DohNut
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Everything posted by DohNut
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Rolling road advice re upgraded ECU (early Emerald)
DohNut replied to McBreadhead's topic in TechTalk
It was trying to breath through a very small hole -
Actually using a wind tunnel whats wrong with testing on the caterham bypass with some duct tape and some bits of wool. The Swiss turbo cars had a bit of mesh bonded into the nose cone to aid cooling, I believe it worked. I have been wanting to hack about an old nose cone with a vent but only duct half the air up through it leaving half the air to flow through the engine bay, There is even an argument for ducting some air around the radiator and into the engine bay. To cool the engine ancilliaries and footwells. Nick What would be interesting is seeing how much of that valid area of nosecone is negative (or low) pressure including the sides of the nosecone.
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Craig Remember that the CSR is the same nose as the SV - ie wider than the standard one. I have a feeling the hole was cut using the "that looks nice" method rather than the extensive wind tunnel research. Nick
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Alan got your mail blatmail me with your proper email but I am out the country for a couple of weeks Nick
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on Locost builders here
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The virtical pannel is only held in by the force of the silicone bead - improbably strong though that may be. You can drill the rivets but it is cutting off your foot to change your shoe 😬 Nick
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Mine was misbehaving - permenantly on so I removed the bulb Not part of the test I think I may have an old wipac light unit, or two knocking around if you need . Nick
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Southern Carbs and Injection wimbledon does Weber Alpha stuff
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Ive found its more of a slap followed by " I told you to fill up that last place....." Nick
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Dave "Modern" ❗ Crossflow 🤔 get another cup of coffee 😬 ps make sure the exhaust gasgets are the size of your ports - std ones are std size - not tried the copper ones but being for a uprated engine you would hope they were of a uprated size Nick
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As an aside to this I have removed my heater. Previously the engine was very well behaved and would loose little coolant. It then suddenly started loosing coolant. but only a few hundred mm - even after 20 mins of 0-10 mph on hottest day. I think there was an air gap in the heater that acted as a spring to avoid coolant loss. I now have it set up with the expantion tank on the bulkhead which I hope is high enough to self bleed the system if there are any airlocks. Nick
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Isnt that a Topeak Panorama with a different badge. I had a look to check and the topeak panorama has had a facelift, looks quite good N
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If they are still going Ben 😬
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If Dicky does not want them I need some 1144's Nick
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If you think that it has really reached a stage where you think that no-one will ever be able to unscrew the bolts then you can grind them off. once they are off you can take off the head to get the bolts drilled out. This should not be reason to trash a head. I have a vulcan head and would take the removed head there to ask for a quote to remove the bolts and fit unleaded inserts - he may take the head in exchange, you may decide to have larger valves etc. - I am not sure what he has on the shelf. Nick Nick
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That reminds me The top outside bolts are accessible from the back for WD40 etc. Nick
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I know you said everything, but I would first by a socket Hex key and a breaker bar and have a go after a couple days soaking in lubricant. Something will move - it will either come out or break If it breaks you will have to drill out the stud and re-tap, That is what JWhiting did to mine several years ago. There is room i think to drill out the studs in situ, but I would not trust myself to get it drilled straight The only downside is that if you break the bolt at home you have an undrivable car but I would suggest you would get a better job taking the head off and getting it to a machine/engine shop One you have the head in the machine shop there is no better time to get other things done. Nick
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I think I could just about stretch to that I would be tommorow or wednesday evening - any times to avoid? Nick
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Headrest for Arch FIA bar Unopened still in Caterham plastic bags (Dusty ❗) £15 + Delivery - can be delivered to Wotton Hatch on Thursday. Nick here
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But Peter If he was using a high ratio rocker on a big lift cam (designed for normal rockers) Would he not have hit the valves on the piston before he got into rocker angle issues. 🤔 Although as I wrote that I thought that if you had normal position steel posts and high ratio rockers (or vice vera) you would not only have oil ways that may not line up but the rocker tip would not be centrally above the vavle stem Nick
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And revs surely 🤔 Nick
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If you do everything yourself (strip -reassemble etc) then I think Vulcan charge about £20 per valve +vat (only 4 need doing) Calll it £30 as that was a while ago. If I keep the x-flow then I may get it done but at the moment I am OK with adding fuel additive. Nick ps saw an alloy x-flow head in Vulcans last time I was there
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I did have an idea based on the use of a coolant temperature sensor not a combustion temp sensor. Scenario1 Car standing unused in cold weather with coolant at 10DegC Start it running with appropriate enrichment and after several minutes running the water temperature reaches 30DegC. Scenario 2 Car standing unused in hot weather with coolant at 30DegC Car starts with same amount of fuel enrichment defined above BUT the combustion chamber/inlet tract is stone cold = lots of fuel dropout and little evaporation of dropped out fuel and different combustion charicteristics. Just a thought Nick
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Maths looks correct if 13inch wheel is 330mm diameter 1mm difference is Tan-1 (1/330) = 0.17deg or (0.17*60) = 10.4 minutes for one wheel.
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Alloy wheel cleaner is a very diluted alternative. With some rubber gloves and fine wire wool you will make an improvement. But nothing comes close to a coarse mop and cutting paste in a bench grinder
