Andy Best

OK thanks for your comments, can do bickies and bleeding the water system is easy since I fitted the Bricol bleed tee . Never thought of the fuel filter, car has done about 20000 mls never had a problem with the fuel supply but if I were to change the filter where is it 🤔 Andy

I have a RR session booked at Emerald next week, the engine (K series Scholar 1.8 bottom end VHPD head valves and cams) has done 1000mls since it was built by DVA, what should I do in prep for the mapping. So far I have changed the oil to Halfords synthetic and put on a new oil filter. I plan to get a new air filter. I have checked all the coolant hoses and will replace a couple of perished looking ones later today. Can anyone suggest anyting else 🤔 Thanks in advance Andy Edited by - Andy Best on 17 Sep 2007 19:48:11

Take a look in for sale there's a link to a full duratec engine with 10 miles on the clock on ebay currently £750 + VAT

PM sent Angus

I have some pictures, if you drop me your e-mail I will mail the to you. Andy

Could be the rear shock. Andy

Thanks for the comments, Rob do you know what is a good figure for advance when the engine is hot to start?

I the spring I upgraded to a DVA 1800cc Scholar blocked VHPD spec engine, the engine is great 😬. One problem I have is on longish spirited drives the starter seems to get very hot to the point it's turning over slowly. Twice since the upgrade the car has need a push to start, a bit difficult when you're on your own ❗ As part of the upgrade I fitted a new redtop battery so I know thats OK, also on a cool day blatting and gentle runs (well I have been running in) the car will start when hot. It's also not the K series click of death as the starter is turning the engine just too slow to start. As a 1.6ss I never had this problem even on the hotest runs on the Lemans trips, does anybody know if the VHPD produces noticably more exhaust heat than the 1.6 🤔 I am just trying to work out if I should fit a new starter or some heat insulation as the car will be going to Emerald for a mapping session on the way to 50 years of the seven and I don't want to run into starting problems whilst I am there. Cheers Andy

I went down the IPaq 6900 route 12 months ago. Its got a phone, email, gps all in one PDA. Its not the best single device in any catergory but as a combined unit its great. If you need to use GPS for more than half an hour get power lead though. Got the phone on contract with the added Tom Tom software total cost was about £200. Andy

I don't think you can block off the pipe heading toward the back of the cars as it is a fuel tank breather, you will need to block off at the plenum though. I think that's right but I will wait to be corrected. Andy Edited by - Andy Best on 19 Aug 2007 22:44:29

I got some spa style formula mirrors from Demon Tweaks here. Make sure you get the smaller of the two sizes, with convex glass. Availbe in carbon or ABS. Andy

I got a red set from Rally Design the only problem is that if you go away from the blue there is usually an order lead time. Andy

I am the local lad to which Stu refers, the incident was about three years ago. It was an insurance repair but I did the labouring. To give a full answer ie total spend including the hidden items. Arch came in at £440 for the removal of the rear skin and rear wheel carrier. This included some limited repair and repaint of the rear chassis as well as the new rear skin. TSK added £211.50 for the respray. Add on the transport cost £150, overnight stays £100 (I had to travel down to the smoke) and a few items from Caterham £50 and the whole job is in the region of £950. As for labour there is a half day to prepare, a couple of days transporting and a couple of days to put back together so a cost of £1,500 for someone else to do it is about right. There are probably a few savings that can be had by haggling so I would ring Bruce and Tony to get the current figures. But then again there are a few things that you tend to add as part of the upgrade 😬 new aero filler, carbon wings/sill protectors, wheels and tyres in my case that puts the actual cost closer to £3,000 ❗ So I was glad the insurance paid half. Andy

Here is the full K Series Dry Sump part list as provided by CC Line Part No. Description Quantity T Item Line Edited Bin UOM 1 08454 WASHER BOTTLE BRACKET - 1 N 2 1/2BSPT BLANKING PLUG - ROVER/VX 1 N 3 75717 OILPIPE-D.S.PUMP TO TOWER 1 N 4 70106 OIL HOSE-D.S.TANK TO SUMP/ROV 1 N 5 70107 BOLT-B'TANKHSG/G'BOX-ROVE 4 N 6 73154 RAD HOSE-ROV DRY 1 N 7 73155 COOLING SUBMARINE-1 1 N 8 75668 M5X12 SOCKET CAP SCREW 6 N 9 75669 5/8 BSP FLANGE UNION 1 N 10 75675 O RING 5/8 UNION TO 1 N 11 75663 SCAVENGE OIL PUMP(GOLD)- 1 N 12 75716 HI-LINE PIPE/BRACKET ADPT 1 N 13 75680 SUMP BAFFLE D/SUMP ROVER 1 N 14 75722 HI-LINE SCAVENGE FILTER 1 N 15 75682 SLEEVE OIL SUPPLY ROVER 1 N 16 75683 SUMP PAN ROVER D/SUMP 1 N 17 75684 M5X16 SOCKET CAP SCREW 6 N 18 75685 M8X70 SOCKET CAP SCREW 1 N 19 75686 M8X80 SOCKET CAP SCREW 1 N 20 75687 O RING SUMP TO FILTER 1 N 21 75688 JUBILEE CLIP ROV DS PUMP 1 N 22 75715 POLYVEE BELT-ROVER D/SUMP 1 N 23 75690 DRY SUMP BELLTANK ROVER 1 N 24 75697 OIL PUMP BRACKET ROVER 1 N 25 75698 BOTTOM PLATE ROVER 1 N 26 75721U SWIRL TOWER/TOP PLATE ASS 1 N 27 75718 ALLOY SPACER-HI-LINE PIPE 2 N 29 75711 ROVER 5/8 BSP CRUSH 1 N 30 75712 D/SUMP ENG.MOUNT BRKT 1 N 31 75709 SCAVENGE HOSE-1"JUMBO-ROV 1 N 32 79002 CLUTCH STOP-QH CLUTCH 1 N 33 79003 DIP STICK COVER PLATE 1 N 34 AN/1842 CLUTCH ACTUATING FORK 1 N 35 FB 110101 BOLT-MAN STRUT/ALT.ADJ/DS PUMP 1 N 36 FIRDS-RACE FIT INSTRUCTIONS-ROV DRY 1 N 37 HW/1174 BOLT-M5x12 ROV/VX D/S 8 N 38 P1290A EXPANSION BOTTLE CAP-NO HOLE 1 N 39 WSB125 CATCH TANK-OIL 2 LITRE 1 N 40 WSH3/16 WASHER-3/16"HEAVY DUTY 10 N 41 WSH5/16 WASHER-5/16"HEAVY DUTY 4 N 42 WSHM12 WASHER-M12 HVY DUTY 4 N 43 71167 TEMP SENDER WATER (ALL 1 N 44 75713 M8X25 CAPHEAD SETSCREW- 2 N 45 75714 M8X45 CAPHEAD BOLT-ROVER 2 N 46 OGS8 FUEL HOSE-8MM(CARB TO 1 N 47 SGT8-16 HOSE CLIP- 8mm-16mm 1 N 48 SGT25-40 HOSE CLIP- 25mm-40mm 2 N 49 77532 OIL UNION APAPTER-5/8"X5/8"MAL 1 N 50 75697T TENSIONER-ROVER OIL PUMP 1 N 51 75697S SCREW-TENSIONER-ROVER DRY 2 N 52 BMCH10X100 BOLT-METRIC CAPHEAD/ROVER 2 N 53 SP1/8X1.1/2 SPLIT PIN-1/8"X1.1/2" 1 N 54 77532 OIL UNION ADAPTER-5/8"X5/ 1 N 55 216-5/8" DOWTY SEAL 5/8" 1 N 56 HW/1482 REDUCED DIAMETER CAPHEAD 2 N 57 MP/1112 1/2" CRUSH WASHER - DRY 1 N 58 6118746 FILLER PLUG DIFF & DRAIN 1 N 59 75664 FLANGED IDLER PULLEY R500 1 N 60 1300-40MM CIRCLIP-40mm R500 DRYSUMP 1 N 61 MP/1112 1/2" CRUSH WASHER - DRY 1 N 62 75710U 5/8X5/8 BSP FILTER UNION 1 N 63 75710-OR O-RING-FOR 75710U FILTER 2 N Edited by - Andy Best on 13 Aug 2007 16:03:42

Just a thought some senders need an earth to work are you sure this has been achieved. Andy

I must admit I was unsure about engine balancing, Oily gave some input as did a number of other owners who had built/rebuilt engines. I understand that an engine can only be balanced properly when its in bits. Its the bits that go round pullies, crank, flywheel and clutch cover and the rods and pistons that need to be balanced as individual items and then as a set. The assembly also has to be undertaken carefully to ensure the bits are put back together in the correct orientation to each other to maintain the balance achieved. After my research I decided that my engine would be balanced by Vibration Free and assembled by Oily. The work was not cheap but when considering the time that goes into the balancing and assembly fair. Although I have only done 800 miles with the engine there are noticeable improvements over the old engine, very steady idle, smoother response both during acceleration and deceleration and the gearbox is a lot more quite in neutral and off the gas motoring. All this has been achieved so far without a proper Emerald map I hope I am still as happy after my visit to Dave Walker in September 😬 Was this as a result of the balancing and build or some of the other bits that got added 🤔 The truth is I don't know, but I am certainly a lot happier with this engine compared against the old one. I doubt I would take an engine apart just to balance it but as part of a wider upgrade refresh plan I wouldn't hesitate to have an engine balanced and assembled correctly in future. Andy

Ed, I had a smaller budget than you to start, I looked at many cars over a too long period and in the end spent more than I originally intended . I also had a similar outlook to you, I wanted a car for a good period of time that I could improve over the years with mixed use. I spent a lot of time at local meets asking questions trying out different cars during which time I built my own wish list. I wanted a good clean car that had as many of the expensive parts I wanted, I didn't get all I wanted but I had fun with upgraditus for the last 6 years and still have a few more jobs on the list 😬. One thing I have learnt is that the seven is easy to work on and to change spec in the future if you want to, but it is best to pick a sensible starting point. If I was in your position now I would be looking for higher spec as possible in a tidy condition and of all the second handers out there at the moment the 1.6/SL would be high on my list. Try and give one a try and see what you think. OK it's a K but if you treat it properly you should be OK with the head gasket, if it does fail they can be fixed relatively easily these days by a visit to someone like DVA Power. The only problem is you will succumb to the shiny bits on the shelf and come out with a few more BHP under the bonnet Thats my 2d hope it helps

I would even if you forget the safety issue it's a bu66er to get something out if you drop it in ❗, the're cheap as chips from Caterham.

I went Scholar put together by DVA similar to Johnty but stuck with 1800, Dave does some additional work to block when putting it together and checks every part of the build. I stayed with Apollo after a discussion with Dave and a review of the funds. the engine has only done 700 miles so far but I am really pleased so far. Andy

Given you hav ejust got a new Emerald my comment is probably not valid then, my Emerald is several years old now. Andy

Yes I had a problem, after talking to Karl at Emerald it was to do with the firmware version I was running and the date the Emerald was built. Emerald will provide an upgrade version but it must relate to your actual Emerald serial number, so I can't send you my upgrade I am afraid. I had the problem with firmware version 2.4 I think from version 2.6 the problem I was having was fixed. Andy

I would ring Caerbont in Abercrave near Swansea Tel +44 1639 732208. I expect they made it originally and can usually repair or if not make you a new one that looks like the old one. Andy

What have you checked so far? I would try and check the engine earth, battery, alternator, leads and coil. Battery volts 13-14 Easiest way to check the coil and leads is swapping from a known working engine. Andy

fitted the 'Bricol' bled tee into a samco silicon pipe no problems but then I had no problems sealing any of the other joints either. Get a good clip that seals all the way round and make sure you clean the inside of the hose where it will fit on the tee. Andy

Does anyone know the wisdom about the foam for the Apollo, I currently don't have any and was wondering if I should fit some. The sump foam has already bee ditched on Oilys advice.