sevenmad
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Everything posted by sevenmad
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I've been moaning for the last 18 months about my noisy Quaife sierra diff. Its been whining away since the car was built, with a constant annoying high pitched whine between 35 and 60 mph (TADTS according to cc). The gearbox tail house seal was also weeping, so I decided to bite the bullet and take the prop and diff out to replace the seal. I was toying with getting the BMW diff, but in a last effort with the ford I decided to take it to R&R. Phil looked at it and said the bearings had been over tightened and were worn, and he'd replace them and set the diff up correctly. Result: whine improved by 70%, and now only between 45 and 60 *thumbup* The joy of being able to hear the engine, many thanks to R&R.
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Another for A021s. Much better grip than ZV3s in the dry and not bad in the wet too. Wear rate is also better than other more dry orientated road legal track tyres. Good all rounders.
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I have just done the same on my 2010 Roadsport, but shortening your procedure by only removing the passenger side half shaft, disc and hub. This means not having to worry about the speed sensor ring on the driver's side. I also didn't disconnect the caliper from its pipe, just gently tied it out of the way, hanging it from the rear suspension spring. The drivers side is left intact and the half shaft on that side removed from the diff by gently rotating and skewing the diff as it is lowered on the jack. This effectively reduces the amount of disassembly and reassembly by about a third.
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I really suffered trying to get the seal out with a screwdriver, so bought a seal puller from ebay for £8. With the puller it took 15 secs, with no risk to the bore. Highly recommended
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Thanks, I take it no sealant is required beteen the seal and its housing?
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Its a 5 speed. Obviously access is limited in the tunnel and I'm worried about damaging the seat for the new seal. Ever tried one of those hooked seal puller? seen some one ebay and wonder if they work.here
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Today I finally got round to removing the diff from my Roadsport to send it of to R&R to have an LSD fitted. At the same time I thought I'd replace the oil seal on the back of the gearbox (for the prop) which has consistently leaked since the build 18 months ago. Having got the prop out my question is how to get the old seal out? Its exceedingly tight and leavering with a flat blade screw driver won't budge it. Is there a technique? What am I doing wrong? I presume the new seal is just drifted in with a hammer.
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Also look at the threads on blatchat about cc touch up paint. Unless they've changed the paint it requires a hardener, otherwise it never goes off. I speak from experience
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That's what I presume too. To go from 125 to 150 you need: new cams with uprated springs quad throttle bodies and airfilter throttle potentiometer modine oil cooler and assoc pipework oil catch tank uprated injectors ecu remap manual cam belt tensioner (to cope with higher rev limit) Hence the £2600 for the upgrade! If an upgrade to 140 was part way then the upgrades might be staggered, as long as the parts were the same. I'm also interested as the cc throttle bodies and injectors are a major expense, and I've managed to get these in hardly used condition second hand! So I'm already half way.
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I notice that cc have released a 140bhp version of the sigma engine in the new supersport. Does anyone know more about the spec of the engine? Does it have uprated cams, throttle bodies, exhaust and how does it differ from the 150bhp (except by missing out on 10 bhp).
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Also check that the filler plug is done up! My first leak was as you describe and despite thinking I done the filler plug up tightly during the build, I found it was virtually out at 1000 miles.
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Passed you in the tin top coming the other way, I presume you were heading for a channel crossing? -
My Roadsport 125 has exactly the same leak, first noticed at 6 months, but now with 4000 miles on the clock it remains the same. I too would like to know how the seal can be replaced without removing either the engine or the diff.
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We'll again some sunny day Keep blatting and we can't fail to pass each other!
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Hi Eccles, That's the kind of info I'm after. I'm not at all sure what can be saved from the sigma installation. However judging by the few responses (thanks for those who've replied) it would appear that no one has attempted the sigma to duratec option ☹️
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Has anyone with a sigma swapped up to a duratec? I''ve currently got 125 bhp but want more, and the 150 upgrade is £2.6K. I'm just wondering if it would be better to leapfrog to 175. What would need swapping in addition to the engine and what would the cost be? I know it might be cheaper to sell the car and buy another, but I'm rather attached to my self built s3, and want to consider all the options (but no I don't want a K series!).
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My recent build manual says 14Nm for the two bolts. Doesn't specify for the grub screw, "tighten to liminate any play in the stearing". Matthew
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Did you mean to put this in the Tech section, not for sale?
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nice to meet a fellow sevener with a liking for the sea
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Cheers for that Tweeky, couldn't find them
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I've already noticed the hoses on my 1 year old sigma roadsport are deteriorating. CC don't seem to currently do any silicon replacements for this engine. Anyone managed to source any from another supplier?
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I have the 3 countersunk black screws which came with my unused momo boss (now using rapfix quick release, definitely correct for momo wheel. Mail me if you want them.
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just wear earplugs, problem sorted! Can still hear the engine roar, but none of the rattles
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Mine's a Roadsport, Green and yellow but without the stripe!
