Tin Man

Hi Unclefester I am using the Pace system with the Brise kidney tank. I use a vacuum pump to drain the tank and I have put a rubber plug on the second cam cover breather to seal it. I am going to take my sump over to an engineering shop to see if a drain plug can be fitted. I found it very surprising to see how much oil is left in the sump when carrying out an oil change.

Hi Unclefester I run one pipe to the cam cover & the other to the catch tank which is vented with a piece of tube from the outlet. I am also considering having a drain plug fitted to the sump as I have found that around 2.5Ltrs of oil is left in the sump after draining the tank! I have drained this by undoing one of the oil pickup pipes; this is a fiddly job and very easy to strip the thread. As a result, I think a drain plug would a much better solution. The other option is to crank the engine over and pump the oil out via the pickup pipes. It would of interest to know what other people do. Regards John

Thanks for the help. Connectors ordered from Maplins. Regards. John

I have broken the grey & blue wire which connects to the ECU. What is the best way to make a new joint and how do I remove the wire from the back of the ECU? Thank you Regards John

I have just bought some from this company. They will supply the two moulded heater hose separately if you phone them. http://www.sfsperformance.co.uk/ Regards John

I drive my 7 throughout the winter, wash of on return and store in my Carcoon It takes less than 5 minutes to unzip the Carcoon and take the 7 out. A car will still corrode in a garage because the moisture in the air will reach the due point and any salt on the car will react. In my opion, the Carcoon was the best rust prevention I purchased. Regards John

Store the car in a Carccon is a very good way to prevent corrosion. Regards John

Thanks for the info. Mark I could not get your link to work. Regards John

Does anyone know were I can purchase silicone heater hoses. See link below. here Thanks

Hi Steve I am having the same problem with my engine 190/200bhp which has a Scholar block. I have the Pace D/S system with the Brise tank mounted in front of the cam cover. The engine was re-built due to very high oil consumption. To date I have run just over 1,200 miles including the trackday at Combe, after running in on mineral oil (1.000 miles). Over 10 ltrs of oil have now been poured into the tank! Therefore, this has not cured the problem with the oil consumption. Furthermore, my cooling system is over-pressurising too. I can find no leaks in the system therefore, I have concluded that the air is entering the system via the head gasket under the compression cycle of the engine. The oil usage is a total mystery! To conclude, it would appear that we both have signs of early head gasket failure. Regards John

Hi Seasider Is the bottom of the radiator & J hose getting hot? if not, airlock. Is the thermostat fitted the correct way around? Regards John

For safety, I always use my headlights during the day when driving my 7. This was advised by Hugh at Cadence many years ago. John

Hi Skydragon I found easier to remove the seals swith a small flat screwdiver. I pushed the screwdriver under the lip of the seal between the cam shaft & used my finger to lever the scewdriver against upwards; this causes to cam seal to turn and come out. Be very carefull not to scratch the camshaft. I used a 30mm socket to drift the new seals in. Hope this helps Regards John

Stuart YHM Regards John

Thank you Regards John

My wife has just collected my sump pan from the engineer's. I needed a timesert fitted as I stripped the thread from the bell housing to the sump pan. In addition I though it would be a good idea to fit the timeserts to the M5 oil pickup pipes as these are very easy to cross thread when fitting. I noticed that they have drilled right through into the sump to fit the inserts. As a result, oil will now be able to leak through the bolts. I can only assume the best option will be to use a Loktite thread sealant to stop this. If so, can anyone advise which sealant I need. The other alternative is to take the sump back & get them to weld up the holes, but I assume the weld will fill in the holes. Does anyone have any idea what would be the best solution? Thank you Regards John

Invest in a Carcoon or similar *thumbup* Regards John

Found a good local engineering company who will fit the Timeserts for me. Thanks for the advice. Regards John

Didn't have my brain in gear yesterday after a long day with the spanners. I can drop the sump. The Timesert looks the best option, does anyone know what size I would require? Thank you Regards John

Does this mean that I will nned to take the engine out again *mad* Regards John

Finished re-fitting the engine today on my K series with the Pace dry sump pan. When torquing the bots up I found that I had stripped the thead on the lower bell housing to sump bolt (M10 x 55 I think) 😳 😳 😳 Any ideas on the best solution 🤔 Thank you Regards John Edited by - tin man on 30 Aug 2010 17:44:25

Thanks Tony I do have the Magneton starter, 11 years old now I just removed the two screws and it came apart. Regards John

As I have the engine out at the moment, I thought I would clean & re-grease the solenoid. I did not make a note of the connections 😳, therefore can anyone confirm that the thick red wire to the battery connects the the solenoid terminal maked 50. Thank you Regards John

My radiator has developed a leak around the outlet of the bottom hose. Can anyone advise when I can get this repaired. Thank you Regards John

Ordered from Ebay Thanks