6speedmanual

Hi Brake Squealers United My brakes squeal too but usually only as per described by Dave J. I suggest keeping Coppaslip and similar copper greases AWAY from your brakes!!! This may seem contentious after all the above and Coppaslip CAN help reduce squeal and has been used since time immemorial But: It attracts muck and grit and holds it in the caliper increasing wear and seizure of pads on caliper sliders. The grease bases are often of unspecified type, and may attack the caliper rubber dust seals. Low melt point of grease means it may run to where it shouldn't be. It dries out leaving gungey residue of copper. It looks vile I suggest using CERATEC Made by Mintex exactly for the job for which people use Coppaslip but without the disadvantages... Available for about £3 a tube from motor factors. :-) 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Rob I was refering to bulk oil temps. What I meant by "how are you measuring temp" was what type of sensor/gauge are you using? (rather than where you are measuring it) This is quite important because, for example, the little 2" diameter dashboard guages are notoriously inaccurate. (not necessarily inconsistent with themselves, but two gauges may give significantly different readings) For engineering analysis to make decisions about the oil cooler set-up, something accurate and consistent like a thermocouple and electronic meter should be used. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi Bazaroo Yuk! If really not sucking air at No.2, may be some problem with valve stuck open or closed. Or something else (worse) stopping the mechanical pumping of air through the cylinder. What is history of the problem? When did it last run ok and what has happened since? Compression test good place to start. Should all be reasonably equal. (Absolute reading depends on some variables). Post a set of compressions and discuss again. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Rob, How are you measuring oil temp? 120oC seems out of kilter with the other posts' experiences. Before spending £s and adding Kgs, have you really got a problem? Also, consider that fully synth oil should be OK even higher than 120oC so long as no other engine running probs and coolant temp is stable. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

I'd stick to a 74oC. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Questmead here Alan Brown and his team can sort out brake friction for just about anything. They will most probably know what pad to supply for your caliper, especially if you can give them the product code, but if not and you send a tracing of the backplate, they will match it. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi Nifty The gadget is a pressure sensor to give the engine ECU information about the air pressure (or depression) in the inlet manifold. The little stub pipe is normally connected with a rubber tube to some point on the inlet manifold. Many efi set ups have them. On the R400 in the picture and on mine, pipe is not connected to the manifold and so the signal to the ECU is always "atmospheric pressure". This suggests that the manifold signal is not required on the R400, but the unit is left in place to give a signal and correct continuity of sensor circuit to the ECU (if unplugged, the ECU might think there is a sensor failure). The wire joins into the main engine harness bundle near the MBE ECU. May I ask, are you installing a R400 engine in your car? Did it come with an MBE ECU? If it is running a different ECU, the gadget may not be required, hence no green plug. I only have my MBE car as a reference point. Others may know more possible variants. Hope this helps 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

......not in West Sussex but these people may be able to help. here 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi ECR The R400 is a fine piece of kit. Decently quick without the foibles of the highly strung R500 or the 'one-off' non standard nature of highly developed non-factory spec cars. So, good luck with your hunt for a nice one. There is nothing that should be a particular problem buying a R400 assming all the usual things about a used car - condition, servicing, crash damage/repair history. On top of the actual car in question, I always try to think about the person selling it. Are they interested in the car, respectful of it, fastitious in attending to servicing and open about about any problems they've had and can show they were properly addressed (and money spent) to keep every thing tip-top. And their reason for sale can be important, too. Gut feel has to be right, I suppose. Current market prices are best researched on Pistonheads, Autotrader and any others you can find advertised on the web-o-net. Once I started to home in on a specific model and specification list, I became quite tuned-in to what was an appropriate price for each car I saw. It seems much more cost effective to buy one with all the bits you desire than to have to start buying and fitting them to make the car what you want. It's all the "extras" which depreciate fastest. They make the car desirable but not necessarily worth more. Then HAGGLE some!!! My final close was to get the car delivered by trailer to my house, saving me trailer hire, fuel and a 6 hour round trip. I wish you success in finding a good example of one of the true greats amongst Caterhams. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Yeah. Rollbar is right. Just use the name you are looking for in the search function 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

I just took one of those cylindrical shaped CBS tanks (pictured in link posted above) off my car. It leaked oil out of the unions for the little 'sight glass' tube, the angle of the pipes on it made the hose from the dry-sump 'tower' rub the underside of the bonnet and it weighs a whopping 750g ❗ Reverted to traditional transluscent plastic screenwash bottle, side entry pipe through wall of bottle and vented through cap to pipe which ends just below the passenger floor. Very good function and super light. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

BMTR motorsport tyres dept can do CR500s at a better price than they show on their website. You have to convince Paul you are a "competitor". I just got a set. Fitted, new valves and balanced, they were less than CC's price + carriage and then paying local garage to fit, valve and balance. If you can arrange to drive by that area, BMTR are a good place to go. I, errm, just happened by chance to have my 7's wheels in the boot of the tintop when I had a work trip up that way 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi All I am considering fitting a cage to my 2005 S3 de-dion. The reason for this is for increased safety on trackdays at fast circuits. Petty strut would go some way, but I regularly take a passenger on the track. There is also the side benefit of better protection if something untoward occured on the road. (No, I'm not paranoid or I'd be driving a Volvo) There seems to be two main options available 1. Roadsport/Academy cage 2. Superlight cage I'm aware of the differences regarding fitting or not of weathergear and the relative aesthetics. My main concerns are regarding the fitting (and subsequent removal) of a cage. Are all the required mounting lugs or tubes built into the car's frame to facilitate fitting for each type 🤔 (would be nice to know before I start poking holes in skin panels and find there is nothing to bolt on to !!!!) Apart from the visual differences are there substantial differences in Weight and Strength 🤔 Any structural/torsional stiffness effects 🤔 Is there a general wisdom on what to do to plug the holes on a de-caged car and what is regarded as "acceptable" 🤔 What effect would cage have on future sale value if left fitted or if removed leaving holes (or plugged holes) 🤔 A lot of questions , but any advice or shared experiences of fitting and living with a cage would be welcome Thanks in anticipation 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi Bertie Did you ever get to a solution with your concern with the rear suspension on your R400? 🤔 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Part of the improvements introduced around 1996 was the redesign of the front suspension wishbone mounting points. This changed the geometry to give some ANTI DIVE effect. This means the front of the car does not compress down so much under braking. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Is the " 21 minus" in your factor a reference to the prototype Caterham 21 with alloy body? Dave21P will be along in a minute to verify....... 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Old VW Golfs had a plug-in wiper relay with integrated int wipe control. Some on-off switching sequence trggered the int function. Maybe one would plug into the wiper relay position on the 7 🤔 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

K 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

🙅🏻‍♂️ 🙅🏻‍♂️ 🙅🏻‍♂️ GREEN is the fastest. And to make sure there a fastest one to suit all drivers, several different shades of green are available. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

SPAX I 've never found them to be a very good shock. One car I put them on was worse with new SPAX adjustables than the old 85000 mile dampers. Problem seems to be that the adustment just stiffens up the Bump (compression) damping. This ruins the ride quality and ability to cope with pattery surfaces but still allows the car to float up and down on undulating roads. ☹️ On a smooth race track surface without unsettling undulations, they may seem ok (or not so bad), but they are not doing much compared with a challenging road. If you possibly can, I suggest getting a set of standard Bilsteins. They will perform much better and don't worry too much about them not being adjustable - they work! 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi Tim It would be worth checking the castor angle aswell as the other things you've done. There are normally two thick, large diameter washers on each lower wishbone bush. They can be distributed infront or behind the bush. Putting washers behind the bush (move lower wishbone forwards) increases castor. Each washer is worth about 0.6 degrees. Normal castor range to work with is around 4 to 6 degrees. In theory, more castor gives heavier steering loads, more self centring and possibly a tad more mid corner grip in turns. Unequal castor will make the car drift or drag to one side and maybe more so under braking. Having said that, I would not expect the car to feel as if the steering is sticking on lock or have an unwillingness to straighten up. Also check that there is nothing seized in the steering mechanism eg: a ball joint or the rack itself could be sticking. The rack can be adjusted with the big thrust nut over the pinion. If rack is bent, need a new rack. Although one can identify an individual suspension parameter which may be "out" of spec, ultimately the set up must be regarded as a whole, giving consideration to all the variables together, but that is fine tuning once you've overcome what sounds like a problem/fault. Hope this gives you some steer on the subject (boom, boom - no cheesey pun intended) Post on how you get on. Good Luck 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Castor Each washer worth about 0.6 degrees. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

R300/400 are supplied by CC preset 3500 green goes out 4500 first light on then progressively more lights Strobes at 7600. Aces can sell you the programmable two button control box as mentioned in post above. You can keep the same dashtop light display (it's the same). 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

What Engine? 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

The mountain bike cable would be OK for up to about 160bhp, but for more powerful engines it may not be strong enough to transmit all the power 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬