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Bio

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Everything posted by Bio

  1. Hi Simon The silicone J hose is a pig......The internal diameter is a little small and is a very tight fit.. Try some lube of some kind....Coolant or some silicone type spray, and fit from underneath. Best of luck. John
  2. Hi Phil have you got a volt meter to check voltage or continuity of earth....or try wiring the light directly to the battery to see if it works.
  3. Could the bolt going upwards into the base of the roll bar be loose thus protruding down closer to the top of the shock, or the wrong bolt used in the first place ...should be a skinny head bolt.
  4. Hi Peter Have you also purchased the retaining clip that goes on the bottom of each spherical bearing. You may damage the old one on removal. I first removed the lower wishbone and then pressed out the old bearing useing a bench vice. John
  5. Just looked at my build manual from 1999 and it shows the rear damper mounted with the piston at the top and progressive springs with the more open coils at the top also. In your picture the spring does not seem centred on the top collar. Have you got progressive springs mounted upside down 🤔 When I fitted adjustable platforms to my Billies I seem to remember having to move the lower platform clip up to the next groove and fitting one or two spacer washers between the damper eye and Dedion. John
  6. Temp repair only....Clean as best possible when wet....use agood dab of Wicks or similar Mitre Fix (Thick super glue with a spray activator) use sray activator immediately after application ....give it another dab and then go over the top with a tank repair gue from a motor shop. This should last a few weeks. mine went the same way and I eventually replaced the tank. John
  7. Standard things.....Plugs, HT Leeds, coil leeds close to crank sensor Leeds, cracked plenum. When you check the TPS with a meter does the meter follow the throttle opening 🤔 John
  8. The metal can on the end of the fuel rail is the pressure regulator. Remove the feed connection to the fuel rail and with the ignition on in start mode the fuel pump should prime and squirt fuel out. If you have a supply to the fuel rail but nothing from in injectors as stated previously try the grey multi pin plug, this supplies a feed to the injectors and other things. John
  9. Is the fuel rail being pressured but the Injectors not opening ? There is a grey multi pin plug under the roller barrels that feed the many things. Unpug and spray clean the contacts and make sure none of the pins have pushed back. Try a little Easystart spray in the induction and if it fires it must be fuel. Good luck. John
  10. Check at normal operating temperature and allow oil to drain back into the sump. 3-5 mins should be ok. John
  11. Can only suggest local motor factors.
  12. Hi Simon Is there a spark at the plugs....If you have a spark but still no go try some easy start spray, if it then starts it must be fuel. John
  13. I mounted my remote filter on L shaped brackets bolted to the cross member that holds the steering rack. Sandwich plate outlets pointing towards rad. John
  14. Sounds like the air temperature sensor and this should measure normal outside air temperature. My sensor is mounted remotely out of the air box so should be ok to relocate to a new positin on your fabricated back plate. John
  15. Bio

    Geometry

    Hi Adam I have set up several Penn cars...Give me a ring on 07780860875 John
  16. Hi Lestyn and Mark 😶‍🌫️ Would be willing to help at home (Kings Langley) or at the Penn meet, just give me a call on 07780860875 John
  17. Chris Do you run with the foam baffle in the sump 🤔 Could this be breaking up causing oil starvation. Best to remove the foam and do the sump gasket mod. The belt,tensioners and water pump can't have done very many miles and I would expect bearing noises to be louder when cold. John
  18. Sounds like the fan is cooling the system a little early and not allowing the thermostat to open. The sensor now switching the fan is in the water rail not in the top of the rad, could this be heating up quicker than the rest of the system. John
  19. Bio

    DTH Jenvey's

    Would have thought you need to set the TPS and have a suitable map to start. John
  20. Hi Martin Please check if you should be measuring voltage or resistance (ohms) On the K R300/400 rollers the measurement is between pins 1 & 2 and is set to 0.45 ohms. This requires a test meter to be set resistance scale. The reading should go up when you open the throttle. John
  21. First balance the throttles using an airflow meter and the set idle rpm, loosen the screws that hold the TPS and rotate to achieve the correct voltage. Measure this with a meter directly on the TPS or via mapping software. Adjust idle rpm again as required and re check TPS voltage. If you need some help I have a airflow meter etc... John
  22. Hi Martin, Dissconect the throttle cable and try again, it could be that the return spring on the throttle bodies is not strong enough to overcome the drag on the cable. Did you also have to change the ignition coil set up. Do you now run wasted spark 🤔 John
  23. Don't run the cams with those high tight spots you run the risk of damaging the camshaft bearing surface. Keep on with the good work. John
  24. Hi Chris, having fun *eek* Where is the mark, on the upright or bearing side 🤔 John
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