Alastair B

When my car was DVA a few years ago on rebuild now he made a point of linishing the spark plug electrical connectors, not sure if this was to remove any oxidised layer or take down the size slightly so the connector plugs grip was not so high, thought it was for the latter.

Thanks that explains it very clearly

The easiest solution to that might be to add two diodes and move the path from the telltale lamp to earth directly to earth. (Rather than through the entire indicator system on the wrong side!) Jonathan - Any chance of a picture or sketch of this in a pre/post type arrangement? Thanks

Thanks I tried a LED in the indicator lamp position and it worked for one direction/turn only, clearly needed a new relay in the indicator circuit to make it work - now thinking this is a better solution than the illuminated toggle switch idea - but that is definitely more 'millennium falcon' GJT - yes I put an LED in the main beam bulb as well and it definitely ruined my night vision, I went back to incandescent

Has anyone tried something like this for the indicator toggle? Quite like the idea of a visual indication on the switch when activated. What installation requirements would there be e.g. a resistor in parallel (size, type?) ? https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/M2123TFG02?qs=sGAEpiMZZMumOpTNq3bZXvRXehMYP%252byo9%2flQivAszuk%3d

Try this link. https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/removal-sump-baffle-mod-required

A good friend showed me how to do this, loose primaries and then a combined movement of circular and wiggle movements combined with a firm pressure/push from the rear at the same time. Not too physical at all but a definite knack

Radtec Aluminium and there is a club discount I think, check out the discounts page first http://radtec.co.uk/products/227/Caterham-7.htm

Just done the T-COM bluetooth into some JSL Sonis 2 ear defenders (as they had yellow rims to match the car and weren't quite as attenuating as the JSL 'compact' ones), the instuctions on here can be found by using search for 'bluetooth'. They work great, very pleased. The ear defenders I got are rated as 31 SNR and they really do silence the car, quite neat though when you rev hard the mic pics up the noise and sound comes through the in ear speakers but in a subdued way. No wires, easy to manage and connect to your phone / sat nav etc. One observation, I am shorter than Garth and my head matches up to the headrest, the presence of the bluetooth device attached to the ear defender makes for me turning my head left a litle akward as it bumps into the headrest. I have to tilt head forward slightly and then turn head. Garth I think who did the build looks tall in his pictures and his head / ears seem to clear the headrest completely and so I don't think he will have experienced this. Not a big drama for occasional use.

Ian you would have been much quicker if Jonathan had simply said aptronyms

CV joints are for front wheel drive cars to accommodate steering and drive from engine, are you sure you mean CV joint?

I used a black number plate plastic screw from the inside, measure for required depth - just a slight bit less than the door width,, then saw off the piece that would be the protruding piece. The result looks fine and I have seen on other cars.

Just to keep reinforce the power of Harpic. Tried it today applied with a paint brush - kitchen scrubber might have been even better, it was great at removing the yellowing from the primaries, followed by Meguiars NXT Metal Polysh.....it came up a treat in no time at all. Harpic at £1.75 didn't exactly break the bank either.

Take a look at JDO website, a standard repair is £100 plus P&P for return postage. They charge a fixed fee for any repair, it would appear. You can call John Ostick at JDO for guidance, anticipate the conversation will be "no problem send it in and we will fix it".....Yorkshire man who knows what he is talking about if you get the picture.

JK..."What was kept from the original... face, needle and bezel?" Yes, face, needle, bezel, and case and probably much of the gearing apart from any changes for the calibration....only the die cast 4 legged structure which also attaches the 'male' threaded cable mount and associated turning mechanism.

I had to use JDO Instruments to repair my speedo recently. Please with service and turnaround time. Why did it need repairing? Well a bouncing speedo needle started the saga and I was all set to replace the speedo drive cable when the knurled nut on the back of the speedo refused to give, so what do you do, try harder....big mistake. The resultant torque from a pair of mole grips and my father-in-law counter reacting the instrument case resulted in this when opened up and photographed by JDO. JDO quoted...."We cannot believe how you managed to break the complete rear drive assembly !". It is only cheap die-cast structure and I presume riddled with cracks and porosity. Repair and a required calibration arrived with them on Thursday pm and was back with me on Tuesday, effectively their 48hr premium service which they give you for free if they are not stacked-out.

If you have a 3.92 ratio diff then it is a 24 tooth Black drive gear, for a speedo with 1000 turns/mile. I have it recorded as Finis part 6011058 on a document I have been researching and adding to

All on the site..... https://www.lotus7.club/guides/how-guides/check-oil-level-k-series-engine

Also you can help the pickup pipe perform more effectively by opening up the effective ‘sucking aperture’ by using a small metal drift and hammer to ‘petal’ shape the outer circumference, this is on DVA’a AkA oily hands webpages.

I let them drain to an old pot and just left it with the MC reservoir cap left in place. I figured the whole system was going to get bled through anyway. Don’t know if this was correct, but did no harm for me.

Instrument gauge lights and speedo are BA9S T4W, I used 5 x SMD ( 5 x LED chips) ones and they fit the gauge and the existing holders, this is for a 1999 vintage car. The 286 T5 fitting is a wedge type bulb and not suitable for my 1999 car, the BA9S has the bayonet fitting. You can simply reach behind the gauge, find the bulb bolder and withdraw while the gauge is in-situ to check which you have.

Can anyone compare any of the alternative tyres mentioned to the AO-21 with respect to dry handling?

The doors not the Perspex wind deflectors

Hi - any one have a pair of side screens suitable for a 1999 S3 imperial chassis car? Looking for reasonably good condition (or better) if possible. Thanks Alastair

Paul - sent BM regarding one of your items