John Cousins
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Everything posted by John Cousins
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Bleeding brakes - new rear calipers and new flexible hoses
John Cousins replied to John Cousins's topic in TechTalk
A couple of months later I can report that using a volunteer brake pedal operator to assist with bleeding the brakes was the method that resolved the issue. I didn't notice large air bubbles being expelled but a couple of rounds on the two rear calipers soon restored a familiar brake pedal feel. -
Bleeding brakes - new rear calipers and new flexible hoses
John Cousins replied to John Cousins's topic in TechTalk
Thanks for all the advice - I'll feedback on how I get on.... -
Bleeding brakes - new rear calipers and new flexible hoses
John Cousins replied to John Cousins's topic in TechTalk
Thanks. I did originally bleed the brakes, operate the brake pedal, adjust the handbrake and then operate the handbrake which is set at three clicks. I will try a few handbrake cycles and proceed from there.... -
Having issues bleeding the standard brakes on my 2005 s3 Roadsport. I replaced the rear discs and calipers and fitted flexible rear brakes hoses. Used an eezibleed kit. Pedal is not firm. A short test drive confirmed the brake pedal is too soft. A little research suggests I could try removing the calipers from the ears and lift higher than the reservoir (using a piece of wood between the pads). I also have a rubber mallet for some gentle tapping. Any other suggestions appreciated.
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Does anyone have experience of the Toyo Proxes TR1?
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Hi - thinking about options to replace all 5 tyres on my 2005 Roadsport. (The spare looks fine but at 15 years old is due (overdue) replacement:-)). The other tyres have plenty of tread and are about 7-8 years old. Currently fitted with the now obsolete CR500. 195/45 R15 78V. Would it be wise to replace the tyres given the age? A quick search referenced Uniroyal Rain Expert 3 tyres. They would be for road use only. Thoughts / options please....
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While waiting for the ebay delivery I decided to 'operate' on the dodgy bulb holder. I carefully snipped it partially open and relocated the contacts. I then inserted the bulb and used electrical tape to repair the 'wound'. So far so good.
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Thanks for the feedback but I have ordered something from eBay that I hope will work with a standard bulb.
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Does anyone know where I can source the 5w repeater indicator bulb holder as used on my 2005 Roadsport? Ebay has various push in bulb holders but a like for like replacement would be good.
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Before I commence tightening the sump bolts can I confirm I just work in a circle tightening diagonally opposite bolts? (The guide mentions a diagram but I couldn't see it on my phone or laptop).
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Thanks for the feedback - I plan to remove the foam and have a modified new sump gasket. Think I will follow the alcester sevens document and use hylomar blue on the Apollo plug and reuse the sump plug washer with a smear of hylomar blue. (Removing the Apollo Tank plug was difficult - used a 32mm cycle spanner to hold the tank while releasing the plug carefully with a breaker bar!)
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In the process of changing the oil (and removing the foam sump baffle). The sump plug has a non copper washer and the Apollo Tank plug has a copper washer. I had sourced a copper washer from Caterhamparts for the sump plug and I have read people use hylomar blue on the seat of the Apollo Tank plug rather than a washer. In summary should I be ok to use a new copper washer on the sump plug and just hylomar blue on the Apollo Tank plug?
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Thanks - I sourced this from Chris at Redline. When I compared to previous posts that was my thought...
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Based on the gasket picture do I need to drill any additional holes when discarding the foam baffle?
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Thanks for the feedback. I did operate the brake pedal a few times before adjusting the hand brake and setting it to 3 clicks. Next job is oil change. Was going to replace the foam baffle but some reading has me considering drilling a couple of extra holes in the new gasket and dispensing with the foam....
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Yes I did need to wind back the pistons on the new calipers.
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Hi - I've been using an eezibleed kit to bleed the brakes having replaced the rear calipers and fitted flexible brake hoses. I went round the calipers twice and the process seemed to be working ok. I haven't touched the handbrake. I used a stick to depress the foot brake a few times and the pedal was very easy to depress. I checked the rear calipers and tried to rotate the hub and disc which seems so tight I can't rotate them! When I fitted the new calipers and pads the fit with snug over the new discs but I assumed this was due to everything being new. Not sure how to proceed...
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I checked the new rear calipers and the original front calipers (2005 Roadsport) with 10mm and 11mm spanners and the fit doesn't seem right. I think when I built it (15 years ago now!) and was bleeding the brakes I had to use an imperial spanner on the bleed nipples. Can't find that spanner so have ordered a small set. (Only relatively recently that I decided I could do much of the servicing myself!).
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I think the bleed nipples have an imperial size nut - please will someone confirm the size?
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Thanks for the updates / advice. Happy to report the new calipers are fitted and the hand brake cables reattached. I have reset the pair of knurled adjuster wheels to roughly where they were. Having replaced the rear brake hoses with flexible versions my next step is to bleed the brakes. Once that is done I will revisit the handbrake adjustment.
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You're right John it was much simpler!
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Knurled wheels unwound almost back to the factory - gentle easing with a screwdriver to get more inner cable and nearside cable disconnected. Offside next same method hopefully.....
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Thanks - I've loosened them quite a bit but not yet enough as still can't unhook the cable. Will try again after a cup of tea....
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Is it a case of slackening the adjuster knurled nut near the diff on the nearside?
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I'm sure this is a very basic question but... I am replacing the rear calipers on my 2005 Roadsport. How do I disconnect the handbrake cable from the calipers? Thanks...
