Andy Best

Found the second lead must not work on car when tired! Was in the bag from caterham all along.

I have just but the kit from Caterham it's come with no instructions, I have just looked at the FAQ but it can't see how the existing battery to starter red lead will reach to the switch. Has anyone fotted one recenly and advise if I need to get another red wire. Andy

Think have told me what the part is and it's on the way, big thumbs up if they got it right from my iffy description. Andy

I have a second hand Apollo to fit but it's missing the union where the end of the braided hose to the cam cover. Caterham don't stock it but I guess think will does anyone know what I need to ask for, thread size etc. Andy

I use a sling around the engine. Remove exhaust side diagonal,exhaust manifold, alternator, starter. I also take off the coil but this is just to help the sling go around. Disconnect all electrics, fuel and water, six bolts to the bell housing and remove the two engine mounts. I think thats it. Engine will then slip off the gearbox and lift out. Sometimes the engine/gearbox takes a bit of force to separate as the dowels corrode in their holes. Andy

Don't know if this is your problem. I had a similar symptoms last year on my EU2, after checking everything else I replaced the coil which cured it. Andy

Try www.polevolt.co.uk they might have the correct one

Mike, If the deal with John falls through on the wing stays I will take them Andy

I have a 1.8 standard crank, if you're interested and will be passing through the midlands in the next couple of weeks. Open to offers. Andy

Tom, I have a spare standard rad in my garage, let me know if you would like to borrow it. It will get you to Skye and if you like it we can negotiate a price Andy

Hi, I don't know what you get in the 4 hose kit but assuming you have enough length the hose is easily cut by tightening down a clip and using it as a guide to cut the hose with a stanley knife, you may need to turn the clip to get all the way round. The hose from the thermostat to the water rail (via the heater control if you have one) and the submarine pipe to the expansion tank are all the same diameter) you need a smaller diameter one from the expansion tank to the head. 7 hoses in all. Andy Edited by - Andy Best on 30 Mar 2007 08:23:33

Thanks Dave, off to make a circular disk adapter plate.

Paul, Did you every find a solution to this problem as I am currently fitting Jenvey's and a Bernard Scouse air box and have the same problem. Tips and Pictures would be handy Andy

I think you will be pushing it on a budget to get 160 from a 1.6. Unless you want to stay with that capacity for competition I would rebuild as a 1.8. Rods and crank are all that are needed, although the press fit pistons may not be reusable. I have just sold a set of standard 1.8 pistons and rods, so I know you should be able to pick them up for not much money. DVA can more than likely supply or you can pick them up as you go along. If you end up short of a crank let me know I have a spare 1.8 thats been checked by Dave and is OK for reuse I had a new crank and decided to use that in my conversion. Andy

get the bling look http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-K-Series-Mirrored-Stainless-Cam-Cover-Plate-MG-ZR_W0QQitemZ270084713745QQihZ017QQcategoryZ72205QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Andy Edited by - Andy Best on 30 Jan 2007 22:15:58

Try the 7FAQ page about wiring a Big Red Starter button here

Stu, I am sure Arch will supply all the rivets you need to put it back together, give Bruce a ring Monday he sorted me with rivits to repair the floor. Andy Edited by - Andy Best on 20 Jan 2007 20:53:47

Polisher Daves quadrants are just what the Jenveys need you do need a bracket like the one Bernard makes, but this would be easy for anyone to make for non K heads. Andy

When I fitted wider wheels I had the same problem, I was advised to fit the drop links to the inboard side of the ARB and dedion and the job was sorted. I also had to remove part of the dedion end plate with an angle grinder as the inner face of the wheel touched the rear part of the endplate, some need this mod others don't. Andy

Good news Stu and I'm getting feedup with Follower shims - makes my task seem easy in comparison. Andy

The shift light comes pre wired as far as I remember one red and one black wire. The red needs to be connected to 12v when the car is running and the black wire goes to pin 19 on the ECU which is switched to earth when 7400rpm is reached. When I converted my 97 1.6 to SS I needed to add the pin into the wiring loom but the pin was already on the end of the black wire. If you look at the ECU connection side of the plug, the middle pin row on the ECU plug starts at 13 on the left hand side (this pin is further to the left than pin 36 above and 12 below) so you can easily work out which connection should be made. You then pop out the White front plate of the ECU connector remove pin 19 blanking bung and push the black wire in replacing the white front plate to locate the new pin. The black wire may already be in the loom and if so you find it where the purple ECU power lead exits the loom above the bell housing, if not it may be hidden behind the dash. Hope this helps. Andy Edited by - Andy Best on 9 Jan 2007 17:57:31

As far as I am aware it's either Caterham or TSK TSK 2a Sandcliffe Road Erith Kent DA8 1NY 01322 441604 Andy

Oily, Thanks, I will e-mail you tonight the engine will be on it's way to you for reassembly I didn't realise you could supply the new bits and was trying to get a fully set of parts before I came down to see you. Got a few spare VHPD rods and crank if your interested btw Andy

Thanks for the info, Tom , wouldn't mind the stat housing if you can bring it to MADS next week that would be great. Cagey thanks couldn't remember the name of Mavs contact. Andy

As the title says I am currently building a new VHPD Scholar evo 2 engine. I need a new/reconditioned oil pump, water pump and thermostat housing. Has anybody got a good source of parts 🤔 tried the internet searches etc but just get breakers yards returned. Andy