Big Brother

Nice bit of kit! My problem was that in September I fitted dual batteries and towards the end of the install it started getting dark. I finished off the big stuff and just had to wire in the trigger supply for the relay. As it was now properly dark, I cheated and wired this to the +ve (I needed both batteries for the following day) I then forgot and left the split charge relay wired up like this until....yesterday Anyway, it looks like lots of short journeys, combined with the drain from the relay and the immobiliser combined, was enough to (over a period of time) flatten the batteries. It's all wired up as it should be now so I'll have to see how it goes. Checking it over with a multimeter, it all looks good

The split charge is on a Landrover Defender tht is being kitted out for "overlanding" 😬 The main battery is for starting. The secondary one is for winching and to to run auxillary equipment/lighting and an inverter.

Cheers for the offer Brian. Been working on it today and the culprit looks to be a split charge relay that was (temporarily) installed so that it was permanently activated. It wasn't drawing loads of current but had been "on" since November! Lots of short trips and cold starts combined with the relay seems to have taken it's toll on the batteries. They're now charged up and seem to have recovered OK. The split charge relay is also now wired to only connect the batteries when the engine is running.

Am I right in thinking that to trace a current drain, I need to place an ammeter between the -ve cable and the -ve post on the battery. Then pull fuses and disconnect things until I see a change on the meter? Also, what current drain should I be seeing for an immobiliser?

Starter motor! Mine had exacly the same symptoms. A new starter motor sorted it out.

and on a similar note - 26 Steve According to statistics, one in every seven dwarves is grumpy Edited by - Se7en-Up! on 31 Dec 2009 08:21:48

21 with the bonnet up Steve According to statistics, one in every seven dwarves is grumpy

In his Defender 90, driving past the reporter who was telling everyone how blocked the roads were

Are all of your fuses intact? Especially the ECU one?

**** May be in the boot in Sigma powered cars**** Switch looks like this Edited by - Se7en-Up! on 14 Dec 2009 14:02:54

Possibly the cut off switch has operated. (the "I'd hit a bump" is a clue) Take a look on the scuttle for a small black "thing" with two wires going into the bottom and a round rubber cap on the top. This has a diameter of around 20mm. Press the top and if you hear/feel a click, then you've just reset it and the car should start.

No - Royal Mail Special Delivery ship air rifles.

Andyh - you're not the first person to say that to me 😬 Bob, 😬 I tried Darrens HH out at Hendon. I've now got to decide whether to get a custom one made up or just not bother. With the screen back on, the car already feels too civilised Steve According to statistics, one in every seven dwarves is grumpy Edited by - Se7en-Up! on 18 Aug 2009 08:46:14

My 7's a short cockpit chassis and has a vertical FIA bar (no petty bar required). This means that (as I now know after trying a hood for size) the standard hood is around 2 inches too short. Looks like I'll need a made to measure one! Steve According to statistics, one in every seven dwarves is grumpy

I can't see why not. It does exactly the same thing as the Weber and TBH, the Emerald is overkill if your running carbs and don't need all the injection stuff. The MegaJolt Lite is cheap, easy to make, easy to program and very reliable Steve According to statistics, one in every seven dwarves is grumpy