LesG

It did make me smile (wryly) yesterday, queueing in the paddock at Barbon hillclimb, and watching as a scrutineer wandered around with the Blue Book open at List. 1b page, checking our tyres were on the list.

I have a set (front and rear) sat in the garage, there are no platforms with them, the fronts are MO versions, and there are adjustment grooves in the bodies for height. They have unknown mileage, but they are fairly clean and definitely no leaks, £50 + carriage?

Call Chris at the 7 Workshop, he will be able to sort you one I'm sure

Hi, I have the clear Perspex version fitted to my car, and can easily swap to my full screen in about 15 minutes. Not that I have wanted to much though..........

MatF; you must have been lucky lol! The diff I had came with a little alloy tag hanging off it with '3.92' stamped into it. Understandably, I took this to be the final drive ratio. Unfortunately, it wasn't, and my XFlow engine (as it was at the time) struggled to pull top gear. Jacking the car up and counting the driveshaft rotations to the propshaft rotations confirmed 3.65 ratio. I can laugh about it now........

My car had the early driveshafts (shortened Sierra) fitted, with standard cv joints on both ends. All I did was undo a circlip, slide off cv joint, then slide on new Lobro and refit circlip, simples! Then bolted to output flanges on the diff. This diff I use is a 7 inch version, out of a 4x4 Sierra, and came amongst all the boxes of bits when I bought my car. I checked it out, measured up, sorted the Lobro joints (there are two types, you need the smaller diameter, easily bought from any factor), and just fire it in. I've been hillclimbing/sprinting with this in for about 5 years now, no issues. You can have the viscous coupling overhauled and updated to 180lb/ft rather than the standard 150 lb/ft for around £200 ( more suited to our lightweight cars), but I've not felt the need to. The only other thing I did was to swap the crow wheel and pinion (3.92) from my standard diff to keep the lower gearing. All the Sierra LSD's came with 3.65 final drive.

Technically you could argue that Caterham did this when they started using the Sierra 7 inch diff in the S3. I can tell you from my experience of installing a Sierra 4x4 viscous LSD into my S3, that the CV joints are a straight swap for the Lobro bolt-on drive joints.

I've used Evans in my K engine with classic black silicon hoses, no heater, and that other Devil's product; a plastic-capped CC radiator for 2 years now. All is well. But what works for me may not work for others. All the best.

Can I ask if you are considering swapping the Sierra calipers for alloy VW Golf versions?

Well, as this thread has been resurrected, it's probably time I gave you my promised results after a year of use in my K. There's not much to report tbh! I have sprinted and hillclimbed, and blatted on public roads. I don't have a manual fan override switch, and am using the standard CC plastic-ended radiator (much lightness), along with a prrt conversion. I can honestly say I've had no problems from the cooling system at all, no leaks, and the coolant looks the same as when I first put it in.

If anyone has a pair of RED bushes spare, for the standard track S3 front antirollbar, please get in touch. Cheers, Les.

I used SFS for my K engine, bought in the classic black version, have been perfect. Les

Yep, so I've 'investigated' with the drill, and can confirm I don't have the threaded boss on the driver's side. So my plan is to use two short 7/16 bolts to secure the passenger side, and just use the largest diameter bolt straight through for the driver's side.

As someone who sells tools for a living, I can tell you that 15, 16, and 18mm are used a lot on European vehicles. ECR; the reason your set is 'missing' those sizes will be down purely to cost, and specifically to appear better value/ more competitively priced than other makes for similar money. The moral of the story is to check what is included in the set before you commit to click the buy button........

Hi Chris, my chassis is 1987, so probs not got the boss then, it'll get a bolt right through if so. Can't wait to get the drill out lol

Thanks Richard, that makes sense, I was using the passenger side one for a petty strut, and wanted to be sure before I got the drill out for the driver's side. Certain videos on YouTube have prompted my upgrade to full cage

I'll have these please!

I'm just in the throes of fitting a current Caged Academy cage to my imperial S3, and need to know 2 things if anyone can help me; How are the front 'feet' secured to the chassis? And now that cage is on the car, does anyone know the thread size of the bolts which go up above the rear struts? Cheers Les

You only need the petty strut if you intend to go sprinting/hill climbing, it adds extra strength in case of accident, but you lose passenger space, so no good for the road. We gave the bar a coat of Por15 5 years ago when I rebuilt the car, and a polish will have it all shiny again, it's in quite good nick, I'll send a couple of pics so you can see what it's like exactly. Does £75 sound fair enough?

Tell me about it lol; I've just courier'd this full cage up from Faversham! The cage needs to be fitted before the start of next season's sprinting, but I can take the track day bar off anytime, so no worries. I hadn't really thought about a price, it was more the garage space I was concerned with, would you like the petty strut aswell?

Hi James, I am soon to remove my FIA single diagonal track day roll bar, when I swap to full cage. If you're not in a rush maybe mine will sort you? Cheers Les

Just find the extra connectors and cut open the MG loom (carefully so as not to damage any wires), and follow the wires to their source (ecu, fuse box or whatever), then replicate this by adding it to your own loom. You may need to piggyback an extra fused supply wire, but without a wiring diagram couldn't say for sure. Shouldn't be too difficult

Mankee, I've managed to find three starters, but no spacer as yet. If anyone else has one spare, at least I've bumped this back to the top

Do a search online for carbon-effect vinyl, use your original guards as templates, then stick on the vinyl. You get the look and protection, but far cheaper and super-light!

Hi Mankee, I think I've got one aswell kicking about, and a couple of old starters if anyone needs some spares. Something tells me Gerry may be closer though.......