LesG
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Everything posted by LesG
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Great pics, thanks for sharing!
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Hi Richard, yep, I agree with the experimentation, but just hoped someone may know what these standard pads are as a starting point? I did my first sprint of the year at Kames on Sunday, with my revised car set-up; new front brakes, negative camber suspension, new Kumho tyres etc, and all felt well! It was a cold, dry day (6 deg, overcast, and a strong wind making it feel much colder), and although rear end grip was poor, the car was noticeably braking well on the front end! I have no idea what rear pads I have in (no markings of any sort on them), but I do know they've been in the car for about 10 years now, so probably due for renewing in any case (some crumbling of the edges evident).
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POBC! Can anyone confirm which brake pads (make and compound) are supplied with the standard two pot AP caliper please? I was told probably Ferodo DS2500, and the only numbers on the back of the pads are 'FF A16'? I need to purchase some new rear pads to compliment the improved front set-up I now have. Cheers!
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I used a 24" breaker bar to crack my nuts loose, with the car in gear, handbrake applied, and a block of wood acting against the tyre, came undone no problem. My 1/2" torque wrench is only 20" long (approx), but tightens to the correct 270nm with ease.
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I've just fitted a pair of these calipers to my car, and they came with R-clips. I would bleed both nipples to ensure there's no air in the caliper, but also there's fresh fluid coming through both sides.
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Stripping down the front of my car showed more damage from my Barbon crash than we thought, so glad I decided to do this upgrade! Should be all nice and true again for the year ahead! I’m looking forward to seeing you in the FF too!
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I'm going to do Kames and Aintree in April with XBC, then Curborough for first time L7C in May. Have you got your plans for this year finalised yet? I've contacted Jack Webb, thanks for the tip!
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Thanks Geoff!
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Cheers Nigel! I still have your speed trophies in my garage, are you ok with the bottles of wine being empty? :-)
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Yes mate, pm'd you.
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Thanks Geoff, I think upgrading to the bigger stub axles at this stage would be a good idea, and looking at the CC online parts store, I can see there is an outer bearing washer, aswell as a thin shim. I could do with an exploded build diagram to see where these parts go, but possibly the parts guy will help me here. Cheers!
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Hi POBC, has anyone upgraded their older S3 to the 2014-on front uprights? I'm doing this just now, and find on reassembly, that there is a little step sitting proud where the inner wheel bearing mounts up to. This step does not allow my disc assembly to sit flush to the upright, so it seems I have two choices; either machine this step off to replicate my original uprights, or (I think), fit the newer style wheel bearings and non-tapered stub axles? Any help/advice/ experience welcome! Cheers, Les.
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Anyone upgrading their front brake calipers? I'm looking for a pair of the current, standard two pot front calipers, to fit S3 Triumph uprights. Cheers! THANKS FOR THE REPLIES, NOW SORTED
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Great to hear Si! My 1.8 K Rob built for me, is still going strong, two years later! Long live the K!
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RJ, that's a cracking job you're doing, and if I had access to similar equipment, I might be so inclined to 'have a play' too! When I converted my car from Xflow to K Series, I didn't know about having to clearance the block to fit the starter motor, and guess when I found that out? Correct! So I just got in there with a die grinder and whittled away until the starter fit! I do love that 'Caterham' branding though!
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Simon; yep, this is exactly what I was hoping to set up, basically letting me know I'm in the powerband. If I set the 'Lo' pair to come on at 5300rpm, and the 'Hi' pair to come on at 7500rpm, the DRE automatically selects the midway point between those two settings, and that should be my torque sweet spot? There's also the 'Flsh' point I can use to come on just before the limiter, which I think is 8200, but I'll need to open the Emerald software to check. I can see some 'spirited' blats around the Lakeland fells coming soon!
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Roadsport06; yep, that sounds about right, keeping my K in its powerband is the reason I fitted these, I just need to get s rough idea about setting them up, then tweak as I go on! Having these in my eye line, rather than trying to switch between the road ahead and a Rev counter, is going to be much easier.
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This is the biggest the site tool will allow me to post. Thanks also to SimonR300, I can see some fun ahead tweaking this! The DRE has 6 led's which light up in pairs, left to right, from the 'get ready', 'get set', and 'change up now' stages. What I'm looking for when I'm sprinting, is to know that I'm in the right gear, using the best of the power available, rather than changing up too early, but protecting the engine by not overrevving it. I never look at the Rev counter (it's the original xflow version, so useless with this engine), and just listen to the engine, but there are many times, midway around a sprint course, when corners and gradients are coming at you pretty quickly, when I doubt whether I'm in the correct gear.
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Ta-dah!
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Forgot to add; I use the CC 6 speed gearbox
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Hi Jonathan, my engine was built by Rob Morley, with a spec including forged pistons, steel rods, a vhpd head overhauled and tweaked by DVA, and includes 285 cams with solid lifters. I run the 42mm Jenveys, and use a 4-2-1 SLR manifold. Don't have a clue how to upload the dyno sheet in here, but happy to mail or text it over to you? Cheers for your help so far!
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Hi all, I finally got round to installing a DRE shiftlight, which was really easy to fit, and works well, but I'm looking for some advice about setting it up correctly! I've dug out my dyno sheet, so can see where my maximum power is, but am I right in thinking I should use the rev point where my maximum torque figure is produced, as the point where I set the 'change up' lights to come on? Or do I continue revving the engine to the maximum bhp point? I run an Emerald, and should look where the soft cut is set too, to make sure I'm making the best of what I have, without unnecessarily over-revving the engine (1.8 K Series). Any advice greatly appreciated!
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I can speak from experience of using Motoscope several times, with various cars, Richard knows what he is doing. My current engine is a 1.8 K with Jenveys and Emerald, and was set up there.
