John Cousins

A couple of months later I can report that using a volunteer brake pedal operator to assist with bleeding the brakes was the method that resolved the issue. I didn't notice large air bubbles being expelled but a couple of rounds on the two rear calipers soon restored a familiar brake pedal feel.

Thanks for all the advice - I'll feedback on how I get on....

Thanks. I did originally bleed the brakes, operate the brake pedal, adjust the handbrake and then operate the handbrake which is set at three clicks. I will try a few handbrake cycles and proceed from there....

Having issues bleeding the standard brakes on my 2005 s3 Roadsport. I replaced the rear discs and calipers and fitted flexible rear brakes hoses. Used an eezibleed kit. Pedal is not firm. A short test drive confirmed the brake pedal is too soft. A little research suggests I could try removing the calipers from the ears and lift higher than the reservoir (using a piece of wood between the pads). I also have a rubber mallet for some gentle tapping. Any other suggestions appreciated.

Does anyone have experience of the Toyo Proxes TR1?

Hi - thinking about options to replace all 5 tyres on my 2005 Roadsport. (The spare looks fine but at 15 years old is due (overdue) replacement:-)). The other tyres have plenty of tread and are about 7-8 years old. Currently fitted with the now obsolete CR500. 195/45 R15 78V. Would it be wise to replace the tyres given the age? A quick search referenced Uniroyal Rain Expert 3 tyres. They would be for road use only. Thoughts / options please....

While waiting for the ebay delivery I decided to 'operate' on the dodgy bulb holder. I carefully snipped it partially open and relocated the contacts. I then inserted the bulb and used electrical tape to repair the 'wound'. So far so good.

Thanks for the feedback but I have ordered something from eBay that I hope will work with a standard bulb.

Does anyone know where I can source the 5w repeater indicator bulb holder as used on my 2005 Roadsport? Ebay has various push in bulb holders but a like for like replacement would be good.

Before I commence tightening the sump bolts can I confirm I just work in a circle tightening diagonally opposite bolts? (The guide mentions a diagram but I couldn't see it on my phone or laptop).

Thanks for the feedback - I plan to remove the foam and have a modified new sump gasket. Think I will follow the alcester sevens document and use hylomar blue on the Apollo plug and reuse the sump plug washer with a smear of hylomar blue. (Removing the Apollo Tank plug was difficult - used a 32mm cycle spanner to hold the tank while releasing the plug carefully with a breaker bar!)

In the process of changing the oil (and removing the foam sump baffle). The sump plug has a non copper washer and the Apollo Tank plug has a copper washer. I had sourced a copper washer from Caterhamparts for the sump plug and I have read people use hylomar blue on the seat of the Apollo Tank plug rather than a washer. In summary should I be ok to use a new copper washer on the sump plug and just hylomar blue on the Apollo Tank plug?

Thanks - I sourced this from Chris at Redline. When I compared to previous posts that was my thought...

Based on the gasket picture do I need to drill any additional holes when discarding the foam baffle?

Thanks for the feedback. I did operate the brake pedal a few times before adjusting the hand brake and setting it to 3 clicks. Next job is oil change. Was going to replace the foam baffle but some reading has me considering drilling a couple of extra holes in the new gasket and dispensing with the foam....