DohNut

Morning If you have read the FAQ you are already well ahead of the game, the search is also useful. Re rustproofing - Waxoyl is the preventative, POR15/Hammerite etc are used when your powdercoat has come off and you need to treat the bare metal. Particuar attention to the bit between the sideskin and the footwell as this collects dirt/sand which then remains damp. N

The guy is obviously a twat - there are a lot about - I had one fail me because there was no non-slip coating on the brake pedal. I think that the wording of the MOT will be on his side however as many people can get away without side repeaters, but if they are fitted and one bulb is not working you will definately fail, same as your absent windscreen wipers did not fail you but if they are fitted and not working then they will. Nick

As has been said, at that age your wing holes will not be as per the "standard" spacing Drill a hole at the highest point of the rear wing (before you remove it) where there is a small metal plate just by of the top damper mount. If you get this one point right you should be able to hang the wing on just one bolt and line up the front and rear edges. I found a 7inch diameter wire brush on a bench grinder was rather useful, even if just to have a look at what is underneath the crap / rust / paint before throwing it away. Nick

Maybe as a condition of sale the lathe should be made available to Blatchatters in return for food Nick

I would say that moving from Green Stuff to 1144 was the best single upgrade I made to my car , It now feels like it is being stopped from the front rather than the rear. [i should in all fairness add that I think I may have slightly contaminated the inner pads of the Green Stuff with grease 😳] Nick

It would be consistent for a "bigger" cam to have a poorer idle than a milder cam, this could be a reason why the idle is higher. I think the methodolgy of setting the advance at idle is to increase the advance below the intended idle speed and reduce it above the inteded idle speed (at the zero load site) that way if the idle starts rising the advance is retarded and if the revs drop down too low the advance increases preventing it stalling. Nick

The "hot" settings should be the normal running settings The choke is used to richen up the cold running settings. So I would guess that your idle jets/bypass needs to be changed. I think this started from changing the dizzy to megajolt, you will be getting much more advance at idle than before which will increase the idle speed which was previously being propped up by the carbs. Nick

The manifold pressure line on the regulator is most often used for forced induction where it varies the fuel pressure, ramping it up in line with the boost pressure. This gives a better chance of maintaining reasonable injector sizes/duration both at idle and full boost N

I know that Vulcan has done this, it was a kind of stepped plug (with an O-ring?) that was held in place by the same clamp that holds the distributer in place. He was doing this for a rather nice alloy head xflow, I was going to get a blanking plug off him for £15 or there abouts but he had run out of material last time I was in. Nick

OK Vapour looks nice You could change the Ambient temp to do Oil while the "engine" temp does water, but its still missing oil pressure. It might be possible to bodge one of the temp inputs to indicate oil pressure I guess. But how much? PS what I really wanted was a Dash-7 but I gave up checking the website and my mails were never returned. ☹️

Thomas Having had 185/60/14 185/70/13 185/60/13 😬 The 60 profiles look best -I hated the look of the 70 profile, but that was with the cheap Avons, maybe the 021s have a squarer profile and dont look so bad. N

Well its an engine for a 7 You should pity the bloke who had his 911 engine returned 😬 N

Hi all Well things move quickly, an industrial buyer has snapped up 10 and the staff have taken 4, which leaves about 4. Photos of Desks The ones that remain after the above will not be as shiney. Having offered I dont want to put anyone off but it just got more complicated the more I looked into it. Final numbers of what is available after the industrial buyer has fitted what he can into his lorry. They need to be removed by Thursday, or possibly Friday They do come apart, but it is complicated (sliding tops to hide cables etc) in one peice they are huge, heavy and upstairs two/three people to carry Office is in Knaphill just outside woking Cheers Nick

Our office is being re-furbed and we have some office desks going cheap (prob free) They are the curved fronted 90 degree types that can be clustered together pretty neatly. N

Speaking of Muppets, if this engine/gearbox interface is for Counts engine, I really dont see the point, he just can't change gear fast enough to warrant it. One - ah ah ah Two - ah ah ah Three - ah ah... by which time he needs to brake, and, as he does not count backwards he would need to start again Given these limitations I suggest a gearbox from a Honda C-90 pizza bike 1-2-3-N-1-2.... N 😬

I understood one of the factors for the Touring cars was that you could fit bigger brake disks under them, which may be an issue on a heavy racing car, but is rarely the limiting factor on a car with road tyres. N

Have a look at Raceline's website - lots of shiney bits I assume you have looked into you axle as well as the standard Axle will not last for long with that kind of power. N

I believe it uses a sphincter sensor on the drivers seat 😶‍🌫️ N

But why do you want twenty 🤔

I thought the MegaJolt light Jr. was les than £100 (+ sensors?) If you are really tight then you could get it to run on speed only (although you would loose much of the economy benefit.) If you are thinking of spending anywhere near £500 then something like an emerald becomes a possibility (nearer 650?) But that is then expandable to injection or easy to offload secondhand. Nick

I think my battery is dead and I need a new one, is there a deal on a good battery west londonish and/or what is a good cold start cranking current 🤔 Nick

Try the quaife site or DVA power

Alex I have an old Skool X-flow with forged pistons and 244 cam etc. I was having a chat with the Alpha guys at Weber and they mentioned that they would be happy with a standardish 16v engine to run without an IACV but that an 8v engine in my state of tune would struggle to idle. I guess if you have approaching a JPE state of tune your engine would be equally cantankerous at idle. The bleed screws I am thining of are 4mm diameter brass thread (without a proper head) and lock nut. N

Just thought - there may be idle screws that bypass the butterflys N

Alex The intention of the Weber setup is to have the throttles completely shut and control the idle entirely by the iacv. The throttles should be balanced by default as If they are completely closed every time you shut the throttle, if you required confirmation then you could balance them so that they are all zero. You can smooth the idle by forcing the throttles slightly open on the throttle stop which will take it off the idle load site and possilbly disable the iacv. I have an early Weber iacv which is analogue, in that is is not a stepper motor, I improved my idle by disassembling the iacv cleaning and lubricating the piston. Unfortunatley I think the crux of it is that the idle speed is set too low, it sounds great to have a lumpy irregular beat but it shakes my car around, resting my foot on the throttle to got 800rpm to 1100rpm smoothes it out completely - but sounds boring Nick