LesG
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Everything posted by LesG
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Yep, it does look like it on paper, but it does assume my little meter read accurately in the first place! To be fair; the original silencer packing was worse for wear, and there's no doubting it sounds much quieter than it did before. All in all, I'm well chuffed!
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Ok, just to update this thread; back from my first hillclimb of the year, and also the dreaded sound test by MSA scrutineer...........and only 102db! So a big thumbs-up for Acousta-fil boa!
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Ok, so to update; the Cheesman silencer was even worse at 115db, so no good for Motorsport venues. I repacked the titanium can with two and a half bags of Acousta-fil boa (basically about as much as I could fit in, leaving a bit of room for expansion once warm), and got down to around 108db, which is pretty good, but just on the limit for MSA hillclimb regs, for Roadgoing classes. Anyone know a trick to make my rev counter under read lol?
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I've just built up a lovely 1.8 K to replace my previous 1.6, and it is a cracking engine! The increase in torque feels amazing out on the road, and I'm looking forward to my first hillclimb with it next Saturday. With regards to the checking oil level, I run the CC dry sump system aswell, and have only ever used the 'top the oil up until it dumps the excess into the catch tank' method. All the other advice did little other than confuse me, so I figured wasting a bit of oil was better than er, running it dry (sorry to hear that by the way).
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I do of course, bow to Mr Mickey's experience of these things (I'm still using that bonnet I collected from you btw), however, I'm curious to know what difference repacking will make now. I do have another silencer I can use; it's a Cheesman (CSP 888/5), 700mm long, 5" diameter, and was originally for a R500 D I believe, but I repositioned the bobbin mount bracket to be able to use it on the passenger side. I just need a step-down sleeve to fit it, and I'll try that too, worth a try!
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*thumb_up*It appears that 108db is the general limit for Roadgoing hillclimb vehicles, so if I can get down to below that, then happy days. One thing is for sure, I will let you know, either way
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Yep, this silencer is mostly filled with wire mesh, and then there's a thin blanket of glass fibre mat around that, so this is probably why it's so loud, as the wire mesh can't have very good sound absorbing qualities?
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Mankee; I'll mail you a couple of pics
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Yep, the overall size of the can is what concerns me most, but if it's likely to drop to 105db with new padding, then it'll do nicely, as it is gloriously lightweight!
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Hi guys, need some advice on my exhaust please. So, I've got a repackable can on my 1.8 K, with a SLR 4-2-1 manifold (no cat), and Jenveys with Scouse air box. I measured the noise at 112db at around 4500 rpm static, which is shocking. The can is 500 mm long, 6" diameter, and has a 65mm internal perforated tube. The internal tube has wire mesh quite thickly wrapped around it, and then there is a fairly thin blanket around that. My question is; if I were to refill it according to their recommendations, with Acousta-fil boa material, am I likely to get down to around 105db, which would be the maximum allowed at a hillclimb event, or should I be looking to purchase a bigger silencer? TIA
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Stridey; thanks for the tip, I'll look into that! Steve; cheers mate! ManKee;
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And the wait was worth it; 235 bhp and 170lb/ft of torque! What's more, it sounds glorious! I'm a very, very, happy boy!
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Thanks Steve, can't wait for tomorrow!
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SM25T was just about right! Turned out the battery cable off the alternator was touching the alternator body, thereby shorting to earth! Didn't notice it straight away due to the exhaust headers in the way, but a simple tweak with a screwdriver to bend it clear and all was well! So I cranked up the oil pressure, installed spark plugs, connected HT lead on coil, and she fired up straight away! Next stop; dyno on Friday! Thanks for your suggestions guys!
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Thanks Jonathan, it's a Powervamp Red Top 20, so sealed, about 12 months old, although the car has been laid up the last 5 months with no engine in! I'll do those checks tomorrow night cheers.
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Got a bit of a head-scratcher going on, hope someone can help me out. I've got my freshly-built K series re-installed into my car, and I'm ready to crank her over to build up some oil pressure before firing her up after this major overhaul. Trouble is; I've no ignition on light, the starter doesn't crank, and the end cell of my battery gets very warm very quickly (I could hear the cell fizzing internally) Everything points to a dead short somewhere, and I've checked for any squished wires from the engine swap procedure. All fuses are good, the engine to chassis earth lead is good, the battery master switch fully operational etc. I'm a bit stumped, and I'm booked on the dyno for Friday morning! Any ideas please?
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I'll have the cam cover insert if still available? Pm sent
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There is some info in the archive about converting a MG Midget handbrake lever, which sits in the passenger footwell, close to the centre tunnel, and seemed quite easy to do. If I didn't have a friendly MOT guy who completely ignores my lack of handbrake (and doesn't even check the exhaust emission either), I would choose this conversion for my Sierra rear calipers (although they're going to be swapped for VW Golf versions eventually)
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That throttle cable bracket is different to mine, but you should be able to wriggle the fuel rail off the top of each injector once you've removed each injector clip (undo the two securing bolts as previously mentioned, and cut any cable ties off the rail), then the injectors should be accessible
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Without a doubt, the best 'free' mod I ever did was to remove the redundant engine mount bracket from the front of my K Series engine, and blank the hole in the timing cover with some spare alloy sheet. On a similar vein, swapping out the ancient XFlow radiator fan for a modern Spal version gave another 2 kilo (approx) weight saving, for almost no effort, and in my case, pennies cost.
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Simon, it's not that I didn't trust you, It's more that I couldn't remember what you said, after I thought I wouldn't be able to use the ACB10's........ Did you say less rake aswell? Anyone got a set of -0.25 ears gathering dust........?
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Rob, yes, our championship is allowing them in Roadgoing, the regs I've read stipulate the use of List 1b, and my car is 1986, so the exemption will stand. Nigel, yep, I was thinking the same sizes as you, my front wheels are 7 inch wide, and my rears 8.
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Hi guys, as the L7C championship has banned these tyres for anyone 'roadgoing', and with my championship fixtures clashing with the more Northern events of your calendar, I am currently favouring the ACB10 tyres for my car for this year (my S3 is 1986 vintage, and my championship is allowing ALL List 1b, where applicable).. So, I'm just looking for chassis set-up advice for swapping from the radial Kumho I've previously used, to these crossply Avons. Cheers, Les.
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Hi Shaun, yep, they're both scrubbed as I've used them for sprints and hillclimbs, I can get the numbers off them and send you photos if you let me know your private email? There's loads of life in them, and if weren't for the List 1C nonsense I wouldn't be selling them, I want to stay roadgoing.
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I have two pairs of 215/50/13 in super soft available, if anyone is interested
