sevenmad

Glad you liked the article, my first submission to LF

I too fitted my own starter button during my 125 build. Button came from Farnell, its made by ITW code 76-9410/439088R, and is exactly the same as that fitted by cc but half the price (£9 against £18).Link here Wiring is ready behind the dash with connectors already on, sitting just to left of steering column. Two wires, one red, the other white and red. Took 10 minutes to drill the dash and connect it up ! As for QR go for the Rapfix system, better than the CC offering, written up in last months Low Flying . Edited by - sevenmad on 3 Nov 2010 21:37:02

This had been a repetitive problem. Apparently the paint supplied by cc is part of a 2 pack paint and needs something else to harden. Had this problem on my 7 as well. Check this thread:here

You were going towards Folkestone, wearing a flat cap! Waved from the wife's tin top but you didn't see me.

Alternatively I can give youthe name of a surgical colleague who might be able to help

I can confirm than my Rapfix top column was a perfect fit!

The Rapfix system is far better than the caterham in my view (search for threads of seveners whose caterham systems become sloppy or stick). Seventips can supply it with an upper column which is compatible with the lower column. Both systems use the momo 3 point system mount so are compatible. I usually remove the wheel when leaving the car unattended for a long period, eg at work, and I suspect its the best method of preventing a seven disappearing *eek*. I wouldn't hesitate to fit the Rapfix. As to the spare bits why not post them on blatchat to sell them?

Been dragged into new Jack Wills store by my teenage daughters, saw you come by.

My recently built Roadsport 125 has now got 2000 miles on the clock. It has now developed a small leak from the gearbox, a few drops on the garage floor overnight after its been driven. I've put the car up on stands and had a good look underneath and the oil is dripping from just in front of the entry of the prop shaft, and I presume its coming from the rear seal. However having cleaned the area up and waited overnight there is no leak. I presume this is because the leak only appears when oil is pushed higher in the gearbox when the car is driven. There is no speedo sender and the leak is definitely not from the blanked of plug. Should I be worried if the leak is small and just top up occasionally or does the seal need replacing. I presume this would involve removing the diff to get the prop shaft out? Something I rather not do as I only put it in 8 months ago

If its a recent seven with the two point headlight bracket you need to loosen the grub screw on the top strut at the side of the engine bay and tap it inwards with a rubber mallet, you will be suprised how far it can go! Having done this I got clearance even with narrow track suspension.

One of the green and yellows was me. The other belonged to Bruce, the pilot of the intrepid soapbox.

Are you sure the immobiliser if turning off. The red led should stop flashing and go out.On my new build the arial around the key was in a figure 8 and had to be made intoa loop.

There seems to be lots of experience with tuning the K series and Duratec, but little seems to be written about tuning the sigma, and Caterham stop at 150 bhp. However some of the Ford tuning specialists seem to be having a go. A friend with a racing Puma mentioned that Shawpeed offer up to 200 bhp from the 1.6 unit! here Anybody know of any other tuners offering anything similar?

I used this one from Maplin, comes with chassis mounting plate (if needed) and is waterproof, is marked for marine use. here

The sigma loom is already wired for a power socket. The fuse is "O" , that is the 15th from the right in the fuse panel, should be 10 amp. The wire from the fuse is purple and red and runs from under the dash along the transmission tunnel to a connector just above the diff. Caterham have fitted some sockets between the drivers seats, hence the position of the connector. I didn't like this position so traced the purple/red wire from the fuse to just above the entry to the transmission tunnel, and cut it at his point (after having removed the fuse!). I then pull the wire back from the fuse box end and redirected it a 12v waterproof socket I had positioned at the left hand end of the dash. I used a nearby earth point for the -ve. This gives a permenantly on 12v socket, and uses the intended wiring in the loom.

Saw you today passing the Hare, was in my wife's CRV and waved, not sure you saw.

I had my 125 on the road for about 4 months. I'm just beginning to think more power would be good, and I may well upgrade to 150. My car is an S3. If I had the heavier SV I'm sure I'd want more power! I'd go for the 175. As others have already said, this gives an easier upgrade path if you want to go even further. it's better to stomp up more now than even more later.

Its £195, got mine about a month ago, far better than caterham QR.

I would second Richard Egger. Really good at insuring my Roadsport during build phase and didn't seem phased by delays in passing IVA.

I have to agree. Caterham paint is by far the most easily chipped on any car I've owned. Is it applied differently or does paint stick less well to Ali/Grp ?

Thanks, I'll take the flap out when I fit the cap

I'm thinking of replacing my current Rover filler cap with the caterham aero cap, but there seem to be a lot of old threads suggesting that it make getting the petrol nozel in difficult. Anyone out there with a sigma Roadsport with the aero cap, do you have any difficulties filling up, is this still a problem or have caterham resolved the issue.

On my 125 build I just left the plug that was already in the gearbox. Its much better than the supplied one and 1500 miles later has caused no problems

How much for the wheel alone, I don't need the boss or screws?

sevenspeed do a small piece of preshaped armoufend for this area.here