jonboylaw

Just completed my Megajolt install on the Xflow and now looking for some maps to play about with. The longest job was making up the wiring loom, but it all went together well in the end, worked 1st time 😬 😬 *thumbup* Engine Spec: AX block bored to 1800cc, Roger King built, big valves, extensively ported, Steel top end, Standard, tuftrided crank. Rev Limit 7200 Rpm, Twin 40's. Anyone got a suitable ignition map? I have a couple of base maps, one standard type map and one for a tuned xflow, but not sure of the spec of the engine this came off. Cheers, Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

If are an Option 3 user on BT and you sign up for BT's vision package, they send you a digi box and two 100Mbps Powerline modems and all the cables you need for free... :) You do not have to pay anything (or at least I have not) Jon Edited for clarity ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob. Edited by - jonboylaw on 7 Jul 2008 19:50:08

Alex, I contacted some bloke on E-bay that does x-flow engine bolt kits, told him I just wanted the water pump and alternator bolts so he has sent them out £7.99 inclusive of postage, not the cheapest but gives me new bolts to use for piece of mind. The bracket came together really well. Once the bolts are here and when I am back from a week in Turkey, I will have the Megajolt installed and get it set up. If you fancy a drive over to Fife you would be most welcome to see it all, including my Ford rear axle, custom A frame and all the other stuff I have been doing. Back a week on Wed. Now I just have to find someone capable of Tuning the Webbers in the local area... Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

It is an AX block that Roger built a few years ago. I will try with the sizes Roger recommended first, but thanks for the heads up Peter. Jon

Hi Roger, Thanks for your help. Regards, Jonathan

Does anyone have the sizes of the waterpump bolts on a crossflow? I just sheared one whilst fitting a bracket for my megajolt set up :( Jon

Coli9n, Electron migration of the copper interconnect on CMOS is much more of a problem above 115c, so all those uC and processors do not like it hot.. BiPolar power transitors are much hardier so yes 150c may be acceptable. I used to like the reverse polarity electrolytic capacitors on the bench supply, boy they make a pop Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

Also check that your throttle cable is adjusted correctly, mine was ticking over nicely but then the revs started to rise to almost 200 rpm if I blipped the throttle, basically the cable was too tight and the throttle spring could not close the butterflies... You may have a kink or tight cable that slackens off a bit when warm. Just a thought. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

Yikes, that is not what our QA guys tell us... anything over 115c Junction temp in a fine Geo (<130nm) CMOS is definitely a No No for prolonged life... or are we talking power transistors here ? Just buy the correct adapter, it will save you the risk of letting the smoke out your Camcorder! Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

Mine is a 1992 LA chassis and was fitted with the uprated toplink suspension. This basically adds an extra link running forward to a bolt on mounting behind there the ARB clamps are, the skin needs to be cut to accept this arrangement. It is not a full blown wishbone set up (although I have acquired a de-dion front end and you can just use the upper wishbone if you want). The advantage is that it provide better location and less movement of the suspension. The brackets are still available from caterham I believe. Phil's homepage tells all about it here Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

Just looked on mine and the leads from the dizzy are red and black.. but try the black to neg on the coil and white to +. The tacho should connect to the +ve Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

That is the point Cagey, it removes the Alu Oxide (this is the Anodizing) and takes it back to the bare alu, you just need to keep an eye on it an wash it in cold water as soon as it is shiny.. also need to agitate the tank a bit as well to remove the scum build up on the alloy. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

I suffer the same problem, again English rear end. I have just fitted 150 lb rears (Gaz coil overs) and trimmed the lip on the rear arches with a dremmel type tool. Gaz do a live axle kit for £300 for front and rears, you can spec the spring rate you want as well (300/150 in my case). Look on ebay for a dealer there or I can dig out the receipt I have. They include a c-spanner with them. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

I have a feeling caustic soda works, but you may need to put it into a warm solution, then put it in to a pan of boiling water with food dye to change the colour... Search the web for home anodising.. Try here Edited for Web link & Typo: Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob. Edited by - jonboylaw on 12 Jun 2008 15:03:35 Edited by - jonboylaw on 12 Jun 2008 15:04:01

Glad you got it working ok. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

Spoke to Redline today and they have them in stock for the Princely sum of less than £15... *thumbup* 😬 Save butchering Belts and shoes :) I did not know horses had shops, I guess that is New Market... 😬 😬 Jon Edited for minor humour content ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob. Edited by - jonboylaw on 27 May 2008 20:42:36

Robin, Good news, it is always something so silly.... Jonathan ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

Andy, I think I have the same pump as you and when my pump is working I get a very loud ticking (actually more of a chugging), changing pitch after a few seconds as the pressure stabilizes, once the engine is running, my induction and exhaust kind of cover the noise of the pump. It has been like this for 3 years of ownership so I am not particularly concerned, I think it is a case of the mounting. If you are concerned then check eBay for pump mounting kits, also crimp the fuel inlet pipe before disconnecting the inlet (from the tank side) to minimise spillage, do the same for the output (towards the carbs), try to crimp as close to the pump as you can. If you cant crimp them, then have someone undo them and as soon as they are loose (one at a time), lift them above the fuel tank height, also the cap of a BIC biro plugs the pipe nicely I believe. Edited for Chuggingness. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob. Edited by - jonboylaw on 27 May 2008 16:25:24

you need to swap the outer wires over so that the middle wire effectively reads the other way... a dead simple fix, 5 mins with a soldering iron or cut and crimp the connector wires. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

Not really sure what to call it, but the flexible bracket that the end of the handbrake cable (with the adjuster) and the push rod to the off-side drum connect to has started to pull away from the axle. The Flexi bit looks like rubber or leather. Not sure where the hell to source a replacement. Any ideas? Photo here Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

to the same offset Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

To quote an 80's pop singer... "Hammer Time" 😬 Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

I also would be interested to know. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

No real opinions, just coppa-slip the backs and bed them in well before pushing them. Might be a good time to change the fluid whilst you are at it. I am not an expert, but have a friend who re-sells pads and disks. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob.

I seem to remember being advised to change the coil every couple of years by the nice AA man who got me going again... I have given up on this and am going to Megajolt now.. 😬 Good luck and hope is solves the problems. Edit: It would be worthwhile changing it in any case so you now know how old the coil is. It is not a high cost item so part of a standard overhaul. Jon ----------------------------------- Ital or Ford... the choice is yours.... Hmmm, I'll have the ford please Bob. Edited by - jonboylaw on 19 May 2008 23:50:38