Nick Green

The sump pan drain plug came in when the gold pump did, as the fitting of the scavenge pipe at the bottom is somewhat more involved than with the earlier scavenge pump. Sounds like you need to drain the bell housing tank ? You don't explicitly say you have done that. Blue plate on the bottom ? Edited by - Nick Green on 17 Oct 2013 09:46:15 Edited by - Nick Green on 17 Oct 2013 09:46:40

There was a "Clubsport" exhaust, which had a side silencer then turned under the tank, going through two side-by-side cylinder silencers (covered to sort-of look like one) with a U-bend at the far end, exitting with a tail pipe back on the side-silencer side of the car. This was for lower-powered K 7s I have seen the same style of exhaust on an R500 7, with bigger bore piping. Or are you thinking of a different version again ? Might be worth emailing or calling Cheeseman Exhausts directly ?

ISTR my car's rear arb moves side to side. If you want to be sure, check with Caterham, but T[probably]ADTS

I needed some new O rings for one point on my dry sump tower setup on my K. I googled for O-ring suppliers and found one where you could specify diameter and thickness of O ring. And the material it was made of. Can't remember their name right now, but not hard to find. Would need to look through receipts on home computer to find it.

NGK BCPR7ES if my memory serves me correctly

Very quick. The oil will come out fast.

NoLimits, No worries You are probably right. I am going softer with my springs too. Maybe it is a stage you do have to go through, so you know what different setups feel like and can then decide what you really want. Re-reading Neil's original post, adjustable dampers might (unfortunately for his wallet) actually be the next step anyway. The standard springs are quite soft to start with. It depends where Neil is experiencing the lack of control he talks of. Is it cornering ? Is it bumps at speed ? ARBs will have some effect on the first, but not the 2nd. Has any of this helped at all Neil ??

You pays your money, you takes your choice Should have said that I was taking of Ks when mentioning spring rates above. I wouldn't argue with what NoLimits is saying wrt springs and dampers, and no doubt what NoLimits sells are very good. But Neil is asking about what he can do cheaply. Just saying you can play quite cheaply with springs. Rode happily enough on stiffer springs on the std dampers for several years, as did others. Edited by - Nick Green on 4 Jun 2013 15:39:15

Quoting Steve Newman: SNAP - I win 😬 I got distracted... ☹️

Neil, the relative lack of responses to your post could be due to POBC lack of experience with bike-engined-7s... The standard springs/dampers are designed for K-engined cars, not light bike-engined ones. As a contrast to Richard's post, many people I know have started messing with the standard suspension by fitting stiffer springs to the standard dampers. It certainly isn't undriveable but many people go to adjustable hardness dampers in the end as it is something else to fiddle with, as much as anything. Typical upgrades on the front are 200 or 225 or 250 lb fronts, and 140 or 150 rears. Much above that on the back gets a bit uncomfortable unless you fit helper springs (eg, 2" 450lb helpers). So all the above could be different for a bike-engined car. A set of Faulkner springs costs about £100, so you can have a play relatively cheaply. HTH.

Caterham do 4 different diameter bars, usually denoted by the colour of the bushes required to fit them in the standard bush holders. All 4 available from Caterham

Might be worth checking the wiper motor is properly bolted down. I had odd wiper problems years ago, and it was due to the motor not being properly bolted to its mounting plate, and so not gripping the earth cable connector properly.

Ok Jack. I'll see what I can do this evening. I'll send them via BM. Unless you take up Mark's offer Edited by - Nick Green on 17 May 2013 13:54:31

I'm west of Swindon, in Malmesbury if you get no better offer. Or let me know what angles you are after and I can send them to you ?

Photos of the day here including a section just of the L7 classes, by clicking on the picture

Ian's boiling water method sounds better than mine, FWIW. I didn't need to go quite so extreme with the bend as Ian. Also, because I use mine with the SBFS halfscreens, the deflectors rest against the front of those, so I haven't needed to add extra feet. Personally I found the deflectors unusable without halfscreens. Each to his own though. It would be boring if we were all the same.

Nigel, The deflector has a bend near the bottom. I lay it in my oven on a shelf, and gently warmed it up (don't go in at 200C!) until it started to be just a *little* flexible. I then just carried on bending the existing bend, gently, to the required angle. The "right" temperature is simply what allows you to bend it. It could go totally soft and make a mess of the oven if you go too hot. Took all the hinge stuff off so it was just perspex. With SFBS sidescreens and these deflectors suitably adapted, I can drive the car with a baseball cap on at 70(+) mph. I dare say I could arrange a picture but not till tonight at the earliest.

I agree with Ian B. I bought some 2nd hand and pretty much did what he suggests. I bent the bottoms to almost right angles. I found I still needed half screens to stop the buffeting at the shoulder/head area. If you are not sure you need half screens too, try driving without any sidescreens and put your (left) hand by your right shoulder while driving and feel the difference. Well, I did anyway.

I have the same Caterham-supplied manifold. The long 4 branch that comes out of the side of the car is their "race" system for Ks of that spec/age, as opposed to the short manifold where a single pipe comes out of the car and joins onto the catted silencer. Talking of which... I bought one of those 2nd hand, and had it tweaked to fit on my long 4-branch manifold. The tail pipe is cut off at the silencer, that (inner) end of the tail pipe is then shortened and the tailpipe welded back on. This keeps the tailpipe bracket. The long front pipe is cut off and a short piece of tube welded on to the silencer, suitably swaged to fit on the collector. The front bracket on the catted silencer is also cut off. Does the job. You are welcome to borrow it if you can collect from me. Edited by - Nick Green on 19 Apr 2013 12:12:19 Edited by - Nick Green on 19 Apr 2013 14:09:57

A 96 chassis will be imperial, made by Arch. Components on the engine, gearbox (maybe only the level/drain plugs?) and the diff will be metric. Need a 10 mm allen key for the plugs, anyway. As for early/late geometry, AIUI, the differentiator is whether the front damper top mount is the same as the upper wishbone mount. If yes = old, If no = new. Edited by - Nick Green on 8 Jan 2013 10:35:02

Without checking at home, ABT10 rings a bell for the front wishbone

Aren't most of the L7C speed series folks running 15" ? The series regs allow it, I believe. Was that primarily to allow Stunners ? Would any of the participants go (back) to 13" ? Wondering if I should change from 13" for sprinting...

I have the arrangement as in the first post picture. The valve is the one that goes in the line from the tank to the charcoal cannister, if you had one fitted Never had any problems with pressurisation or fuel spillage. But then have the standard metro filler cap, if that makes any difference. Could the tube be bent too tightly and stopping venting ? Edited by - Nick Green on 14 Nov 2012 16:34:26

All, thanks for your efforts; I've received some pics from Adrian and Grubbster, and I'm happier about what I am doing now, ta. Cheers all! Nick Edited by - Nick Green on 27 Nov 2011 18:17:07

ric355, Thanks for posting. The angle/view in the photo is perfect, but unfortunately it is a gold pump pic I am after. The purple pump has a slimmer tube at the rear, which is bent to a handy angle. The gold rear tube is fatter and sticks straight out. Not so helpful. I just want to be sure of what I am doing, if possible, before shortening pipes to fit things together, which is what is looking likely at the moment... Thinking about it, gold pumps tend to be on SLRs more and they have large sausage filters blocking the view. Which is perhaps why pics are trickier to come by! Thanks for help so far. Nick.