a multimeter I'm not electro-savvy so therefore haven't got a clue what the numbers should be anyway....??

Apologies for duplication, but, whilst the below is the latest update in my previous thread (R400 K series misfire), I've narrowed it down somewhat : New alternator fitted & the battery indicator on the Stack is showing 12.5v with the engine idling on a re-charged battery (not the usual 14-14.5v), this then gradually drops over a 20-30 min blat to 11.9v, &....return of misfire on sudden throttle inputs. Thinking the previously spikey alternator outputs have fried the battery I then invest in a brand new battery & the same thing happens - after a 20-30 min blat the voltage drops off & the misfire returns!!! I've checked the integrity of the thick cable from alternator to starter solenoid & all OK, also fitted an extra earth cable from the battery negative to the chassis & still no improvement. Scraped through Harewood at the weekend (actually managed a PB!!) by charging/swapping batteries between runs but I really need to get to the bottom of what's stopping the alternator from charging the battery at the normal 14-14.5v. Any further pointers (or recommendations of a good auto-electrician in the York area in lieu of my numpty understanding of the black art!!) would be VERY much appreciated........

New alternator fitted & the battery indicator on the Stack is showing 12.5v with the engine idling on a re-charged battery (not the usual 14-14.5v), this then gradually drops over a 20-30 min blat to 11.9v, &....return of misfire on sudden throttle inputs. Thinking the previously spikey alternator outputs have fried the battery I then invest in a brand new battery & the same thing happens - after a 20-30 min blat the voltage drops off & the misfire returns!!! I've checked the integrity of the thick cable from alternator to starter solenoid & all OK, also fitted an extra earth cable from the battery negative to the chassis & still no improvement. Scraped through Harewood at the weekend (actually managed a PB!!) by charging/swapping batteries between runs but I really need to get to the bottom of what's stopping the alternator from charging the battery at the normal 14-14.5v. Any further pointers (or recommendations of a good auto-electrician in the York area in lieu of my numpty understanding of the black art!!) would be VERY much appreciated........

I've worked my way through all of the above to no avail. Latest observations during yet another 'diagnostics blat' however (with performance varying from normal R400 woo-hooooo!! under all conditions, to absolute dog on sudden throttle inputs) were : wildly fluctuating battery voltage on the Stack (13.0 - 17.1v from cold, eventually dropping to 11.2v & 'low batt' warning after 20 miles or so), fluctuating indicator beeper tone when stationary at junctions etc, corresponding change in idle speed & 'unusual' idle sound (not rough or mis-firing - just 'different' from normal). I'm now thinking - alternator goosed & this actually makes a lot of sense as it was badly contaminated with oil/cleaned with copius amounts of electrical contact cleaner after the initial oil leak! Could this be the answer to my prayers......??.

Not sure how to measure the fuel pressure but when spinning the engine over with the fuel line removed from the end of the fuel rail the flow is good & consistent. I also dismantled/cleaned the fuel pressure regulator as part of the original investigations (prior to everything being sorted & re-mapped) & all seemed OK as far as I could see - I've covered 2-300 miles since then with no issues.