Alastair B

Can anyone comment on beam alignment of the classic car led bulbs and not dazzling oncoming drivers?

Newtons 2nd law can help you f=ma, so reduce mass by 10% keeping your tractive force the same would result in 10% more acceleration and therefore ten percent faster time yo a given speed, an approximation to your situation but will give you a guide

Dennis, I am of small stature like you (5' 5'' ish)....I can honestly say you do not need a LF, I agree with Post #9. I have a 99 car with Leather seats and find the driving position perfectly fine with normal floor height. If the car has Tilletts you absolutely do not need a LF, this will drop you further. Basically you will struggle with overall visibility on a LF car plus the lowered floor. More subjective but I also think that with your most likely smaller shoe size a LF car will impact pedal use linked to the angle your leg/foot approaches the pedals. I personally would buy the car for my needs not necessarily thinking about ease of disposal before you even have got the car. IMO a good specification, well looked and reasonably priced car after will always sell whether it has a LF or not. For you of greater importance when comparing cars is the condition of the car and specification of the items you want your car to have bearing in mind the intended use of the car.

Definitely drill the holes in the sump gasket when exposed. Do the Oily hands modification to the pickup, using suitable metal drift, create 3 indentations to circumference so that when it sits on bottom of sump there is more clearance for oil to flow to pickup tube. You should also unplug the injector ecoplug harness connector to stop fuel being sprayed into cylinders when you have the plugs out after all of that you should feel rightly proud for your 1st oil change

You passed me in my tin top at about 7:10pm presume you were off to Warks North meeting?

Hi, had a nice chat with you in the car park, might see you at Donington

Hi, waved today....you were coming in to LFE at about 12pm we were just leaving for a short run

There was a posting in the past about getting some of these made up, you never know the individual might still have some or know how to order them again? https://www.lotus7.club/forum/sale/updated-high-quality-reproduction-super-7-wheel-centre-cap-stickers You might want to move this to Wanted as well? Alastair

Have you got any of the following in your car? carpet on tunnel or rear bulkhead, mats, doors, roof, jack, tools, tyre foam, stainless wing protectors...not enough carbon (4 x wings, nose cone)? Not defending Caterham's marketing, but you can see if it could be removed or upgraded to the highest specification possible for weighing I bet it was.

That's good...did he mention the lights?

Presume you must have had electrical problems all front and rear lights were out, noticed you were tucked up against a large truck to help others drivers see you. I hope you got home safely.

BTTT Note: Short primary set-up ;

Pics sent as requested. Alastair

633 grind is 10mm lift and 264 duration...well so says the internet, which might or might not be correct.

p.mole1, I also initially struggled with getting the collector onto the pipes until an experienced friend helped me. He simply held the collector with one arm and whilst pushing firmly with the other arm, 'wiggled / oscillated' in multiple directions the whole collector onto the 4 x primaries (which were securely fastened to head to provide resistance). The collector basically 'crept' onto the primaries, it went on in about 3 minutes.

I recall Garnet paper was recommended as an appropriate type of abrasive medium, I think related to having less of a propensity to contaminate the cast iron disc...this might not be correct?

Alan - Pedant moment from me,.......Nick Bassett wasn't the person who informed me to use silicone copper gasket maker to the primaries to collector in the thread I refer to, it was Smithy77, I have copied the posting below that refers. I'm sure Nick does offer this advice but it was not given in the thread I was referring to, as my problem was primary to collector interface not primary to head interface. It may also work for Smithy77, it just didn't help me in the end. Smithy77 - Hampshire Offline member since: 25/09/2014 #8 Posted: 31st Aug 2016 - 12:52 Did you use cooper RTV silicone to seal the joints? When I use this stuff the exhaust slips together like a slippery salmon (and comes apart just as easy). No bashing of the exhaust with a hammer required! Just some twisting and wiggling

I did this job a few months ago and wrote up a posting on the job.. https://www.lotus7.club/comment/2194486#comment-2194486 You do not need any sealant on the primaries to collector, the fit is a light interference and does not need anything else. I struggled with getting the collector onto the pipes until an experienced friend helped me. He simply held the collector and whilst pushing firmly, 'wiggled' in multiple directions the can onto the primaries (which were not securely fastened). The collector basically 'crept' onto the primaries, it went on in about 3 minutes.....no bashing required.

BTTT Still for sale

Sent you email with pics. Came off 1.6k, imperial chassis, S3, 1999 car with EU2 Alastair

Selling exhaust manifold (4-1) short primaries and collector with cat after fitting Powerspeed system. Manifold has hole for lambda sensor Collector has catalytic converter and is in good condition overall. Fitted with Aluminum heat-shield. There is some impact damage to exit pipe from road debris so not perfect, can provide photos of both parts on request, please BM me. Will split parts if requested Short Primaries £30 Collector with Cat / Heat-shield £50 Collection from Leicester area, LE3

We passed going over the M1 on our blats, gave you a few flashes and a wave

OK, all now done and sorted. First tried Copper RTV, wished I hadn't, just made the whole assembly process more difficult by putting another substance into the tight fit which it didn't need, the Powerspeed light interference fit is sufficient alone. Called in a friend, multiple Caterham owner and knows 4-2-1 systems well. His method worked a treat. Ensure no burrs by lightly emery the primaries lip edges. Aligned the primaries loose to get them to engage the collector. Then tightened the primary pipes securing nuts to create some resistance. Then by slowly holding the rear of the silencer articulate in a series of small up/down/side to side motions whilst pushing reasonably hard from the rear, the silencer 'crawls' forward onto the primaries...only took 10 minutes if that. Very appreciative of his help. So thanks for all the advice, I can now go out tomorrow and give it a good blat!

James, you've presumed the final drive ratio has changed, this indeed might be correct, but it could also be the driven gear (to the speedo cable) from the gearbox could be the wrong one as there are different versions with different numbers of teeth. A search of the archives will find topics about this. You might be able to compensate for your current final drive ratio with a new speedo drive gear.

Will give it a go. So you are twisting each primary, one at a time but working all 4 sequentially, whilst pushing the collector onto the primary, is this right? Previously bashed it together, rubber mallet on rear of can....it was easier, but not very easy the first time.