Alastair B

I also get a bit of a draft from the front leading edge of the sidescreen where it should be against the bodywork and I have the fixing strap mid-point on the sill and the one near the shoulder. My problem is the door has some curvature that comes from the profile near your elbow and does not allow it to fit flush to the bodywork. You might want to check that you will achieve the required result by fitting a strap before the drill comes out.

Have you tried swapping out the key fob battery to give the transmitter more power?

I would be interested to know the price for a 4-2-1 full system with cat for S3 car Thanks Alastair

SM25T - Your longer front wings you purchased, where from? Can you get these in GRP in standard Caterham colours? Thanks

Final update...garage has done pressure check...comes in at 1.3bar at idle (1.0 - 2.0 range) and 3.4bar at 2000rpm (2.3 - 3.7 range) all at 80 degrees, this is with refilled oil up to the level (and a wee bit higher - lost oil from when turbo failed) I noted on the dipstick. So the overfilling and high pressure argument won't see me any further. Still no explanation of why it failed...just one of those things. Not entirely happy with this but unless you break-down the turbo this will probably be as far as this is going to go. BTY - the cost was at £800 inc. VAT, which for a turbo job with OEM part is not bad, I like the idea of the 12month warranty on the job, so just have to get on with it and pay-up ☹️ Thanks for your ideas guys.

Likewise from the other Leicestershire folks....I can help with this if you need a pair of hands. I removed mine to fit my FIA bar, it was relatively easy...the key is using your car jack or other support to keep the de-dion tube in place and not letting drop. I found by leaving it in the right place and not moving it I could take out the dampers, and then replace, fit bottom bolt loosely first - swing up and without any alignment issues of top bolt hole which could be fiddly. As previously stated checking the slim thickness hex head bolt head is on each side securing the FIA roll bar is in place is worthwhile...this is right above the damper uppermost bolt fixing location.

Still need garage to tell me oil pressure as compared to high/low guidelines. Garage have discounted their parts and labour to a mere £800, only £160 labour! Good of them mind, as Ford Customer Services won't give me anything on their 'goodwill' programme as the car is 6 years old...never mind the turbo has only seen 35k miles. As for why turbo diesel...it was the right price at purchase (dealer special) and wife's travel to work at the time was a much longer journey. Would I go the same way now.....doubt it.

Update - garage just got back to me. They say journal bearing must have failed to let compressor move axially, but the mechanism for this they can't explain apart from "it must have been oil starvation", and the oil spilling out is from this transient event. They say there is no foreign object present in the compressor debris found. They do not consider high oil pressure to be the cause as there is an oil pressure relief valve and no warnig lights were set. I have asked them to call Ford Technical and work out why the bearing has failed as I am worried they haven't got to root cause and the next turbo could also fail. The car has only got 35k on the clock (is 6 years old), regularly serviced etc. Now for the really bad bit...this is being quoted at £946 repair! I have asked for what goodwill or dealer assistance they can give me...they are to look into this.

Thanks for this...had a look and the air filter box has a plastic mesh and wire gauze upstream and all looks intact, the garage should not have had to touch downstream of this to replace the airfilter. Originating foreign object source evidence cannot be seen, with no other debris left to view on inlet side of compressor. Thanks for the advice

Out in wife's TDCI Fiesta today and noticed whistling from the turbo. Whipped off the inlet pipe from the air filter to turbo entry to be greeted wth oil and a gnarled rotor of compressor vanes, oil also down-stream in pipe going to intercooler. ☹️ Car was serviced 120 miles ago by Ford RapidFit, so I checked the oil level...it was high and above the max mark by 7-8mm. Any turbo experts out there? Could the over-servicing have caused high oil pressure rendering the turbo bearings ineffective and letting the rotor move axially? Will be calling RapidFit on Monday and any other substantiating evidence that I could use would be most welcome.

Can anyone provide the part number for the 'T'- shape crutch strap - didn't know it exists, been thinking about putting in the extra harness myself? Also for fitting am I right in reading this thread that there are welded on tabs on the chassis rail behind the seats, that have pre-drilled holes, that with a spacer and a hole in the Ali floor allow the long bolts to secure the strap?

Spotted you driving your yellow '09 plate 7 with black noseband and bonnet stripe on M1 northbound at ~11:30am going past the Loughborough exit (J23), I was in my tin-top...I waved but you didn't see me....you then came off at East Midlands airport exit...

When you get the powder coated FIA roll bar back, I would recommend running a tap through the underside holes to clear out residue from the cleaning/powder coating process, you don't want to find this out when you have the roll bar in situ.

Well, I tried the obvious...i.e to start the engine with keyfob1 even though the red light does not flash to indicate immobilised and guess what.....the engine fires-up . Although this is clearly strange I do have 2 keyfobs which allow me to lock and unlock the car, just that one of them doesn't want to do it in the normal manner. Thanks to all for your suggestions, I'll continue to mess about with this to see if I can resolve it.

Thanks for the advice...I've followed the website advice but still not better, I have searched on the other immobiliser threads and I am going to digest these some more. I've got a rather frantic few days coming up at work so I'll post any new findings later on in the week when I have had a chance to experiment. If Mike Molloy is reading this and is able to "Schazam" an appearance all expert opinions welcome.

11884....thanks for that suggestion. I have just tried it with the key in the ignition turned to position 1 and also when not in the ignition at all, but it hasn't seemed to make a difference. Does anyone have any PDF links to the 'handbook' for the keyfobs? I have various documents (I'm the 3rd owner) but nothing on the keyfobs.

Not being very electronically minded, can anyone help me with this? Went to use keyfob 1 today, but it did not want to 'unlock' car and make red light flash, so went to back-up keyfob 2 and everythink OK. Cane back and tested voltage on keyfob1, it was down at 1.2V, so replaced with brand new battery. However keyfob 1 still doesn't want to 'unlock' the car but is quite able to 'lock' car when pressing the padlock button, so the keyfob is not completely dead. Throughout all of this keyfob2 works fine with the car's MEMS unit and allows 'lock' and 'unlock' functions. Anything obvious I am missing? . I have a 1999 Roadsport 'K' series Thanks

Yes, using wipers and headlights in morning fog for my commute to Derby from LFE, cleared up lovely for a nice blat home on the country roads.

On behalf of an ex-clubmember, please find link to trailer for sale on Pistonheads... Linky

Hi Ivor...If you have A021's on your Roadsport I would replace with the same. You'll probably get 5,000 spirited road miles out of them, but they stick so well, it's what the car deserves. I had A539's on my Roadsport before and the car's grip was transformed with the A021's. Cheapest place is probably George Polley delivered to your house, then down to Walkers Hi-Q on Narborough Road. If you pay cash, go when its quiet and the boss not around you might get them fitted to the wheels and balanced for £5 each...I did. Do replace all 4 to keep them the same on each corner.

At 4:15pm Sunday 9th August, Black with yellow FIA roll bar and yellow painted 'seven' radiator grill on Groby Road, between Leicester Park 'n Ride and Glenfield, I was in tin-top.

Bob I hope Oulton Park hasn't prompted you into this with the dreaded 'tappety noise' ! There are quite a few links you can use to bring together a picture of 'how-to'... http://www.seven-ecstasy.co.uk/Resources/apollo.pdf http://www.mycaterham.com/66828/67348.html http://rides.webshots.com/album/558752247YNbHgp I've not got round to doing mine yet, it will probably be September looking at the diary of weekend commitements. Plus of course all the other info. on BlatChat and links posted into the threads.

Spotted your 7 whilst I was driving mine back from work (Yellow Roadsport) as you came up Botcheston Road from Desford Lane.....I heard the toot

Windy Corner, I'm in Leicester Forest East about 4 miles from Caterham Midlands. Know Autospares in Earl Shilton....good local shop. I haven't got my light unit yet, I was looking at the SVC ones, but at nearly 50% of the price I will check out the Autospares ones first. Thanks for the invite to pop over, I might well do that before I get started, I will BM you to get directions if I feel unsure.

Sounds suitable....a good 'ole dose of common sense, plus if you leave enough wire to perform this op. you won't be struggling to mate connectors together in what is a very limited space. Thx