6speedmanual

It may be worth considering where the final mapping and set-up is to be done and then use that actual rolling road and operator for the initial pre-tweaking power run. The variations from one RR to another can be wide! 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Pat First dibs, please. DeDion? Can you blatmail any photos? Ta 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Heat may damage the old dampers...... and you if the damper seals burst. Billies are gas pressurised. Care.

If the coolant is leaking into the cockpit it is almost certainly the heater matrix (I take it you have a heater?) or its pipes. All the other coolant hoses are further forward in the engine bay and any leaks would drip down to the road. Previous brake fluid leak would not damage/decay metal, plastic or rubber coolant hoses so probably unrelated. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Milt One possible reason it is suggested to torque bushes at the earlier stage is because when the engine is in, the fixings are less accessible, especially with a torque wrench. One way round this: One suspension is assembled, lower the car onto the floor and place weight (approx) equivalent to the engine on the chassis rails where the engine mounts go (or just get a friend to stand in there). Do all the fixings up to the correct torque. That will get the metalastic buses to a fairly neutral installed condition. Then raise back up for the rest of the build...... 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi Milt When car is standing on the ground with its weight on the wheels, the lower wishbones should be about horizontal, maybe sloping slightly downward to the outboard (wheel) end. With the car jacked up, the spring/damper assembly will be at full extended length and the wishbone will be angled quite steeply downwards. The rubber bushes should be gripped in the normal ride height position, hence the recommendation to torque up the suspension fixings once the car is standing full weight on its wheels. When the front wheels are jacked up off the deck, the front uprights should be quite easy to turn from lock to lock by hand. Sounds as if something is binding. Try disconnecting the steering rack to check the uprights move freely. Then check the rack is not binding by turning the steering wheel lock to lock. There should be little resistance and certainly no stickiness. It is possible the pinion adjusting nut has been incorrectly set. Hope this helps. Let us know..... 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

I second Hazzer I don't think the centre rear view mirror is a legal requirement. Unless anyone can say otherwise? I don't use mine, even in a tintop. Many miles driving with trailers, fully loaded estate cars, vans without back windows and Caterham without centre mirror have got me out of the habit of looking to the centre mirror then having to look again at the side mirrors. I find my "mirror awareness" and blindspot "lifesaver" checks are better tuned as a result. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Yes, ok, I'll try to keep up. Guilty of not reading all the posts before posting I'm obviously not using enough Copaslip 😬 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

From Motor industry news tickertape....... RMIF warns on MOT plate rule suspension Recent changes to MOT rules on vehicle number plates have been temporarily suspended, meaning testers cannot fail a vehicle on these points until the deferment is lifted, warns the Retail Motor Industry Federation (RMIF). The reasons for failing a vehicle due to its number plate were updated on 1 October 2007 by the Vehicle and Operator Services Agency (VOSA). This brought them into line with the regulations for vehicles on the road. However, due to an oversight, certain changes have not yet been officially documented, so VOSA has suspended these until further notice. The following MOT failure points are suspended at present: The registration plate background overprinted or shadowed with text e.g. vehicle manufacturer name A front registration plate does not have black characters on a white background A rear registration plate does not have black characters on a yellow background A registration plate obviously not displaying the name and postcode of the supplying outlet A registration plate obviously not displaying a BSAU 145d marking A registration plate obviously displaying a honeycomb or similar effect background A registration plate with a non-reflective border obviously wider than permitted or positioned too close to the characters A dual purpose registration plate displaying a symbol other than an acceptable international symbol or flag Stephen Coles from the RMIF's MOT Operations team, commented: 'From 2001 until last month, a car could pass the MOT on what was would be considered an illegal number plate on the road by Police. The amended rules brought the two regimes into line. The new rules will continue once cleared, but until further notice MOT testers must not fail a vehicle on these points. Neither does it mean that these plate features will be legal for use on the road. Instead, testers should make the vehicle owner aware of the offending features, and point out that they could be stopped by the Police if they are spotted.' Coles added: 'We are working closely with VOSA to help rectify the situation, and they will publish a special notice shortly to clarify the situation. RMIF members who require further advice are urged to contact the RMIF's MOT Operations Team.' D A T E : Wednesday, November 21, 2007 Have your say in the Autowired Forum 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Those "tough" rivets are the proper ones for the job. Softer rivets which are sold in car accessory shops are not the right spec and my loosen over time in the areas where they do experience stress. The hard ones are tough to fit by hand which is why (further up this thread IIRC) the use of an air powered rivetter is recommended. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬 Edited by - 6speedmanual on 19 Nov 2007 13:09:23

Holding ali panels in place with well tightened self tapping screws would probably not compromise the stiffening effect on the chassis. However, personally I would not for the following reasons: Adds extra weight over rivets (ali or steel) Takes longer to fit them Looks untidy (black rivets look original and neat) Even black coated screws can start to rust in the crosshead where the screwdriver damages the coating Holes in chassis will get narled by the screw thread cutting into the metal May be alright first time, but second time screws may not bite and start to turn in holes (stripped threads) Screws may rust in and snap when being undone - hard to drill out a broken s/t screw Yes some of the above issues can be aleviated with Waxoyl, but overall I don't think screwing panels to be an elegant solution. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

I agree dishwasher (no salt). 3 passes may be required for well stuck on carbon. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

D J 😶‍🌫️ (and neat little K dig too. hehe Errr... this posting is not a joke.[serious smiley] Engine management rev limit is set to 7700rpm. here is a very useful info source (also for k 😬 ) Some type of ecu controlled fuel injection cut-off will be applied which acts across the various injectors in sequence to give a softish cut. (good ol'fashioned ignition cut no good as it can allow unburned fuel down exhaust into cats) Mechanical rev limit (which could possibly be important if one is in the habit of downshifting at excessive roadspeed for the gear....???? Dunno???? Maybe one of the tuning experts or a EuroCup racer would have information on this. I would hope the unit would be robust to at least 8250rpm if the engine management allows powered revving to 7700. What lets go first? Rods/pistons/valve gear???? AVONs..... The CR500 is an exceptionally good tyre but as with any subjective aspect of car grip/handling this is a subjective point and there have been many debates about this previously. What I can confirm from speaking with an AVON motorsports division engineer is that the rubber compound does not really get out of bed until ambients of over 10 deg C. On these cold mornings we're having, the CR500 is soundly snoring with pyjamas and nightcap on. Worth exercising great caution in these winter months. Also the rubber compound is about dead after two years. This is not too much of an issue as they only last 3-6000 miles. But beware the very low mileage "garage preserved" 7 still sitting on original tyres at 4 years old 🙅🏻‍♂️ Will be distinctly skittish , especially in the wet. ......end serious post. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

When there's a loud bang and hole in the bonnet and a puddle underneath, well, the rev limit is around there somewhere 😳 😬 ...ducks.... 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi again Unless the whiskers from the moulding are actaully touching/melting onto exhaust pipe, or the hot gas is blowing directly onto the rubber (which it shouldn't be if you have rear exit), I just can't see enough heat transfer to get the rubber up to smelly-point. [especially with such low ambient temp]. The tyres are not rubbing or catching somewhere else, are they, eg under the wings or on a rear coilover? or... if exhaust is touching tyre only on a dynamic situation (bumps/cornering), there would be tell tale marks on the pipe. Can you smell it when moving or standing in traffic? P 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi Terry Is the operational centre of the ball joint in the same position as the factory suspension geometry? It looks a bit higher up off the top of the upright in the photo, but maybe this is just an optical illusion due to the less bulky componentry and lack of rubber boot filling the gap? Peter 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Maybe something to do with correctly "launching" the glow plug cycle. Most diesel glow plug cycles have a pre-heat and then a heat cycle which continues into the engine warm-up running, 1o, 20, 30 seconds or more depending on ambient temperatures. I'm guessing here but maybe an ECU is looking for a moment when the key is turned to "cranking" position and the engine has started running???? releasing the key just when you sense it picking up the first firing stroke is maybe fooling it.....? An VAG technical boffins on here? 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

3.38:1 made the "touring" ratio. CWP is apparently hard to come by - only fitted to German spec Sierra diesel automatics by Ford. I've heard that's why no longer listed. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

OFF TOPIC question about the family hack, just in case anone can shed any light.... Year 2000 S202 C200 PETROL 5speed TipShift AUTOMATIC. 93000 miles Full service history. Had a B service at 81000 and an A service at 92000. Very recently, just over a week ago, it has developed an odd problem. It starts from cold fine. When driving away, it pulls away ok but feels slightly sluggish. It then seems reluctant to change up through the box, but it does eventually go up the gears to 3rd. Then it seems to be limited to 4000rpm and stays in 3rd gear. It feels as if some default/safe mode has cut in. If I then slow down and stop the car the engine starts to judder (1 mile and about 3 minutes after setting off). (This feels as bit like the judder one would get if one trying to pull away in too high a gear in a manual, however, the revs are still at normal tickover speed c 800rpm) If the gear selector is then moved to Neutral or Park, the juddering continues. This suggests that the juddering is not caused by the gearbox/torque converter as it continues even when there is no drive load. Gently increasing engine speed with the accelerator pedal does not seem to clear the judder and the engine feels slow to rev up relative to what would be expected from a prod on the accelerator pedal. If the engine is then turned OFF and restarted a few(say 10) seconds later, the problem has disappeared and the car drives with its normal performance with lively acceleration (relative term as this is a C200) and changes up and down through the gears normally. Used every day but has only done this 3 times in the last 10 days. It may depend on the ambient temperature at cold start and drive away. I feel this is some issue with the warm up cycle of the engine and when some sensor parameters are wrong, the ecu is holding back the car's performance. Can anyone make any suggestions to confirm or otherwise if it lies in the engine management or sensors? Is it a known issue to anyone? Where I should start to look for the cause of this problem and set about fixing it? I am a competent mechanic at tackling any work but my brain cannot form a telepathic link with a Merc control module I look forward to your replies! P Merc C200 82bhp/ton = not very much 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

When I was an impoverished student running a seriously worn out engine, I clipped a hose to the top of the dipstick tube and routed it into a catch bottle to avoid flooding the entire engine bay / underside of car / road with the oil being ejected . When the bottle filled up, I just emptied back into the engine. This method got me through several terms without having to rebuild the engine in the kitchen of the digs ❗ 😬 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

here JIC any of you not seen them Scrolling through these reminded me of the enjoyable day 😬 following the enjoyable 50YOT7 camping weekend 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

It's a "No-Brainer".... You'd only use one of these if you had NO brain! It's amazing anyone even bothered to spend time writing the 57 pages of waffle that make up the brochure Actually, on second thoughts maybe the multi pot version used in conjuntion with rollerbarrel throttles would end up with a.... ...very flat battery 😔 😳 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

.....just that for a low torque application the clamping force of the fixing is often sufficient. Keying is most useful when positional location is required, eg a camshaft. Better to keep engineering simple and cost effective for the job it is required to do. If your pump ingests something... well you'll have more to worry about than whether the pully slips enough to save the pump ❗ ❗ *eek* ... like what lump of metal just escaped from the moving parts of the engine 😳 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Whenyou build the car, Think Light. The best time to add lightness is when assembling and every part can be considered before fitting. It's much more work to lighten afterwards by taking things off again. 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬

Hi Mav Thanks for the links. That's not really where I was coming from. What I mean is for a section for all the threads about who is meeting up in which carpark/layby/petrol station at what time and what routes to follow, etc...... This would make it far more accessible. If for eg someone want to go on an ad hoc blat one sunday am there is place to look to see what's happening. 🤔 6SpeedManual *tongue*There's no such thing as too much BHP per Ton 😬