Nick Green

The sticking throttle with the plastic throttle body can sometimes be alleviated by turning the jubilee clip holding the filter, by 90 degrees and then reclamping, to change the shape of the hole.

Chees(e?)man Products (or Exhausts) Edited by - Nick Green on 15 Oct 2007 10:35:01

Dick, Shortening of exhaust: Yes, it was because otherwise the silencer would sit too far forward to get in behind the collector. You'd need to see the catted silencer in its original installation to SWIM. Who did it: I got an outfit near me called Longlife Exhausts to do it.They specialise in fitting bespoke stainless exhaust systems on to cars. I'm sure you could find a welder/exhaust outfit near you, who could do a similar job... A hunt through Yellow Pages or Yell.com and a few phone calls should get you somewhere... Or local garages ? Nick.

Dick and Richard, YHM.

Dick, If you can get hold of a standard 5" catalysed can, the one that attaches to the short manifold that fits entirely in the engine bay, it is possible to make it fit the Caterham external 4-1 collector, by cutting off the tail pipe at the silencer, shortening it and welding back on, then hacking off the front pipe where it joins the catalyst cone, and welding on a short piece of pipe to join to the collector. The front mount on the silencer will also need to be removed. I can send you pics of my set up, if you like ? Edited by - Nick Green on 12 Oct 2007 14:44:00

Martin, 1. The exhaust gas compostion. 2. Don't know, but probably best to get a boss welded into the collector you replace the cat with, so that the sensor continues to be part of the system. 3. Cover up the ends ? Perhaps others have a better idea. 4. Do Caterham not flog a replacement pipe, like they do (did ?) for the SLR exhaust ? 5. Probably, but not massive. 6. Polishing: not my thing, if I can avoid it. 7. Legally, it is illegal* to run without the cat on the road, if your car has been SVAed with one. I know of many people who do it though. [Might lead to a discussion on Construction and Use Regs and insurance validity...] Mechanically, no problems that I've heard of. * Though what is actually illegal ? Simply not having the cat fitted, or the car's inability to pass the MOT ? Don't know. N. Edited by - Nick Green on 3 Oct 2007 16:27:51

Steve, Me again Don't know what the manual tensioner looks like, but the automatic one has a black wheel that the belt touches. It also has a spur of metal with a notch in the end, sticking out to one side. This has to be aligned to a wire which also sticks out the side and is attached to the tensioner. The spur and wire are behind the cambelt. And you have to take the cambelt cover off to see it. N.

Try looking for leaks around the filler neck. You might have to remove a piece of ally in the boot to see this. The fuel could be pooling on top of the tank, under the boot floor...

Maybe zak's location info has something to do with it ?

Mine's still going strong and passing noise tests after 4 or 5 years...

What's wrong with the Caterham Vx race can ? 6" silencer and about 150 quid, albeit 4 years ago. Should fit straight onto that 4-1 manifold. Does on mine.

It was on my car (99, with underslung A frame mounts)

So about 20odd cms from seat back (more or less) to hole.... Less than I was expecting, TBH! I imagine the belt fitment would be rather snug. More like 35cms on mine! But I don't like to boast But yes, in answer to your question, that is accurate enough for me. Thanks Steve.

Steve, The top surface is what I am after. I appreciate that there is a curve where the back starts to become the seat. Ball park, is what I am after. So direct line from back of the crutch strap hole, to where the tape measure contacts the back, sort of parallel with the 🙆🏻 part of the seat, would be fine. Does that help ? Nick.

Out of curiosity, I am after the dimension from the bottom of the seat back, to the rear-most part of the crutch strap hole, please. I am not convinced about the position of the crutch strap hole on my DIY moulded seat base, so am after what might be called a typical example. Thanks very much. Nick.

Araldite then. The good old traditional 12-24 hour curing stuff, not the Rapid variety. Or other solutions suggested in here

I've got a green-cased rack on a widetrack, new in 1999. It is less than two turns lock to lock. ISTR the 8% being 1.9 turns and the 22% being 1.7 turns ? Or did I just get lucky with a 22% rack ?

Cheers For sealing the gap on mine, I used araldite. There were mixed answers when I asked on BC if that was sensible. So far so good, anyway. New filler necks are about 50 quid. It should be perfectly ok to remove it and take it to a welding person. BTW, the tube that was leaking on mine was neither of the ones Keith was mentioning, but another small tube, that was connected by a rubber hose to the top of the fuel tank (as mentioned by RobW above). Anyone any ideas what use it serves ? It has been deleted from later cars, so perhaps that answers my question. Couldn't get an answer out of Caterham when I asked if I could block it off, anyway. Car is a 99 K-engined job. Edited by - Nick Green on 16 Jul 2007 10:34:20

Ammo, Any idea how the map was "softened" for wet use ? Nick.

I know someone who recently fitted brand new 14" front wing stays and they had tighter clearance to the tyres than my '99 variety. Might it be the same for the race stays ?

Or cracks where any metal pipes attach to the main filler neck

Hi Darren, I wouldn't claim any great knowledge in this area, but as a Coldstream user myself, I have noticed it has effectively disappeared. Unipart used to sell a "4 year" coolant that was the same stuff. Given your situation, where you have a cleaned out coolant system, I'd go Xstream/pink coolant. Pretty much all production cars seem to use it now, as have Caterham for a few years. Supplies will be much easier to get. I'll have to do thorough flushings at my next coolant change in order to do the same. Nick.

Neil, YHM, Nick

Myles, I had this a couple of weeks ago on my Brise starter, same as yours judging from the pics. The staying in after releasing ignition key/starter button bit. New solenoid required. Holding coil in the solenoid was malfunctioning, apparently. When I was getting the holding in, I removed the starter from the car, and connected it to the battery, the live lead to the "ignition" terminal on the solenoid. The solenoid would throw the pinion which would then slowly spin, despite no power being applied to the battery terminal on the solenoid. All seemed to work fine the next day... Was also advised the plunger should be dry, not greased. Edited by - Nick Green on 24 May 2007 10:47:10 Edited by - Nick Green on 24 May 2007 10:49:58

I checked my latest araldited joint last night, and the glue is hard, not soft. Also checked the packaging for the glue, and "Rapid" does not appear anywhere on it. Possibly why I've had no problems to date. Checked the 7 year old blob of araldite on the outside of the bell housing. Still very much there and it is sealing. I'll see how things go, rather than fork out for a new filler neck immediately. Thanks for the info/experiences everyone. I'll keep an eye out for JB Weld type stuff too. Can't have too many of these things.