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Nick Green

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Everything posted by Nick Green

  1. Anthony, the 21:39 pic is getting there. Useful for the oil pipe line, though, ta! Racing, really after pic showing proximity/lie of pipes where the tube from the sump to the pump runs very adjacent to the pipe coming out of the thermostat housing which then heads off round the back of the engine. Anthony is doing a valiant job going through his archive... (Anthony, yeah it looked like above to me too ;) Thanks for trying though! Let's see what turns up in the next day or so; it isn't desperate. Cheers!) Edited by - Nick Green on 26 Nov 2011 21:54:08 Edited by - Nick Green on 26 Nov 2011 21:57:46
  2. Thanks for the pics Anthony. Unfortunately, to be a pain, the view I want is the other end It is the coolant pipe under the J-shaped pipe, where it runs against the oil pipe coming up from the sump... N.
  3. Please could someone who has a K with a gold DS pump fitted, send me a photo of the area at the rear of the pump, where the coolant pipe and oil pipe run very close together. Sending via blat mail is fine. Thanks in advance! Nick
  4. Nick Green

    C7 SFO

    Green, from the back at least, on Stow-Burford road around 6:30pm
  5. Orange, R400 SV Could be R4000SV, Malmesbury, Sat 23 April ?
  6. I've had this mod done to my tonneau too. Does save a lot of faff. The one or two times it has got wet since, more water has run through the hole that the petty strut is meant to go through. Don't worry about it. N.
  7. Excuse hijack please. If there is a heater to be involved in the circuit, has anyone plumbed one in ? Cheers, Nick.
  8. Hi Mark. I had to change mine about 3.5 years ago. The new one looked just like the old one which had cracked just above where the CRB fits. It was 6 years old then (1999). Looked no different to me either. I had some extra little plates welded on the rear of the arm, on the triangles above and below the CRB mounting. So far so good. Nick
  9. Hmmm... Trouble is each time I get it wrong, I need to reboot the computer before I can get it to run again. Which is a bit of a pain. Plus it doesn't seem to show up in Add/Remove Programs which is very odd. Unless I need to put my glasses on... Thanks for the detail Ray. You posted while I was whinging. Edited by - Nick Green on 19 Jan 2009 21:26:39
  10. Just wondering if anyone can help me on this: If I am using a USB-Serial converter to talk to the Emerald, which number COM port should I select ? Is it a standard thing or a matter of testing them all ? Ta.
  11. GM, Bit surprised it is not already there, as my 1999 car had it as standard. If fitted, it should be on the bulkhead under the dash, by the wiper motor on the left-hand side. If not fitted, and if you are lucky, there is a connector in about the same place, which if you pull it apart, features 4 pins in one side and 5 in the other. This is where the intermittent wipe box fits into the wiper circuitry. If you haven't got that connector, or the box, then it gets a little more fiddly, but nothing insurmountable, I'm sure. N.
  12. For the half a dozen of us still using windscreens, I've just done this fix as outlined by Rich above. Changing the oscillator crystal was all that was required. Only difference over Rich's was that the crystal on my circuit board was a 3.6864 MHz job, rather than 4.xxx MHz. I did check the chip spec online, and it said it was a 4 Meg chip, so perhaps a 4 Meg crystal would have been fine. Anyway, all working again now. Thanks for your offline help Rich N.
  13. Fine for track days; not for sprints/racing. MSA Blue book is where the info originates. Don't know if it lives online anywhere.
  14. 1 Set of front and rear Bilstein M0 (road going) dampers, from a 1999 widetrack Caterham with the underslung DD tube rear damper mounts. They have covered approximately 24,000 miles. Fitted with Juno (now Freestyle) rear springs, believed to be 150lb/in, and 250 lb/in green Vx race springs on the front. The front dampers have had the widetrack spacers and flat end caps removed and replaced with the same conical caps as the rear dampers, to increase the front damper travel before hitting the bump stops, at the expense of slightly reduced front suspension droop. If you wanted to return the front dampers to original configuration, I still have the flat end caps, but only one spacer. These dampers also have the adjustable spring seats fitted to them. Pictures are available on request via Blatmail. £100 plus p&p, say £110 the lot ? - ** NOW SOLD ** Also available, set of barely used original road springs (150 fronts and progressive rears) and a pair of 200lb/in front springs in black. £10 a spring. - ** THESE STILL AVAILABLE ** Edited by - nick green on 16 Jul 2008 10:38:06
  15. I knocked up an ally plate, mounted it to the same points as the MEMS, and then mounted the Emerald to the plate. Kept loom positions unaltered, but added a few grammes.
  16. The lambda figure should oscillate between those two values when in a steady state. As it was explained to me at an MOT test one time, when the test equipment is doing the emissions test, it has something like a 30s window in which to do it. The first 20s is allowed for getting up to fast idle speed and then holding it steady and allowing things to settle down. The test reading is then taken at some random point during the last 10s. So if the reading had beenn taken 2s earlier or later, it could have been quite different. So the fact you had a "high" reading is really neither here nor there. If my maths is correct, that figure you had indicates tending to leanness, but as I previously said, it should have richened up moments later. Edited by - Nick Green on 18 Jun 2008 13:54:36
  17. Markus, You could take one of these standard catted silencers and modify the tail pipe and front tube to fit on your current 4-1 external collector manifold. I have done it to mine. I can send you pics if you like ? Nick. Edited by - Nick Green on 14 May 2008 10:18:48
  18. The 8% rack is officially 1.9 turns. I've got widetrack on a 8% and it is indeed just under 2 turns, lock to lock. Edited by - Nick Green on 20 Mar 2008 13:26:45
  19. There is a Philips X-treme Power now. 80% more light allegedly. And an Osram with allegedly 90% extra. Try www.powerbulbs.com
  20. Front spring diameter can be either 1.9 or 2.25 inches ID. As you have the adjustable seats, you should be able to flip the rings over to get the different IDs. Depends what top seats you are using currently, of course... As for length, 6 or 7 inches sounds about right ? ISTR a regular prominent poster on here going to 4" springs on the front, to save a bit more weight.
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