Andy Best

Sean, I have found that I can get all the electrical connectors needed for the caterham from www.polevolt.co.uk. The part looks standard and exists on my car but its a K engine so the connector maybe Rover specific. I know your in the US but it maybe worth a call to Polevolt they've always come up with the goods for me and they do sell single units. Andy

I wanted to achieve the same and mounted SPA mirrors on the windscreen stanchions. Drill and tap an extra hole and use the existing middle securing screw. Some fibre washers in the mirrors adjustment fasteners (ie the arm that joins the base to teh mirror at both ends) allows easy reposition if they are accidentally knocked See picture here been like this for 6 years now and would not go back to the big wobbly door mirrors. Andy

Last year at the 50 birthday bash George Polley indicated that the 48r would be made in 225 x 13 sizes. As I am now ready to change my tyres has anyone found these yet or found a suitable alternative 🤔 Thanks Andy

I would expect the fit to be too tight on race stays and the standard wings but probably OK on the wider wing version a few aftermarket suppliers make like RiF. I would give him a call and see what he thinks. Andy

it can be done, Stu Forshaw managed I think with nitromors. Guess he will be along soon to tell you the detail. Andy

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Take the flappy bit out of the filler neck. The new filler restricts pump entry on some cars, on mine this meant I could not fill up and looked a bit stupid on the forcourt sticking a pen down the filler to move the flap so I could get enough petrol in to get me home ❗ Andy

When I bought an emerald I was at the same point as you, new engine on the way but currently stock 1.6ss. Wanting to use the new toy I fitted the ecu and mapped it using the instruction book. I lacked the skill to get the best out of it and ended up putting the ss ecu back until I got a new engine. Unless you are going to get the emerald mapped for your engine I would stick with the SS ecu for now. When the new engine had the ecu mapping session it was totally transformed but to get it done properly it will cost nearer £300 which is a big investment for marginal return. Andy

I think there are concerns with the standard piston lands if you see outputs above 165 bhp. Limiting the revs will help as cagey says but wheres the fun in that 😬. I also understand that the later trophy pistons are slightly stronger. I think you will find more details on DVAs website. Tom send the DSLR back and go for broke with the full kit and forged pistons. Andy

If I was looking for a VHPD head I would pay up £200 for a good secondhand one with no mods. Add to that £125 for the solid followers £125 for the cams and springs etc gets you to about £450 for the head, £200 for the full TB assembly and filter extra if the injectors are included I possibly £80-100 for the verniers. At present the markets a bit dead for K performance parts so if you are desperate to sell expect less. If you bolt this onto a standard bottom end ie non forged pistons you will probably ruin the pistons. Andy

I went from 13" 185/60's alround to 205/60's at the rear this changed the handling for the worse. Fortunatly I have adjustable platforms so lowering the back sorted the problem. Just thought you might like to know. Andy

I use halfords synthetic oil usually get two for one offers I find its about 7l to do a change. Fram rover mgf filter from the local motor factor there is a part number but I can never remember it. Try powervamp for the battery speak to ed roller for club prices Powervamp Andy

I removed the banner battery mount and cut it in half and then re-fixed it in the original place. The top strap can then be flatted drilled for the new fixing hole and re bent. Can't go back to a banner but then why would I? If interested I can send some pics tomorrow, drop me a blat mail. Andy

Thanks Myles my original starter is not the same as yours hopefully it will be an easy job though. Andy

At the end of last year before moving house I bought a Brise starter motor. It is lurking in one of the boxes in the garage and I plan to find it & fit it over Easter. I seem to recall thinking this is not going to be easy as wires will need to be lengthened and crimps at the ends are different. To avoid getting to Sunday and finding I don't have all the right parts can the wisdom of blatchat let me know what I need to change the from original Caterham starter motor to the Brise. Car is a 97 K series. Thanks in advance Andy

As they are secondhand I would check that they have not been shortened. The normal race stays are fine for the wheels and tyres you have. Andy

If you send the original back to CIA they will fix it for you, I tried to get one of these gauges and they are pretty rare ❗

Steve, I am interested in the black head lights, are you able to bring them to MADS tomorrow 🤔 Andy

CC I am interested, is it the latest or the earlier 45deg weave, and what is the nature of the fettlig required to fit a 97 chassis 🤔 Andy

I was faced with the same problem and had Pirtek take off the existing ends and make up a new longer version that works fine. It was also suggested that two circular disks were made up one that were fitted to the existing pipe and fuel rail. These disks are then rotated to find the best angle of exit for the fuel supply and then bolted together, I was going to use this plan until Someone suggested the Pirtek solution which for me was less time consuming and meant I could get out and use the car more quickly. Andy

When I paid someone to do mine a template was used that set out the correct opening on the head and then transferred that to the TBs using it the opposite side a bit like a gasket. The important thing is to get the actual footprint right as there is slight adjustment in the TB mounting holes to make sure you have no steps in the tract. We can discuss over a beer sometime. Andy

As a starting point I would also check that all roller barrels are opening the same amount and that all the injector plugs are properly connected. Additionally doesn't the R500 have two coils 🤔 if so it may be that one is not working properly ie providing a spark at low revs put underload its not so good. It may be possible to switch the coils over and see if the opposite results are seen. Andy

Not got one Tom but emery and black plasticote spray from halfrauds will be only a fiver, it will look like new again. So long as your old one works. Andy

A head port, Jenvey TBs and an engine balance & rebuild and remap on the standard Caterham SLR exhaust gives about 215BHP. I don't know what your power is at the moment but the cost will be circa £3000 if you get someone like DVA to do it. I would take that route if I bought a secondhand SLR of your vintage unless you knew the engine had be rebuilt reputably or well cared for just for peace of mind and to get the best out of the car. You can of course fit new cams £300 and bigger valves if required 1444 with DVAs bigger valves gives the BHP DJ quotes. Personally I am please with my standard but Scholar blocked DVA'd VHPD engine and don't plan any more engine upgrades for the foreseeable future, probably some driver upgrades though 😬 I would get on the phone to DVA tell him what driving experience your after and take it from there Andy

Paul, I have the 1999/2000 sales brochure I can't scan the book but specs are provide. I can copy the book at work next week or if you know the info needed I can look it up. PM me and I will help where I can. Andy Just edited to say I have just found a PDF version of the 08/2000 brochure in my email so this should do the trick let me know where to send it (1.14Mb) Edited by - Andy Best on 18 Jan 2008 20:49:33