brianjhall31

Well done Geoff for opening this thread. Lots of very interesting and illuminating posts. Now if there was an "Operator Conference" like the events I used to attend in my aerospace career.......this would be a definite agenda item! Is there sufficient data to create a maintenance paper on this i.e. recommended service intervals, torque pass/fail criteria, overall or replace with alternative etc?

These 2 documents provide lots of good info about positioning and use of 4 and 6 point harness. Having installed the extra belts from Caterham to modify my car to a "6 Point" (using all the mounting points installed as standard on the chassis) I can say that they are only really capable (and comfortable!) if you have Tillet or similar race shell type seats fitted. The 2 lower belts for the Caterham supplied 6 point have to route over the top of the standard (leather) seat cushion which does not achieve anywhere near the vertical tension intended for correct 6 point operation integrity. Regarding HANS I am also aware that some owners have found that their cars existing mounting points for the 2 shoulder straps do not comply with the angle and distance measurement regulations and have been obliged to modify the top chassis tubes (Arch Motors can do this) A quick view of the results in the Schroth document between wearing or not wearing a HANS in a Caterham type car involved in a front end impact is quite conclusive! As with all Safety Devices there have been lots of tests performed to ensure the best advice can be given on the equipment and installation. Given the intent of the devices, and the consequences involved, compliance is a must. seat-belt-fitting-information-2012_0.pdf BlueBook2020155-195-Safety-K.pdf

Fitted mine by making up a Tee bracket that mounts onto the 2 popper points (popper are still retained so Tonneau can be fitted). Very easy to route wires up and around the boot cover without cutting any holes. Does not interfere with anything and is visible with Half Hood fitted. Vertical height is the same as you will find on Boxter or MX5 so well in "eye line" of following drivers.

Thanks, All starts to become clearer. Nice to see you have the NRV in the pipe between the Apollo and breather on top cover. Stops all that oil draining back to the sump and no oil pressure (indicated) for several seconds on start-up!

Very interested in doing this mod! I was concerned by the earlier post that the hose that runs around the rear of the engine was deleted. I have the "submarine" mod where the ECU and Temp Gauge sensors are moved from above the exhaust manifold and repositioned to the rear RH side of the engine. The earlier post diagram showed the sensors back above the exhaust which I would consider a retrograde step. Only other observation from the photo is that this car does not have an Apollo Tank fitted. Does the effect the hose routing or layout? Is there a definitive parts list for the PRRT (genuine Rover part) and the Hose Kit (would like to go Silicon as current hoses are looking tired) Put me down for one of your through flow Thermostats please Rog!

Are you checking the quantity of lubricant with the diff fitted? If so the only method of measurement is by removing the plug at the rear face and (if nothing comes out) filling to the point where it does. I use a Machine Mart pump action: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht843-250ml-oil-can/ Usually takes only 3 or 4 pumps during my annual servicing checks to bring to correct level which means a 1 ltr bottle last a long time. If you need more than 1/2 ltr for topping up you have a seal problem.

I found the products and delivery from: www.woolies-trim.co.uk Very good. Using the tool that Softbits lent me made life much easier than the hammer and punch method. Once you have set up the dimension of the squeeze you have a really neat and secure job.

Velcro Brand Heavy Duty Stick-On Tape 1mx50mm from Screwfix £7.99. Found this works very well and can be removed without damaging paintwork.

Sorry Sprinters but the Covid-19 restrictions on Marshal number meant I couldn't attend this year. It all got a bit crazy with locals on the previous volunteers list being given priority over those from more distant areas. Different regs for sprints than circuit races where its the Trainee Marshals who have been missing out this year. Big disappointment as Wiscombe is a great venue and the Paddock location is good for meeting up during and after the event. Hope we can get back to normal next year and really glad you guys enjoyed the day!

Just put a jump lead across the fan activation switch. Confirm it is correctly wired and pulls air thru rad. Removed the fan and tested with 12v, seems pretty asthmatic for job required. Going to check the Spal specs.........

Thanks for all the good comments and advice. To clarify some of the points, currently the set up (apart from the repositioning of the temp senders) is "as delivered". Standard Rad, ECU and Thermostat etc. When running above 30 mph temp remains constant at (gauge indicated) 80 degrees. Drop below 30 mph in traffic with stop/starts and it creeps up to approx 90 degree but will come back down if forward movement can be regained and, if above 30 mph will come back to 80 degrees without fan activation. If stationary for more than a couple of minutes fan comes on (92 degrees?) and remains on (unless ambient air temp is below 15 degrees) until some forward motion can be achieved. All makes me think that the current fan has insufficient airflow to compensate for the loss of normal forward movement flow thru the rad and, on the occasion when the ambient air temp is 30+ degrees (like recently), a stop/start traffic situation will not be controllable by the current set up. In aerospace terminology we call this "coffin corner"

Whilst I have no issues with maintaining a constant 80 degrees above 30mph and during track driving sessions I am constantly worried by how quick the water temp rises when in town traffic. The fan comes on exactly when required by the thermal switch but it takes an age for it to pull the temp down again if I can't get sufficient forward motion i.e. stop/start traffic conditions. On really hot days the fan runs constantly and the water temp only comes down when forward motion above 30mph regained. Initial conclusion is that the current cooling system is insufficient to control a constant temp under the driving conditions that are more and more common today. Don't want to jump into replacing the rad unless I have to. Has anyone just upgraded the cooling fan to one with either a larger diameter or higher airflow rate? Car is a has standard R300 K Series Thermostat (temp setting and position) with the Temp sensor in the modified position (not above the exhaust manifold) I have not yet experienced and overheating issue but having the prospect is a constant concern as all my blats have to involve some time "parked" on the M4/M5 around Bristol!

Put me on the list to. How about Circuit stickers as well to show which Track Days you have attended? Here is my Castle Combe sticker which I receive as part of my membership with CCRC. I'm sure the manufacturer could make a batch for us. I can check who they are........

I'm down to marshal the Startline again so looking forward to seeing you all there. No jumping the lights!

Caterham Kid. There is a good article on this website which covers jacking the car in detail. Just go onto the home page and scroll down to "Popular Guides" and "Getting to know your Seven". Here is the link: https://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/Docs/GTKY7-1.pdf As many of the others have said the critical part of raising the car onto axle stands is to progress gradually in height i.e. 1 hole or click on the vertical adjuster (depending on axle stand model), working from the back (starting point) to the front until the minium height is reached for you to work under the car. I use a Machine Mart Low Entry Jack (same as in the Guide) which is necessary to go under the A Frame centre mounting at the rear. What is very important to bear in mind is that the Jack, in the motion of lifting the car has to be able to move on its wheels towards to fixed point (the chocked grounded wheels or axle stands) of the pivot (as the arm of the jack raises vertically it moves thru an arc away from the fixed point so its "chassis" has to move towards the pivot point to compensate) Therefore the surface that the jack is sitting on needs to be smooth enough to allow it to roll and not on any slope to have gravity affecting its movement. Once raised using this progressive method and 4 axle stands as per the guide I have found the car to be very stable, however I still place 2 old tyres which are a bit wider then me under the car before I venture there!